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Dilema time,
Whilst i enjoy using the 950 in L & M bluefin housing and fairly happy with the results, I can't help but wonder what sort of improvement i could acheive with HD. I like the size of the 950 housing as its manageable on day/weekend dives from our club boat. I've seen the size of the FX1 housings and for me they are bordering on impracticle. Maybe the answer is the FX7?
Dilema time,
Whilst i enjoy using the 950 in L & M bluefin housing and fairly happy with the results, I can't help but wonder what sort of improvement i could acheive with HD. I like the size of the 950 housing as its manageable on day/weekend dives from our club boat. I've seen the size of the FX1 housings and for me they are bordering on impracticle. Maybe the answer is the FX7?
I moved from a TRV to HDV with the HC3 (I also have an FX-1) and went with the HC3 for the size/portability issue myself. Real big jump from the DV
Of course we are always chasing technology, and there will probably be full 1080p in a camera the size of your palm (usually that happens, the tech change, the day after I buy something 
) but kidding aside, the HDV does a nice job and the HC3 is pretty solid - obviously not the same as an FX-1 or Z-1, but very usable and very portable. I know Canon came out with the HV10 which is small, and there is an Ikelite housing available but I would guess there would bee others coming.
The FX-7 (have not handled it) is 25% smaller/40% lighter but there is alot more detail discussions in the above thread at:
Hi Johnny Boy
There is 2 possible answer to that question, yes or no
I my opinion, you are the only one, who can answer that question for yourself.
It all depends upon what you want to do with your footage.
I am shooting with the PD-170, which is a standard DVcam (although a very good one), and I plan to wait. Why ?
Simply because my focus is on making good stories, and try to make money from them by selling the finished product.
And as long as there is no effective way of destributing films in HD, and the number of people wich have HD ready TV's still are low (although rising at a fast pace), there is no real argument to switch to HD yet
My PD-170 is far superior in low light, compared to the HDV cameras available at the moment, and low light performance is a top priority here in Denmark 
If you ask me, the only parameter to justify switching to HDV at the moment, is if you plan to film to build a stock library to sell from.
i think for certain things going from the 950 to the HC3 would be a step down. Manual white balance and low light capability come to mind.
However, as you mention, the FX1 is rather large for weekend outings so the HC3 would be better for that.
I think i would wait until we get some solid feedback on the FX7 before going that route, Ron Rosa has one and should get a housing for it soon.
The link Drew mentioned is a good one for info on that cam
i think for certain things going from the 950 to the HC3 would be a step down. Manual white balance and low light capability come to mind.
Mike, FWIW the HC3 has a Manual White balance control, just compared it to my FX-1 and it seems to be the same in terms of what can be done (but it was just a quick look, did not do a full A/B). The HC3 is suppossed to be 5 lux while the 950 is 4 Lux (though one site said 7 lux) and the FX-1 3 lux. But sometimes there is conflicting info, lots of lux And I never assume the rated lux is practical lux anyway.
The HC3 does have some noise/grain in dark places underwater, but for alot of shooting it did not have any objectionable noise/grain. Above water did a nice job in pretty low light situations.
Not trying to say that it is going to be a pro camera, but for what it is I think there is a bit more than what first meets the eye.
The TRV 950 has a minimum alumination of 7lux (F1.6)
And thats a 3lux diff to the FX7... Apparently.
Dive safe
DeanB
HC3 has MWB, but accessing it underwater is the problem. There is no external 1 push button. You have to use the touch screen which takes around 5 total pushes.
HC3 has MWB, but accessing it underwater is the problem. There is no external 1 push button. You have to use the touch screen which takes around 5 total pushes.
The one push auto white balance requires the menus, the manual white balance does not - there is a roller control that can be used to change four different settings, including white balance
I think of the one push button more of the auto type as oppossed to being able to manually adjust the white balance.
Thanks for all the replies guys, and it's interesting to here your views. I think for me i will wait for the FX7 to be become established. Wait for housings to appear etc... For me i, having the ability with the 950 to adjust the exposure and gain control and also shutter speed i want that same flexibility but in HD. When i began my search for my first video system i would have preferred a VX2100 in an amphibico, but the housing was discontinued at that stage. The housing wasn't too large and as skawdiver points outs. it's great for low light. My diving is 90% in the UK on dark wrecks and some scenic stuff. i dont intend to sell my work or build up a library. I just like good quaility gear!
The one push auto white balance requires the menus, the manual white balance does not - there is a roller control that can be used to change four different settings, including white balance
I think of the one push button more of the auto type as oppossed to being able to manually adjust the white balance.
You are referring to White Balance Shift vs Manual White Balance; I find I have to use both. If the white balance is not somehwat close to correct, the white balance shift (roller control) is useless; it will not allow you to take a cold white balance and make it warm. Instead I use the manual white balance (one touch) to get the white balance close to correct, and then use the roller for a particualr scene color. This allows me to make the reef shots look a bit cooler and the wide angle ocean water shots a bit warmer, using the same manual setting.
Ryan
You are referring to White Balance Shift vs Manual White Balance; I find I have to use both. If the white balance is not somehwat close to correct, the white balance shift (roller control) is useless; it will not allow you to take a cold white balance and make it warm. Instead I use the manual white balance (one touch) to get the white balance close to correct, and then use the roller for a particualr scene color. This allows me to make the reef shots look a bit cooler and the wide angle ocean water shots a bit warmer, using the same manual setting.
Ryan
Good point, had my head wrpped around it differently
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