I think in any situation where one has a lens slower than 2.8, one is going to start having problems with autofocus using teleconvertors underwater; due to the resulting 1-2 stop loss of maximum aperture. It's probably a problem that's independant of the lens type, brand or focal length.
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10.5mm FE + Teleconverter
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I think in any situation where one has a lens slower than 2.8, one is going to start having problems with autofocus using teleconvertors underwater; due to the resulting 1-2 stop loss of maximum aperture. It's probably a problem that's independant of the lens type, brand or focal length.
good point loftus... the 2x TC results in a 2 stop loss while the 1.4x TC is only one stop.
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I dont know if this has been addressed. For a nikon digital setup in an aquatica housing, do i need any port extentions with the 1.4 teleconverter and the 10.5 lens
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I dont know if this has been addressed. For a nikon digital setup in an aquatica housing, do i need any port extentions with the 1.4 teleconverter and the 10.5 lens
No, you shouldn't need an extension. I believe the whole concept of this setup (and i may be wrong...) is to get the lens closer to the dome port because it can practically focus on the dome to begin with (i believe...).
With the massive view of the 10.5, and without the TC, and with the space between the front of the lens and the dome, one can't make a smallish object too large in frame even if it's practially touching the dome.
With the TC, the minimum focus distance (measured from the sensor) remains the same, but the front of the lens is closer to the dome and the field of view is smaller, which increases your reproduction ratio enabling you to shoot small stuff while retaining a super wide angle field of view. hence the oxymoronic term 'macro wideangle'.
It does sound like to do this you need to get the dome dangerously close to the object/creature and I'm sure lighting that is a nightmare too. (someone correct me if i'm wrong...)
Cheers,
Chris
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I use my combination behind a smaller dome, which is further away from the camera than a standard dome. This makes it easier to light very close subjects - which is difficult with big domes.
Alex
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I wonder... did anyone try a 10.5 + tele converter behind an ikelite dome port? which one do you think will fit this combination?
Lens ports:
#5503.15 Lens length less than 2.5" (6.3 cm)
#5503.... Lens length less than 3" (7.6cm)
#5503.50 Lens length less than 4" (10.1cm)
#5503.55 Lens length less than 4.5" (11.4cm)
#5503.80 Lens length less than 5" (12.7cm)
#5503.85 Lens length less than 6" (15.2cm)
The 10.5 mm is 62.5 mm long, so add the convertorlength:
Tamron 2x = 43,5 mm
Soligor 1,7x = 19 mm
Kenko 1,5x = 18 mm
Tamron 1,4x = 19 mm
Looks like you need at least a #5503.50 port.
Grrrr, I own the first two ports and the 8" #5510.10 superwide, and offcourse none off them will fit. I will just forget the TC's for a while and stick to my bare 10.5 and 15 prime's.
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I am still trying to figure out what teleconverter to buy.
Anybody has experience with theese:
Kenko 1.5 SHQ
Kenko 1.4 PRO 300 DG
Tamron 1.4 - as far as I read does not do correct messuring
I would realy apreciate some help with choosing the one, that fits the lens. As we do not have any local stores where I could try it out, I have to order it. Honestly, I have never had any TC in my hands, so I can not imagine where the problem might be...
Kenko PRO 300 DG is supposed to have very good optics. Anyone tried it?
The description of every converter says it only works correctly with lenses longer than 100mm. This is not right, of course, but nobody here has any experience with using it with FE.
Please help.
Martin
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I have the Kenko, it works fine with the 10.5. I have not compared it to others.
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I have a Kenko 1.5x too. There is a mechanical fit issue with some TCs and the fisheye.
Alex