Not Totally Happy

Check out the link - it will take about 10 to 15 minutes to load so be patient;

http://deepblueimages.net/Donga/Greens%20Pool_0001.wmv

Now tell me what's wrong with it? Is it;

1. My computer settings and how I save it with Windows Movie Maker - it asks you how you want to save it?

2. Is it just WMM itself?

3. Is it Windows XP?

4. Should I have saved it to DVD and then it would be better?

5. Is it my settings on my computer screen?

6. Is my computer too old?

7. How do I get more clarity when it is finished and I want to save it?

Well danytink thanks for that and welcome to the forum.

Looks like you are just starting out there.

First of all you need to keep the camera still...I got dizzy watching that clip

Keep the bubbles off the lens as well.

Windows Movie Maker is like using powerpoint or word to make a brochure instead of Adobe Photoshop.

I would look around for a better video editor, there are lots of different ones out there and there are lots of information on this site about them. Do a search in the video section and see what you find on things like that and compression for the web and stuff.

If you cannot find what you are after then ask here again and we will see if we can point you in the right direction.

Cheers

Wags

Hi, and welcome....

I'd start out with pinnacle for editing, it's cheap and has scene selection when importing, and has some nice effects for titles and other bits. Cheap too. For the specs of what you need on a computer. I have edited standard DV on a laptop with i think it was 768mb, and a 60gb internal HDD. It wasnt fast, but not slow either. unless your comp is majorly old i wouldn't worry about it. The best thing you can do with video is get out there and shoot something, even if its on land, get used to holding it steady and learn what your camera is good and bad at.

Wags.... They use Quark or Illustrator to make brochures, because it makes vector based graphics. A useful tip for editing too, if you have a logo in an eps format you can resize it to whatever you like without loss. I'll stop being a geek now....

Simon

Thanks for the tips - I am a bit wobbly because I am a freediver. The wobbling is me flailing for air most of the time.

I'd start out with pinnacle for editing, it's cheap and has scene selection when importing, and has some nice effects for titles and other bits.

So how is this different from WMM - it has this stuff too?

When I look at my finished product on my computer it just doesn't look as good as some of the film that can be viewed online?

I notice that computers take the shine off a video? Would it be better to save it to DVD?

Hi again,

What camera are you using?

For the editing software, go to their sites and have a look, get a free trial download of Premeire Pro & Elements. Try Canopus Edius also. I'm not sure if pinnacle have trial versions available.

WMM - i've used it once, for about 5 minutes then i deleted it, this was a long time ago so i don't know much about it. I dont know of anyone else who uses it.

Saving to DVD from the computer VS. saving to AVI file from the computer, the AVI will be better as the DVD footage is compressed, but not many people would notice that. The other Video 'dudes' know a lot more about the different formats than i do. wmv is very compressed though.

Do you have a link to a film you think looks good online, then we know what you're aiming for and can maybe try to help you get there.

I'm downloading your video now... 18minutes to go! I'll add more after i've had a look.

OK, viewed it now.

How experienced are you at freediving? If you feel comfortable you might find it easier going deeper, it's a pain when you keep bobbing up to the surface. Have you had a course on underwater video or read any books? Jim Churches one is a pretty good one, old, but goes through the motions of breaking your time down underwater to get the shots you need to create a story.

I think if you are expecting to get footage like people shooting a 20K camera, using a rebreather and in one of the worlds top diving locations you are always going to be disappointed if you are snorkelling in green-ish water.

That's not to say that you need the expensive stuff or perfect locations to get good footage, but it is a lot harder. Our very own DeanB is collecting a bucketful of awards for his short film about freshwater Pike (admittedly shot on a fancy HDV camera), but he spent hundreds of hours getting the footage for a short film, taking his time and waiting for the correct weather and behaviour to get the shots.

I think you may be expecting a little too much too soon. Enjoy getting the footage, and maybe next time look for a friendly subject, and when you find it, shoot lots of angles and try to find the right settings on your camera to get you the footage that you are seeking, once you have lots of footage of one subject you may decide you want to invest in some more expensive editing software.

1. My computer settings and how I save it with Windows Movie Maker - it asks you how you want to save it? save as an avi file for your own playback on your computer, wmv or quicktime for use on the internet

2. Is it just WMM itself? maybe

3. Is it Windows XP?

4. Should I have saved it to DVD and then it would be better?

5. Is it my settings on my computer screen?

6. Is my computer too old?

7. How do I get more clarity when it is finished and I want to save it? you cant really add clarity to footage

Microsoft makes Windows operating systems.

Generally all their other software they make is rubbish.

You will do better with editing software made from a company that makes editing software.

Would you buy a plane made from a company that makes baby prams?

The 1000 dollar editing software packages out there do a much better job but there is some cheap ones as well. Have a look at Pure Motion there is a cheap version there.

To get good shots you need to practise and practise and get to know all your controls on your camera.

You may find your housing has limited manual controls, What have you got there?

Compression, wmv is for the web but you can endode out to larger res wmv sizes to watch on your computer. AVI DV is like 15 GIGS per hour (25mbps) while a high res 60 min wmv file (8mbps) will be about 4 GIGS but still look very good.

For the web a wmv file 5oo kbps @ 640/360 1.1 aspect ration or 320/180 @ 256kbps looks good and will very small in size.

Any computer thats a few years old should have enough power to edit normal DV. The faster the computer the more things you can do in real time and not have to render the effects and stuff before it will play back in real time.

Remember like Simon said (Scuba SI) it takes time to get good at this stuff but we all started just like you except me....I was just born good at it

And who said the typical Aussie bloke is quiet, unassuming and softly spoken?

Ha ...........

P.S Wags, did you pay that driving ticket from the other day?

It downloaded on my G5 instantly. Don't want to blow my own horn but here is an article really meant for beginners that you might find helpful. Don't make the mistake of falling in love with your own footage, be very critical and cut, cut, cut. You will find it will make for a much better and more engrossing video.

http://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/underwater_douglas.html

Steve B)

Some good advice there - thanks fella's.

I'm not wanting to go pro but maybe my expectations are too high

I am using an old point and shoot housing and the only controls I have is when I set it before I lock it away - white balance, filters etc.

My camera is a land Canon MVX100i and is a nice little digital with plenty of effects. I think what you say about the type of editing program is correct though. WMM is shit. I usually play my reel on the widescreen TV when I get back from a dive and it looks really good straight off the camera. Once it is put through WMM it isn't the same. Everything is jilted and it loses something I reckon.

I think I will go out and get a good program with frame enhancement capabilities. Also will be doing my scuba soon and that will stop the wobbles no doubt and get me closer to my subjects. My computer is fine though for editing I think it has a big fast motor.

I am currently looking into purchasing some lenses to counter the green effects and stuff. The lenses are factory and screw straight onto the digital camera itself. I need a 37mm "magenta filter" I'm told but am not sure where to get these in Australia? It can't be a red one but must be slightly red - does this sound correct? Do they come in sets or can I buy them individually? What color filters are for what conditions? I know red is the best one you need first for loss of light because it's the first color to go underwater - white balance helps to a point.

Some good advice there - thanks fella's.

 

I'm not wanting to go pro but maybe my expectations are too high

 

I am using an old point and shoot housing and the only controls I have is when I set it before I lock it away - white balance, filters etc.

 

My camera is a land Canon MVX100i and is a nice little digital with plenty of effects. I think what you say about the type of editing program is correct though. WMM is shit. I usually play my reel on the widescreen TV when I get back from a dive and it looks really good straight off the camera. Once it is put through WMM it isn't the same. Everything is jilted and it loses something I reckon.

 

I think I will go out and get a good program with frame enhancement capabilities. Also will be doing my scuba soon and that will stop the wobbles no doubt and get me closer to my subjects. My computer is fine though for editing I think it has a big fast motor.

 

I am currently looking into purchasing some lenses to counter the green effects and stuff. The lenses are factory and screw straight onto the digital camera itself. I need a 37mm "magenta filter" I'm told but am not sure where to get these in Australia? It can't be a red one but must be slightly red - does this sound correct? Do they come in sets or can I buy them individually? What color filters are for what conditions? I know red is the best one you need first for loss of light because it's the first color to go underwater - white balance helps to a point.

go here and try adobe products before you buy: http://www.adobe.com/downloads/

It will last for a month. Try Premiere Elements, and export to AVI files, then either back on to tape, or get a trial copy of encore and play around with making your own DVD's. This product is quite complex and a big step up from WMM, Something like pinnacle will be an easier transition for you, and way cheaper if you decide to buy.

For filters... has anyone tried the magic filters on video yet? I think they'd be good for shallow water snorkelling...

If you are referring to the Magic Bullet filters, they are excellent but costly

Steve B)

Hi Steve,

These ones made by Alex Mustard and Peter Rowlands...

http://www.magic-filters.com/

I bet they'd be good and cheap for snorkelling!

UR PRO Filters

http://www.urprofilters.com/

UR PRO Filters

 

http://www.urprofilters.com/

They are really thick though, these are super thin, won't take out much light. get Vetch to try it and report back!

The Majic filters come in a sheet it seems - I need screw on lenses.

The US site is US - don't really like dealing with overseas stuff - any Ozzy sites that sell these filters?

Try these guys Australian URPro Stockist

I've had the 'Green water magics' for a while now but just haven't had the time to try them out...Sorry Alex. Maybe I'm to lazy, but I find (at the depth Im doing, down to 6M) I don't need to W/B much anyway, especially if there is decent available light. If I do I just W/B thru the UR PRO and then, if its too red, flip it off...Maybe I'll try Alex's next week.

Dive safe

DeanB

Thanks dude,

Looks like the two filters I need for blue and green water - awesome. Hope it's not to expensive - have sent an email to them and they should get back to me shortly.

He got back to me, $195 each lens - he must take me for a total f##cking idiot.

He said;

There are many colour filters but only genuine UR/Pro filters are designed for underwater colour correction.

Is this true?