I adapted an Ikelite strobe land use.

I talked to someone from Ikelite at BTS on Saturday. They told me it is perfectly safe to use any of their strobes out of the water and that they do all the time.

Just follow the same rules as UW shooting. "no more than 16 full power flashes in quick succession without a good 10 minute cool down"

I talked to someone from Ikelite at BTS on Saturday. They told me it is perfectly safe to use any of their strobes out of the water and that they do all the time.

 

Just follow the same rules as UW shooting. "no more than 16 full power flashes in quick succession without a good 10 minute cool down"

I captured the following image (and hundreds of others!) using a pair of DS 125 strobes.

For this image my Canon 40D was tethered to my laptop.........allowing live view on the laptop screen along with laptop control of aperture, shutter, and ISO. I could also fine tune manual focus by viewing the image either on my lap top screen or live view on the camera's LCD (10x) while manually adjusting focus with the lens. I am also able to initiate the camera's shutter release from the laptop to avoid camera shake. Canon supplies all of the necessary software, included with the 40D.

One Ikelite DS 125 was attached directly to the Canon 40D with a PC to Ikelite sync cord. The second DS 125 was attached to a gray TTL sensor and triggered optically by the master strobe. I could also have used a manual controller on either the master or slave..........but 4 optional power settings on the strobe head itself is sufficient imho.

For this type of product shot I tend to shoot with strobes set to half power with the diffuser installed, ISO 400.

hth,

b

I captured the following image (and hundreds of others!) using a pair of DS 125 strobes.

 

For this image my Canon 40D was tethered to my laptop.........allowing live view on the laptop screen along with laptop control of aperture, shutter, and ISO. I could also fine tune manual focus by viewing the image either on my lap top screen or live view on the camera's LCD (10x) while manually adjusting focus with the lens. I am also able to initiate the camera's shutter release from the laptop to avoid camera shake. Canon supplies all of the necessary software, included with the 40D.

 

One Ikelite DS 125 was attached directly to the Canon 40D with a PC to Ikelite sync cord. The second DS 125 was attached to a gray TTL sensor and triggered optically by the master strobe. I could also have used a manual controller on either the master or slave..........but 4 optional power settings on the strobe head itself is sufficient imho.

 

For this type of product shot I tend to shoot with strobes set to half power with the diffuser installed, ISO 400.

 

hth,

b

Nice! What's that advantage to attaching on with a PC cable as opposed to just using a dual sync cord?

I have to back James assessment that your risking your strobe while using it out of the water.I burned out one of my 400 Sub strobes while shooting rapidly. I believe the flash tube still works but the oscillator circuitry inside the flash has burnt out. This is a problem, Ike no longer has replacement parts, bummer.

I'm sorry I sold my nikonos Sb 104's, they have over heating warning sensors built in to the strobe warning you of the impending doom .

Marc

I have to back James assessment that your risking your strobe while using it out of the water.I burned out one of my 400 Sub strobes while shooting rapidly. I believe the flash tube still works but the oscillator circuitry inside the flash has burnt out. This is a problem, Ike no longer has replacement parts, bummer.

 

I'm sorry I sold my nikonos Sb 104's, they have over heating warning sensors built in to the strobe warning you of the impending doom .

 

Marc

Nice! What's that advantage to attaching on with a PC cable as opposed to just using a dual sync cord?

I don't own a dual sync cord so I wouldn't be able to answer what if any advantages there would be over a pc to Ikelite sync cord. However I do know that with a sync cord that has a PC connector on one end and and Ikelite connector on the other end you do not need to use an underwater housing..............please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you might have to use a housing if using a dual sync cord that had all Ikelite connectors. Also, by triggering the slave strobe optically as opposed to using a dual sync cord reduces the amount of cords by one........and one less cord in a photo studio is one less cord to accidentally trip over.

Also, my PC to Ikelite cord is 10 feet long. When using a 100mm topside for product photography, distance from camera to strobe and subject may become an issue relative to sync cord length.......but that said, not as much as when using a 17-55mm as I did for the image above (focal length at 55mm).

My post is not meant to contradict what Marc and James have suggested, but to support the information that was conveyed to grunzster. Please note Marc and James' unfortunate circumstances were with the substrobe 400 whereas I am using a pair of DS 125 substrobes. Also, since I still consider myself a student of product photography, I take my time and assess each image prior to capturing the next shot. Shoot, review, adjust, shoot again...........not usually for the benefit of exposure but more for the problems that exist with a high glare surface (iow, trying to minimize the blowouts)........iow, there is a built in lag time between images while I reposition the strobes or foam core in an attempt to knock down the glare (Matt, I'm still planning on trying that polarizer you recommended ). And as I also mentioned previously, my strobes are set usually at 1/2 power.

hth,

b

I don't own a dual sync cord so I wouldn't be able to answer what if any advantages there would be over a pc to Ikelite sync cord. However I do know that with a sync cord that has a PC connector on one end and and Ikelite connector on the other end you do not need to use an underwater housing..............please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you might have to use a housing if using a dual sync cord that had all Ikelite connectors. Also, by triggering the slave strobe optically as opposed to using a dual sync cord reduces the amount of cords by one........and one less cord in a photo studio is one less cord to accidentally trip over.

 

Also, my PC to Ikelite cord is 10 feet long. When using a 100mm topside for product photography, distance from camera to strobe and subject may become an issue relative to sync cord length.......but that said, not as much as when using a 17-55mm as I did for the image above (focal length at 55mm).

 

My post is not meant to contradict what Marc and James have suggested, but to support the information that was conveyed to grunzster. Please note Marc and James' unfortunate circumstances were with the substrobe 400 whereas I am using a pair of DS 125 substrobes. Also, since I still consider myself a student of product photography, I take my time and assess each image prior to capturing the next shot. Shoot, review, adjust, shoot again...........not usually for the benefit of exposure but more for the problems that exist with a high glare surface (iow, trying to minimize the blowouts)........iow, there is a built in lag time between images while I reposition the strobes or foam core in an attempt to knock down the glare (Matt, I'm still planning on trying that polarizer you recommended ). And as I also mentioned previously, my strobes are set usually at 1/2 power.

 

hth,

b

Just ordered the PC cord...and the new flat port.

B&H is out of stock on the manual controller, though.

So what are you using for stands? How do the stobes mount to the stands?

I'm having trouble finding ones that a universal ULCS ball adaptor will thread into.

Hi Guys,

I mount Ike strobes on stands, and use them for portraits and fashion shots. I even found a way to put softboxes on mine.

The light adapters that drop into most light stands have a 1/4-20 thread on them. You can order an ultralight adapter that will thread right on there. Alternatively, you can use a Bogen monopod head (little bit more $) that threads onto the light stand and also threads onto the Ike SS200.

Here's what the softboxes look like mounted on SS200's:

They were pretty cheap ones - bought on Ebay for something like $25 each. So add that plus $20 for the balladapter and $40 for a light stand and you're doing pretty good.

Cheers

James

Also, my PC to Ikelite cord is 10 feet long. When using a 100mm topside for product photography, distance from camera to strobe and subject may become an issue relative to sync cord length.......but that said, not as much as when using a 17-55mm as I did for the image above (focal length at 55mm).

I only saw one Ikelite PC cord on B&H's site which didn't have the length listed and I can't find it on Ikelite's site at all.

Just came today, and it's WAY shorter than 10'.

Is the PC cord you have actually 10' long or are you using an extentsion with it?

 

I only saw one Ikelite PC cord on B&H's site which didn't have the length listed and I can't find it on Ikelite's site at all.

 

Just came today, and it's WAY shorter than 10'.

My PC to Ikelite sync cord is 10' long. It was special ordered. If you too feel the need for length, I assume you would be able to splice an additional piece of wire into the central section of your cord without too much difficulty.

So what are you using for stands? How do the stobes mount to the stands?

I mount the DS 125 strobe onto a Smith Victor light stand using an Ikelite extended mounting stem (the part that fits directly into the tray release handle.......tube on one side.......ball on the other). To do so, I remove the top telescopic portion of the light stand and replace it with the Ikelite mounting stem. The hollow tube interior of the light stand is coincidently the same diameter as the mounting stem. I should also mention that I have the Ikelite 1.25" strobe arm system which is sturdy enough to support the weight of a DS 125 topside with ease.

hth,

b

My PC to Ikelite sync cord is 10' long. It was special ordered. If you too feel the need for length, I assume you would be able to splice an additional piece of wire into the central section of your cord without too much difficulty.

I mount the DS 125 strobe onto a Smith Victor light stand using an Ikelite extended mounting stem (the part that fits directly into the tray release handle.......tube on one side.......ball on the other). To do so, I remove the top telescopic portion of the light stand and replace it with the Ikelite mounting stem. The hollow tube interior of the light stand is coincidently the same diameter as the mounting stem. I should also mention that I have the Ikelite 1.25" strobe arm system which is sturdy enough to support the weight of a DS 125 topside with ease.

 

hth,

b

Well apparently Smith Victor stands aren't all the same diameter. My ULCS stems are about the exact same diameter as the top tube on the stands I just got. CRAP!!!

Looks like I'll need to make a Home Depot trip to find something for an adapter.

Never mind. Problem solved.

If I remove the top extension the stem fits, and it even allows me to use the clamp to lock them in place, and the stands are still tall enough since I got the 10' ones becasue they didn't cost much more than the shorter model.

I don't own a dual sync cord so I wouldn't be able to answer what if any advantages there would be over a pc to Ikelite sync cord. However I do know that with a sync cord that has a PC connector on one end and and Ikelite connector on the other end you do not need to use an underwater housing..............please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you might have to use a housing if using a dual sync cord that had all Ikelite connectors. Also, by triggering the slave strobe optically as opposed to using a dual sync cord reduces the amount of cords by one........and one less cord in a photo studio is one less cord to accidentally trip over.

 

Also, my PC to Ikelite cord is 10 feet long. When using a 100mm topside for product photography, distance from camera to strobe and subject may become an issue relative to sync cord length.......but that said, not as much as when using a 17-55mm as I did for the image above (focal length at 55mm).

 

hth,

b

What settings are you using?

I have the same set up, although I have just have the standard short PC cord, and I'm had holding the camera, not connecting it to a PC.

No matter what I try, I can't get the strobe to fire.

I've used a bunch of different shutter speeds and every setting on the strobe.

What settings are you using?

 

I have the same set up, although I have just have the standard short PC cord, and I'm had holding the camera, not connecting it to a PC.

 

No matter what I try, I can't get the strobe to fire.

 

I've used a bunch of different shutter speeds and every setting on the strobe.

First, test the sync cord. Use the metal end of a plastic headed push pin (or facsimile) to cross between the outer ring and the center pin on the pc connector. Once contact is complete, your strobe should fire.

That said, I do recall experiencing a similar situation......so I went back into my notes and found an email that i sent to a friend......in it i stated to him:

When I was in M mode, live view activated, strobe would not trip. When I set the dial to Av, live view would automatically deactivate (never occurred to me that there might be a link). All I knew was that strobes began tripping once I switched from M to Av........and as long as when I switched back to M without any other mods( live view stayed off)........strobes continued to fire........

Therefore.........if activated, try shutting live view off during actual image capture. (i use live view magnification ........5x or 10x.........to confirm manual focus (manual focus allows me to dictate what is in focus).........but after focus confirmation, shut live view off and return to relying upon the viewfinder.

see page 106 of the 40D manual for more info on the use of non canon strobes........also at the bottom of page 113 the manual discusses other scenarios on the use of non canon strobes.........

hth,

b

First, test the sync cord. Use the metal end of a plastic headed push pin (or facsimile) to cross between the outer ring and the center pin on the pc connector. Once contact is complete, your strobe should fire.

 

That said, I do recall experiencing a similar situation......so I went back into my notes and found an email that i sent to a friend......in it i stated to him:

 

Therefore.........if activated, try shutting live view off during actual image capture. (i use live view magnification ........5x or 10x.........to confirm manual focus (manual focus allows me to dictate what is in focus).........but after focus confirmation, shut live view off and return to relying upon the viewfinder.

 

see page 106 of the 40D manual for more info on the use of non canon strobes........also at the bottom of page 113 the manual discusses other scenarios on the use of non canon strobes.........

 

hth,

b

Also according to the manual it should still work with live view on as long as in live view settings "Silent Shoot" is set to "Disable", which I also tried.

And used every shutter speed between 45 - 250. The manual says non-Canon strobes will sync at 250 and slower speeds.

After all of that I re-read your post. So, I took a small piece of solid copper wire and ran it between the center post and outer ring on the cable. A few times, the strobe make a sound for about a second, as if it was starting to build up a charge, but it would quickly die it. Neither of my strobes would fire while doing this.

So looks like I'm giving Ikelite a call for a new cable.