You are correct that proper exposure depends only on f-stop, shutter speed and ISO, and the FOV of the 50mm on the Olympus is the same as 100mm on a full frame. And yes, at the same f-stop the DOF of the 50mm is NOT the same as the DOF of the 100mm. The 100mm at F2.8 has a more shallow DOF, the 50 will have to be stop down to F1.4 to match that. Also, if the two cameras has the same number of pixels, the full frame can be shot at 2 f-stops higher before becoming diffraction limited in resolution. Ever wondered why the point-and-shoots have f-stops that only goes up to f5?
Partly diffraction, as you say, but also partly that the lenses were cheap and hit confusion before diffraction, and partly that they are small and at some point a tiny hole is hard to make, even if with the rest of the lens geometry, it's only f8. And why go to f22 when they sync at 1/4000 and can compensate with fast shutter speeds for most of their users (with shaky hands).
As I mentioned in my responses to Roger's post. For the same FOV, DOF and light captured by the sensor. The full frame should have 2x lens focal length, 2 f-stops higher (smaller aperture), and shot at 2-stops higher ISO.
hooo, you lost me. But I want to figure this out, I might learn something.
Herb, put it simply for me. Let's stick with 100mm lenses, your 100mm and my 50mm, assume they have the same FOV, 24 degrees. Say the subject is at 2 feet. What are the relative fstops and DoFs? Are you saying that your aperture is larger, your plate scale means you put more photons into each sensor?
according to the DofMaster, at 2' and f2, I have a DoF of .03', 1.99 to 2.01 (must be some round off). At 2' and f22, I have a DoF of .31', 1.86 to 2.16.