Need input in deciding for strobe

Hi, I'm a newbie in this realm. Up to now I have been taking photos on land with my digicam and the internal flash. I have been thinking of buying a whole new setup so that I can also take it underwater. Under serious consideration is the Oly C5050 and Nikon CP5000.

I am confused about the strobe to go with it, from much reading here I have gather the following information:

YS-90DX: TTL slave + Full manual + 12 steps adjustments. Hard wired and wireless capable

Inon D-180: Semi-auto (Setting the F stop on the strobe and the strobe do the rest). Focus light feature. Wireless only.

Inon Z-220 TTL slave + Full manual + 11 steps adjustments. Focus light feature. Hard wired and wireless capable.

Is this correct? If so it seems to me that YS-90X or Z-220may acommodate more future advance needs, while the D-180 is more of a point and shoot strobe.

All inputs are appreciated.

Thanks in advane.

As far as i know the only system that copys preflash output an can so be real TTL Flash for a Digicam is a Ikelite DS (50 or 125) with TTL Sensor.

Simon

Can you please elaborate the "real" issue?

I just want to give you the information, that these strobes won't do TTL in slave mode with a digital camera, you have to use full manual .

Simon

Turbonium, the decision on your strobe will depend a lot on the camera you select, the housing you get, whether you want TTL capabilities with your strobe and how much you want to spend. You'll also need to consider the power and angle of coverage of the strobe for your application. Narrow down some of these inputs and we can give you some advice...

I have decided on the Oly C-5050 with PT-015. I have not set a budget for the strobe but looking for a mid size range. As I have read around in many places and talking to a couple people Sea and Sea and Inon seems to be the recommended choice. I am looking for a strobe which will help me get started and carry on for future advancement.

Then angle of coverage I want is approximately 100x100 give and take. Now, as a beginner, I would appreciate the TTL capability and with my set-up I would need it slave (if I understand it correctly). So I am a little unsure when Simon mentioned "real" TTL.

All around, many vendors seems to be recommending me either the Sea&Sea YS-90Auto or INON D-180.

All around, many vendors seems to be recommending me either the Sea&Sea YS-90Auto or INON D-180.

With the C5050 and PT-015 the Ikelite DS125 and DS50 with the TTL slave sensor will work in TTL. At the same time the DS125 will give you 4 manual output settings (full, 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8), the DS50 only 1 (full). Of these the DS125 has 90 degree coverage (100 with the diffuser). You can also control both these strobes with manual slave sensor which doesn't have TTL control but 10 manual output settings.

Used with a fibre optic cable the S&S YS90DX and Inon D180 and Z220 (Z220s) will work in manual only. The S&S YS90 auto is neither manual nor TLL in the sense that you select an output setting that corresponds to what your camera shows e.g f5.6 and a sensor on the strobe will quench (the strobe) when it (the strobe) thinks the correct exposure has been reached.

I checked out the DS-125, but at $850 (with TTL sensor) its just way beyond what I was expecting to pay. DS-50 is more financially sound - anyone experience with them?

Lightwise wise is it sufficient for most underwater photography? Are there any significant difference between the two model?

thanks.

I lso use the 125 but what I heard about the 50 is good. Ike claims (and i belive him) that the 50 is comparable in power with the YS90. So it is the class you are looking for.

Simon

Lightwise wise is it sufficient for most underwater photography? Are there any significant difference between the two model?

The DS50 is a 50watt-second strobe and the DS125 is 110.

Angle of coverage of the DS50 is 68 and 80 with the diffuser and that of the DS125 is 90/100.

The recycle time of the DS50 is 3.5s and the DS125 is 1s.

The DS50 uses 4xAA batteries and the DS125 has a proprietary NiCad pack.

The DS125 has a built in aiming light that is bright enough to be used as a night dive torch.

Ok, thanks for the input. I'll probably look into Ikelite.

Now... what arm system should I have to with it.... Been looking at UCLS, but I dont know what piece to go with what, any one have any particular set-up to recommend?

thanks.

btw. How do you pronounce Ikelite? is it "e-kay-light" or "ike-light"?

Ikelite is pronounced "Grumpylite" or something like that.

Hmm, I think the "Ike" in "Ikelite" is Ike's name. Now, how do you pronounce that?

A more important question is, what is your budget? Without that kind of essential information, everyone is just going to recommend the best, like the DS125, which you just said is out of your price range.

Ike offers 1 inch ball arms which are reasonably priced. I'm going to use a set with my Halcyon 10W HID if I can ever get the light back from my Divemaster...I think I'll have to buy a new one, though

thanks for the prompt reply, as I have stated above, I'm new and I don't know how much one of these is supposed to cost. Most important though is that it is functional.

So I would appreciate it if anyone can show me a picture of what they are using and how much it cost.

In this thread (at the end) you can find Pics of my setup. It is the set that Ike offers (DS125 + Tray + Arm + TTL Sensor ) at it is compatible as well for the OLY 5050, so just think your camera instead of my Canon S50 and you see what you get. The Same package is available with a D50 instead of a D125. Have a look on Ikes Hompage for prices.

Simon

Thanks Simon. Did you buy them in a package as shown on Ikelite's web site? If so you had to separately purchase the tray with the handle correct?

I noticed that the D-125 comes with proprietary NiCad battery, will they take normal rechargeble batteries? How about NiMH?Would you happen to have any disassemble shot of the strobe? Just wanted to see how things are done.

Yes I bought the Package and I'm not sure anymore if the Tray/handle was included or not. Ask Ike!

The Battery pack is the saeld back part of the strobe. you can take them apart and you have a jack for the charger on the inner side. You can't use any normal accus/batteries. A simple charger (10h) is included and a snart charger (3h) is available seperatly (i have it) but you won't have problems I can use the Strobe for 3-5 dives w/o recharging with 30-50 Shots a dive.

If i have time the next day i will take some photos and post them.

Simon

I use a Sea and Sea tray, Ultralight handle and arms. Pic of my rig below.

Link of a brief description here.

From the picture below, will Ikelite arm system be compatible with the Fisheye tray? I asked Ikelite, but they don't seem to know.

No, the Ikelite arms are not compatible with that tray.

If you get the ULCS pivot, Ike has 1 inch ball arm components that are used with his strobes.

You should be able to get a ulcs direct base ball adapter for fisheye tray. This will allow you to use ball and clamp arms.