Best Glass for Newbies

QUOTE

You need someone flying with you on that first attempt.

 

I wish I'd had that.

 

It's only Monday and the awful week I'm having I think I am up for the assignment !

 

Having said that I am in the UK so have a small logistical problem to overcome

 

 

Paul C

The conclusion I came to was that manual exposure was required for good UW photos.

 

Though from your wording, perhaps you meant "manual flash," not "manual exposure."

 

 

Though what's the hand signal for "stop down to f/16 if you're that close?"

 

- Gus

Hi Gus. Yes I was trying to say manual strobe control. For me it all comes down to that control word. Like you, I started out thinking TTL was the smart way to go, but eventually came to understand that to get the images I want I have to be in control of the light. TTL works for some on closeup or macro if you're shooting against the reef. But it's very clumsy with WA, In the vertical format shooting the water column you can easily go from f22 at the surface to f4 at the bottom of the frame. How is the camera/strobe supposed to calculate that? Then the black durgeon, a light sponge, comes through the frame or a nice shiny mirrored surface Tarpon to really confuse things. With film you could just poke and hope, but the glory of digital is that allows you use your trial and error technique to get some great images. With a little more experience, I'll bet you start to see the contol you need before you hit the shutter.

 

As for those control hand signals, with the Nikonos my son and I could just mimic the turning of the aperature knob one way or the other and we both knew what that meant. Digital is a little different. How do you mimic pushing buttons? We're going to try a little notebook of waterproof paper on the next trip.

 

"But it's hardly foolproof" I'd agree completely, Nothing in the ocean is.

 

Have fun!

 

Steve

Hey Zeb, I think your buddy Christian should be thrown under something. Your situation is a little like you told Chris you wanted to learn to fly and he put you in the cockpit of an F-16 for your first solo.

 

First don't worry about the TTL. I'd guess over 90% of the folks shooting DSLR's shoot manual because they want to. To over simplify a little, it's easy with your 250's to adjust the strobes for the light you need. Your first priority is to keep your camera dry. I would warn you that it is very easy to make a simple mistake and ruin a lot of great equipment. We have all done it, or will. You need someone flying with you on that first attempt. I would highly suggest you call ahead to the shop you’re going to dive with and have them recommend a local pro that can help you. Heck might even post a request here and see if one of the guys or gals knows someone you could hire out for a couple of days to get you started. Underwater photography isn't inherently difficult, you'll do fine. But there is a reasonable amount to learn. Take me for example, I decided last year to go digital, I have been diving since 1968 and stopped counting my dives at 5000 years ago. I've shot film underwater since 78. Even with that experience, I have read 6 books and every post on Wetpixel for the last six months to get to the place where I am comfortable taking my new S&S housing and a Canon camera that costs a quarter of yours into the ocean. I will still have a checklist and my son, who’s a better photographer and diver than I am, to back me up. Okay, so I’m an engineer and tend to over analyze everything, but you get the idea. I’m not trying to scare you Zeb, well maybe just a little. I really want you to be successful and have a great time with your new system. I want to see you post some great images here when you get back! I just think the best way for you to do that is to get some help. Post a request for help, and call one of the reputable company's listed on this site (Backscatter, Reef photo, UW Photo tech, Marine camera, etc.). Tell them what you have and your situation and they will fix you up. Good Luck

 

Steve

Steve,

 

I checked out your pictures. They are really amazing. Seems like all macro stuff? I Just picked up a 17- 40mm and a zoom gear. Do you think that is to much to start with or should I stick with the 20mm for the first couple dives?

 

Thanks

Zeb

 

 

Hey Zeb, I think your buddy Christian should be thrown under something. Your situation is a little like you told Chris you wanted to learn to fly and he put you in the cockpit of an F-16 for your first solo.

 

First don't worry about the TTL. I'd guess over 90% of the folks shooting DSLR's shoot manual because they want to. To over simplify a little, it's easy with your 250's to adjust the strobes for the light you need. Your first priority is to keep your camera dry. I would warn you that it is very easy to make a simple mistake and ruin a lot of great equipment. We have all done it, or will. You need someone flying with you on that first attempt. I would highly suggest you call ahead to the shop you’re going to dive with and have them recommend a local pro that can help you. Heck might even post a request here and see if one of the guys or gals knows someone you could hire out for a couple of days to get you started. Underwater photography isn't inherently difficult, you'll do fine. But there is a reasonable amount to learn. Take me for example, I decided last year to go digital, I have been diving since 1968 and stopped counting my dives at 5000 years ago. I've shot film underwater since 78. Even with that experience, I have read 6 books and every post on Wetpixel for the last six months to get to the place where I am comfortable taking my new S&S housing and a Canon camera that costs a quarter of yours into the ocean. I will still have a checklist and my son, who’s a better photographer and diver than I am, to back me up. Okay, so I’m an engineer and tend to over analyze everything, but you get the idea. I’m not trying to scare you Zeb, well maybe just a little. I really want you to be successful and have a great time with your new system. I want to see you post some great images here when you get back! I just think the best way for you to do that is to get some help. Post a request for help, and call one of the reputable company's listed on this site (Backscatter, Reef photo, UW Photo tech, Marine camera, etc.). Tell them what you have and your situation and they will fix you up. Good Luck

 

Steve

Steve,

 

I checked out your pictures. They are really amazing. Seems like all macro stuff? I Just picked up a 17- 40mm and a zoom gear. Do you think that is to much to start with or should I stick with the 20mm for the first couple dives?

 

Thanks

Zeb

Steve,

 

I checked out your pictures. They are really amazing. Seems like all macro stuff? I Just picked up a 17- 40mm and a zoom gear. Do you think that is to much to start with or should I stick with the 20mm for the first couple dives?

 

Thanks

Zeb

Hey Zeb,

 

Glad you liked some of my stuff but I have to tell you I feel uncomfortable being singled out as an expert here. I'm just learning this digital stuff. There are hundreds of folks here who I consider far more of an authority to answer your question. I'll take a shot and hope someone else will jump in here. I'd would have to go with the earlier advice. Pick one lens and port for the first trip. Makes sense to me to avoid the zoom if for no other reason than it's one less thing to worry about. I'd guess with the 20mm you'll find you need to much closer to your subject than you first think. That's not a bad mantra for any of us. "Don't hurt the reef, and get closer"

 

Steve

Alternately, you could go with the 17-40mm and leave the zoom ring out, fixing it at a specific focal length before you dive. You can start at 20mm or 17mm and change sometime later if you find that's too wide.

 

I really thought I'd be using 17mm a lot before I went diving, because I'm fond of very wide angle above water. In practice, I ended up preferring 35mm for wide angle. Which isn't very wide, but it was wide enough for most of my actual subjects.

 

- Gus