New DX-1G

THey are RAW format, but have been worked on some in photoshop

How did you find the shutter lag,i heard its quick to expose and capture unlike other digital camera's that takes so long that the subject is already gone 10 seconds

How did you find the shutter lag,i heard its quick to expose and capture unlike other digital camera's that takes so long that the subject is already gone 10 seconds

Shutter lag was not a problem. Like most automatic focus cameras, it won't fire unless something is in focus, and in low light this was sometimes a problem. Using a small dive light as a focus light helps out in this area.

That also makes the screen easier to read in low light

wow...thanks for some great info on the camera I'm looking at Nice pics !!

Thanks. When you get yours, be sure and post some photos here too.

Thanks. When you get yours, be sure and post some photos here too.

Absolutely! I figure with the great advice, tips, and techniques I'm hearing here...folks will HOPEFULLY be able to see my progress...LOL

Hi all,

Finally got my new setup wet so thought I'd let you see the pick of my shots, not really edited just converted over from DNG.

A few problems with camera taking time to focus esp in macro mode, much reduced by taking time / care to get the focus light in better position. Also I found the YS 110 would tend to switch out of slave mode quite easily, may need a bit of gaffer tape there.

See Here

Dive safe,

TDD

Nice stuff! I have not done much Macro and none with this setup, but hope to do some in Komodo this October.

Do you have closeup lenses or just use macro mode? Did you shoot manual or auto? More details please!

Thanks for sharing

For macro I was using the camera fully zoomed in to increase the max f stop from 9 to 15 to give more depth of field, using the macro mode of the camera. I have a reasonable shot of a nudi about 6mm long filling most of the frame using this method. I was shooting auto focus, manual apature (set to max) and manual shutter speed (usually 1/124th sec). Had to turn the strobe right down to min to avoid over exposing and I have gaffer taped over the flash on the housing to reduce backscatter (May not be such a problem in Komodo?). I am thinking about getting some sort of dedicated focusing light to improve the focus time for macro shots, possibly a compact torch diffused and mounted on the shoe fitting on top of the housing?

The wider angle stuff was max f stop (ie 9ish?) zoomed right out and shutter around 1/125th again for the black backgrounds and shutter speed slower (1/30th or so) for the blue/green backgrounds, Strobe turned up to about 1/3 - 1/2 power.

I now have the wide angle adaptor as well which looks very impressive so will be trying that out fairly soon. Was mainly looking to record overviews of habitats hence a lot of wide angle stuff, the adaptor should let me get closer and reduce all the gunky bits.

Hope this is of help,

TDD

Hi all,

Finally got my new setup wet so thought I'd let you see the pick of my shots, not really edited just converted over from DNG.

A few problems with camera taking time to focus esp in macro mode, much reduced by taking time / care to get the focus light in better position. Also I found the YS 110 would tend to switch out of slave mode quite easily, may need a bit of gaffer tape there.

See Here

Dive safe,

TDD

They look fantastic.A good quality image.What were the conditions like?In Scotland i take it greenish water abit murky and you manage to come out with something good without editing.Also it just shows you how important a strobe is in the these conditions.

Water clarity was good when we were there, probably 10-15m overall vis, but with large stringy clumps of diatoms (Especially visible in the shot of the seapen habitat). Water colour / ambient light was fairly green hued. Very little light penetration below about 25m. Strobe is useful to give better colour any deeper than about 5m, and essential below 25m.

The files on the site are low quality jpegs (500k or so), the quality of the original dngs is really very good and would probably blow up / crop down quite well, and certainly cope with a little touching up if required.

TDD

Water clarity was good when we were there, probably 10-15m overall vis, but with large stringy clumps of diatoms (Especially visible in the shot of the seapen habitat). Water colour / ambient light was fairly green hued. Very little light penetration below about 25m. Strobe is useful to give better colour any deeper than about 5m, and essential below 25m.

The files on the site are low quality jpegs (500k or so), the quality of the original dngs is really very good and would probably blow up / crop down quite well, and certainly cope with a little touching up if required.

TDD

Very nice shots!!! I'll be getting my DX-1G in about 2 weeks, and trying it out in a month! Here's a noob question... you talk about putting gaffers tape over the flash....so basically confining the flash to the strobe FO Port? Another question...to anyone shooting the DX 1G... what type of arm floats are you using? Whats compatible with the sea arm VII? Well done DD!

Cheers,

Greg

Greg,

The housing has a couple of sockets/ports which the fibre optic plugs into, and a window which the internal flash can fire through. I was having some problems with backscatter from the internal flash and also with the ys110 getting turned off (ie slave mode to Off instead of On) and failing to fire, but me not noticing as an image was still appearing on the review screen (under exposed + heavily backscattered), causing me confusion. To prevent this I have stuck a small piece of tape over the window so there is no significant amount of light coming from the internal flash. If you are shooting in clearer water and are able to remeber to ensure your strobe is firing you might find the internal flash useful to give a bit of light to the foreground and not want to cover it?

I am using the sea arm VII with YS110 strobe and find the setup to be around neutrally bouyant if not slightly positive, the wide angle adaptor seems fairly heavy + dense so may make the setup slightly negative but I don't think it will be too much of a problem. Also the system is quite a bit more compact than the SLR systems I have seen so current drag is more manageable.

Hope this is of help,

TDD

Very nice shots!!! I'll be getting my DX-1G in about 2 weeks, and trying it out in a month! Here's a noob question... you talk about putting gaffers tape over the flash....so basically confining the flash to the strobe FO Port? Another question...to anyone shooting the DX 1G... what type of arm floats are you using? Whats compatible with the sea arm VII? Well done DD!

 

Cheers,

 

Greg

Greg,

The housing has a couple of sockets/ports which the fibre optic plugs into, and a window which the internal flash can fire through. I was having some problems with backscatter from the internal flash and also with the ys110 getting turned off (ie slave mode to Off instead of On) and failing to fire, but me not noticing as an image was still appearing on the review screen (under exposed + heavily backscattered), causing me confusion. To prevent this I have stuck a small piece of tape over the window so there is no significant amount of light coming from the internal flash. If you are shooting in clearer water and are able to remeber to ensure your strobe is firing you might find the internal flash useful to give a bit of light to the foreground and not want to cover it?

I am using the sea arm VII with YS110 strobe and find the setup to be around neutrally bouyant if not slightly positive, the wide angle adaptor seems fairly heavy + dense so may make the setup slightly negative but I don't think it will be too much of a problem. Also the system is quite a bit more compact than the SLR systems I have seen so current drag is more manageable.

Hope this is of help,

TDD

Thanks TDD!! So...if Im getting this right, the internal flash will always fire, well has to fire to send the signal to the strobe...correct?. That internal flash will give the reflection straight back to the lens in the form of backscatter? So....just block out that light as much as possible? Dang Im such a noob...lol

Thats good to hear about the bouyancy. Someone brought it up to me the other day and said it was an issue with other set ups and that I should look into it

Cheers!!

Greg

Greg,

As the strobe is slaved to the flash from the camera you have to make sure the camera flash is firing (ie set it to always fire) and you have to make sure it is "popped up" before you put the camera into the housing as the only control you don't have on the housing is the one to pop up the flash. I know that I will forget one day and curse quite excessively, a good argument for firing off a quick shot or 2 after you've put everything together to make sure it works I guess?

I think backscatter will always be a primary concern for us temperate water divers?

Dive safe,

TDD

OK....after everyones fantastic help and input I've took the plunge! Went down and bought my DX-1G Pro package Pick it up on Thursday!

Hi all,

Been a lurker for a while but I thought I would pass on some info in regards to the DX-1G. Sea & Sea have brought out a little plastic mod that fits over the camera's internal flash so that it raises the fibre cable up - so that it is directly in front of the camera's flash as there was an issue in that sometimes the external flash did not always fire. Not sure how much they cost but I was given a couple a few weeks ago when I was in Singapore. Hope this helps - I love the camera.

Karl

Hi all,

 

Been a lurker for a while but I thought I would pass on some info in regards to the DX-1G. Sea & Sea have brought out a little plastic mod that fits over the camera's internal flash so that it raises the fibre cable up - so that it is directly in front of the camera's flash as there was an issue in that sometimes the external flash did not always fire. Not sure how much they cost but I was given a couple a few weeks ago when I was in Singapore. Hope this helps - I love the camera.

 

Karl

Hiya Karl,

Any idea where this can be found at??....besides Singapore. I'll take a look at Sea and Sea Japan, see if they have anything on that, and the new 110 replacement too

Hiya Karl,

 

Any idea where this can be found at??....besides Singapore. I'll take a look at Sea and Sea Japan, see if they have anything on that, and the new 110 replacement too

That's some great information. I too would like to know where to get these. I am going to Indonesia Oct. 5 and would like to acquire one before then.

I only found out about them when I visited the Sea and Sea shop in Singapore - I haven't seen any in Australia. If you email Andrew Yeo at seansea@pacific.net.sg or telephone +65 6337 6334 he will help you as he had a box full of them when I was there.

On a side note - I have painted one of the ones I got black on the outside in an attempt to reduce the backscatter from the internal flash, so hopefully this will work.

Karl

THanks for the info.