One issue that comes up frequently in discussions is that of diffraction, an issue that gets worse with small photosites (high megapixels, small sensors). Low pixel density FF sensors (such as the 5D, D3, D700) are the best to combat the loss of sharpness due to diffraction at small apertures. And the theoretical limits of systems are often quoted.
For my own camera, an aged D2X (with high pixel density), a diffraction limit of F11 is cited (to quote Thom Hogan "On a D2x it seems to be around f/11. Up to f/11 and the D2x's acuity appears as you'd expect. Beyond f/11 and you'll likely start saying to yourself that the results don't look like you're getting the full impact of more DOF.").
However, this is not what I see in my underwater images. And my only conclusion is that by the time you are shooting through port glass, murky water etc, diffraction is not the biggest of your worries. Even in the lenses sweet spot (F8-F11) you loose acuity for these other factors. So stopping down the issues of diffraction are not so significant?
Yes. If dirty water is the limiting factor, getting closer is only way to improve resolution.
I think the term "limit" in this context refers to the system no longer limited by the resolution of the sensor at F/11 and the lens is more of a limiting factor. The extra megapixels you got from upgrading your D100 is not going to improve your image. Of course if you have a murky medium, that could be the limiting factor rather than the lens.
If stepping down to F/25 does not degrade the image then the sensor is definitely not the limiting factor, and as Craig mentioned you can probably get the same results with a D100 or D2H.
If you know you are diving in these conditions, a wider lens may be a better choice. The image quality will be limited by how close you get to the subject. If the subject is still too small to fill the frame at this distance, you can crop and not lose anything compared to a longer lens that will frame fill the subject. The water is still the limiting factor. I think that's why the film shooter here in northern California used to prefer the 60mm over the 105mm.
... My standard image delivery size is 45x30cm (c. 18"x12") @ 300DPI, which is just under 19 megapixels. With a D2X (12MP) this requires up-rezzing (which is why I want a new camera), which I tend to do in one step in Lightroom, then re-sharpen, lightly in Photoshop (leaving final sharpening to client when image repro size is decided).
I find this hard to understand especially in the context of the rest of the post. Are you saying you are going to buy a new camera, housing, and lenses if you change to FX, just to skip the step of upsizing, with no expectations of increased image quality?
