How important is TTL flash?

In the days of film I was a dedicated fan of TTL. Thanks for all the input. What I deduce from this is that you feel it's a nice option to have. However, those of you that dial in compensation - presumably you take a shot first to know what compensation you need. What's the difference between that and dialing in compensation on a flashgun by altering the power output when it's in manual mode?

(My Subtronics vary from Full to 1/32 power but I always use my Inons at 11 because it's more than 10!!!)

However, those of you that dial in compensation - presumably you take a shot first to know what compensation you need. What's the difference between that and dialing in compensation on a flashgun by altering the power output when it's in manual mode?

...and now for my thoughts on the topic.

I have a TTL converter and I am very happy with it.

I use it all the time when in Macro or close range WA mode. I do a bit of fine tweaking, by adjusting the max dump allowed ( possible on the INONs). In feel that the TTL gives me a much better starting point, than the Manual.

For WA then I switch over to Manual.

Would I survive without TTL: Yes

Would I miss TTL: Definately

RAW: 100%

/Erik

What's the difference between that and dialing in compensation on a flashgun by altering the power output when it's in manual mode?

Dialing in compensation on the Ikelite housing still uses TTL but tells the camera to use more or less flash, useful for dark or reflective subjects. The difference is that you are still using the camera's meter. Shouldn't be any difference in the end result just saves you working out a power setting to start with.

DSLR owners.

 

I'm writing a piece about underwater DSLR use for public consumption.

 

I know that those that shoot compacts and jpegs probably like automatic flash exposure. What I would like to do is a straw poll on those of you using DSLRs to know if you use TTL flash or just go for it like I do.

 

Is it important to have the facility for TTL flash with a DSLR?

 

I suppose a supplementary question would be: Do you shoot RAW files or in-camera conversions such as jpegs?

I shoot WA always in manual (2 x subtronic novas) and iTTL in macro (2 x Sea&Sea 250pro with converter or 1 x homemade housing SB800 or 1 x subtronic nova iTTL).

I started with a P&S digital camera so I have never shot film therefore I have never used "original" TTL. I find iTTL very helpful and reliable in my case (in all three cases).

I mainly use the Sea&Seas for macro because the recycle veeeery fast (macro pics rarely need a lot of output anyway) and the convenience of turning off one of the strobes AND still having iTTL with the other, or shoot with two if I want etc... Subtronic iTTL is my second choice but sometimes using only one strobe makes me lose photo opportunities (very close to the port subjects etc...). All said, sometimes I shoot manual just to "know" my gear in case I have to override during a competition (bad cable connection...)

However, those of you that dial in compensation - presumably you take a shot first to know what compensation you need. What's the difference between that and dialing in compensation on a flashgun by altering the power output when it's in manual mode?

From practicing I pretty much always know what compensation I need depending on how much the subject fills the frame and its colour (I also know what is the manual power for typical shots like 105mm at 1:1 and F22...). The difference (and advantage) comes to mind when that rare fish/critter gives you only one fast chance and iTTL lets you nail it. This reminds me an off topic matter called by friend Enrique Faber the "cruising parameters" which is to have the camera in a "usable" mode like 1/90, f8 and strobes at 1/4 should something appear and leave very fast giving you no time to change anything...

About your question "Is it important to have the facility for TTL flash with a DSLR?" I have to say that it may not be that important but I find wrong that with all the technical advances in the sport only a handful of brands offer it and it is always a weird working EXTRA when it should be like 1,2,3.

I shoot RAW + JPEG

When I first went to a dSLR from film I was sufficently concerned about the lack of ttl that I invested in a converter. This went swimming with the fishes [in more ways than one] and as a result I was forced into using manual. The big difference with digital is the immediate feedback. With film you wanted to know that you had the exposure about right so that you wasn't wasting the roll and the dive. It was only a case of +/- tweaks. With digital there is instant feedback and so ttl is only an advantage in quick grabs. For anything else you can retake the shot until the histogram looks good.

My replacement ttl converter is finally due by the end of the month. But having been without it for 6 months I am seriously wondering whether there is any point in using it. Chances are that I'll leave it in the box and hope that someone want to buy it. I think that this shows how important ttl is.

Raw every time.

However, those of you that dial in compensation - presumably you take a shot first to know what compensation you need.

What's the difference between that and dialing in compensation on a flashgun by altering the power output when it's in manual mode?

Well, without wanting to start an argument, here's my take on TTL and/or manual.

I've used both on my Canons. The advantages with TTL, which I use for macro but not w/a, is that for subjects of 'standard' reflectivity, the exposures are consistent and mostly pretty accurate. With manual, once you have got used to the power output, exposures are consistent regardless of subject reflectivity to a large extent. BOTH work and sometimes I use manual settings on my TTL flash because it was gets 'fooled' too much of the time when shooting with none 'standard' subject matter, other times I like the ease and simplicty of TTL.

But for wide-angle I use manual, as I simply don't always like the TTL 'decisions' made by camera and flash (it is after all a form of automation).

Both work, and both have advantages and disadvantages. Most experienced underwater shooters should have no problem using TTL or manual, but inexperienced shooters might find TTL helpful until they can sort out things better themselves. The importance bit of the posted question is up to the individual - its a mindset. If you really prefer automation and dialling in compensation then fine. If you prefer thinking that you are more in control and prefer manual, then fine again. The worst case scenario is to be blinkered into thinking that TTL is essential or than manual shows a higher level of photographic skill. Its actually all about the end result!

On TTL: I had it in film, lost it in digital and got it back recently again. I don't rely on it with WA subject but do quite a bit with the macro stuff, I find like many here that youre up and running faster and have a better bag of keepers at the end of the day. not being in the water as often as I would want to I tend to go for things that will give me back the maximum return for the bottom time spent. TTL in macro is one of them things. I found that I can survive without it in macro but as you get closer and closer that inverted square law principle really kick's in and minutes increment in distance make for dramatic change in exposure, I find the TTL copes with this phenomenon faster than my preocupied with the content mind does and that corrections are simpler since you usually do it once for the subject and then pretty much live with it for the duration of the sitting. On this I agree with Graig (it hurted to write that , I'm just kidding you) I rarely pre test my exposure but instead rely on a boy scout approach, before you get your nose in it, alway's be ready with the proper exposure setting for the situation at hand, then tweak if necessary.

On the subject of external TTL converter. I dream of the day that TTL circuit will integrated in the strobe, not externally in line and dangling all over the place and not inboard of the housing, when we buy a flash for our camera, we do not have to put a translator, converter or circuit of some sort between our Nikon and Canon, we just hook them up and they work, it would be nice to be able to do the same underwater.

On RAW: given how expensive u/w photo equipment is and the cost inplicated with most diving destination (at least for me and a bunch of other that do not live on the coast) I feel not shooting raw is criminal, you would think that setting up the stage to harvest the maximum would be the natural thing to do. I want to maximise my all too often short diving trip and shooting raw is part of my way of thinking.

When I first switched to D300 from F100, I was disappointed with my shots. I had thought that a TTL converter would be panacea for digital. Having sunk the $$$ on a converter, I m back now to shooting manual. Lesson learnt: learn to work your equipment.

John,

New DSLR user here...less than a year. I came from a P&S where it was possible, but difficult, to set a manual exposure. When I upgraded, I chose Inon for its optical s-ttl. I feel its very important for fluid situations where things happen quickly. I understand a little about lighting but always seem to find that the s-ttl does a better job than my best guess if I'm shooting manual. I've had very few situations, WA included, where the Inon's didn't work out well.

I used to shoot just RAW but now with cards so large and inexpensive I shoot RAW plus Jpeg

Yes, it is important to have the versatility that iTTL or eTTL offers, but it is not mandatory for getting good flash exposures underwater with a DSLR.

I use an Ikelite iTTL converter with my D2x in an Aquatica housing with dual SunStrobe DS200s.

While on land I generally shoot either aperture or shutter priority mode for about 85 to 90% of the exposures that I make, with the rest in manual mode. However, underwater the reverse is true, where I shoot 90 – 95% of the exposures that I make in manual mode, with the rest dedicated to any of the automatic exposure modes.

While I can “ballpark” a completely manual exposure with flash illumination pretty well underwater, I usually rely on the iTTL converter.

My modus operandi is to set the basic aperture with which I want to work with while in manual mode, then set the iTTL controller to auto as a preventive measure so I don't blow out any highlights due to camera / subject movements. After that, I use the shutter speed control knob to vary the amount of natural background illumination. To a certain extent, I dumb it right down and think of the shutter speed knob in terms of lightening or darkening the background depending on which way I turn the knob and my particular objectives when executing the shot.

I only shoot in uncompressed RAW mode.

Hope that helps.