S&S MDX40

Hi,

I just received my Sea & Sea MDX40 housing and I must say this is a fine piece of aluminum. The port that I had ordered (NX Standard Flat port), even though I was told it is for Nikon housings, it actually fits, except there's one small/minor thing( I shouldn't say it's minor though because I haven't taken it underwater.) After I secure the port's lock, and if I pull the port apart a bit( to see how tight it is), I noticed it actually moves back and forth about a mm or two. Maybe it's nothing, but since I saw that I have a little imp on my shoulder telling me "what if..."? Does this sound normal? Should I worry? Maybe I should take it to a pool without the camera and test, however, I'm debating whether to send it back for another port or pay for a pressure test?

The other thing I noticed is that the Erase button, does not reach the camera's button if I place the camera body all the way into the shoe. If I lock the camera 1 or 2 mm back (towards the back), it fits nicely(eye piece has been removed). Does this also sound normal? Does it have to be sitting all the way in? I noticed the camera's Erase button is a bit recessed as opposed to the other buttons(perhaps to avoid erasing pics accidentally?)

Other than that, even the 28-135mm USM lens the camera came with fits in the port. Not planning to shoot with that but with a Canon 60mm macro or a 100mm later on(w/ SX extension ring). Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Blueline

Hi,

 

After I secure the port's lock, and if I pull the port apart a bit( to see how tight it is), I noticed it actually moves back and forth about a mm or two.

 

Should I worry? Maybe I should take it to a pool without the camera and test,

 

The other thing I noticed is that the Erase button, does not reach the camera's button if I place the camera body all the way into the shoe.

 

Not planning to shoot with that but with a Canon 60mm macro or a 100mm later on(w/ SX extension ring). Blueline

Hi Blueline,

Congats on your new housing! I believe there will be a slight movement possible on the port. It's normal with an o-ring joint. Should you worry? all the time, cameras stay dry that way. Definitely take the housing and try it out in the pool without your camera anyway. Most of the folks I know do it with the camera installed before every dive too. I like to use the resort's pool in the morning on the way to the boat. Others like to use the rinse tank before a dive just to be confident.

I'll have to check out the erase button next time I have the rig together. I can say though that I've never used it underwater. I've had too many pictures that I thought were useless turn out to have something worth keeping. I just wait till I'm back on a laptop to delete anything. It should work though.

Highly recommend the 60mm if your just starting out, great tack sharp lens thats great for fish and macro subjects.

Have fun with the new rig!

Steve

I just dove my mdx-40d with the NX standard flat port yesterday and took a look at the connection between the port and the housing - there is a little bit of play, but nothing that would concern me. Once you're in the water, pressure is going to push the port back against the housing anyways so it wont be any movement. As always, leak test your housing, but it should be god.

As far as the erase button, mine reaches fine. The first time I mounted the camera in the housing, a few back buttons did not seem to quite reach correctly, but since then I've never had an issue. It may not have been lined up quite right when you put it in the first time.

Good luck!

Thanks Steve/bacripe,

I called the place I bought the housing from and was told to check with Sea & Sea in CA. I was given a ph # so I will check with them asapl. I really don't think it's defective, since Bacripe(Brian?) below experienced the same with his port. But just for peace of mind, I'll check with S&S.

I usually use my bath tub or rinse tank on the boat to make sure things are ok. I also store O-rings in zip lock bags when the setup is stored for extended periods(unfortuantely, I only dive every couple months or so.) Never lost a camera due to flooding(been diving for 9 years), but on this one I plan on buying flood insurance just in case.

You got a point with the erase button...

Given the weight of the housing/camera/strobe, do you guys usually dive with less weight? I figured, I use 10-12 lbs of weight when I dive(warm water) and the setup must be close to that.

Steve,

I also looked at the Tokina 35mm ATX lens (I liked some of the images I've seen, but not many people use it, or at least as many as the ones using the Canon 60mm or 100mm. )

Blueline

Given the weight of the housing/camera/strobe, do you guys usually dive with less weight? I figured, I use 10-12 lbs of weight when I dive(warm water) and the setup must be close to that.

Once you get it in the ocean you'll be surprised at how easy it is to maneuver. Mine will float with the dome and no strobes. I use the UCLS flotation arms to help keep the CG low. Feels fine in the water. I do wish we had a cool yellow hand strap like the big boys and their Subals. It would help keep the pressure off the wrist. With the big dome for the WA it wants to rotate nose up.

Just to be clear, I don't weight any different with the camera.

Have fun,

Steve

With the big dome, I have a couple of small custom lead weights stuck to the back of the dome (I'll try and get some pictures up - I'm travelling at the moment) which help to keep the dome from rotating up and make the setup slightly negative (housing/dome with ULCS arms and dual YS-120s). With the optical glass dome, there isn't any need for weights on the dome. Depending on your strobes, you may feel differently (I think the 120s are a little bouyant).

As far as removing weight from your belt, I wouldn't expect to. The housing set-up may weight 10-12 pounds in the air, but there is air space inside which balances it out in the water.

The hand strap is a great idea too - I had on on a Seatool housing, and it was great. I may have to find a way to mount one on my housing...

Good luck!

Brian

Steve,

That's what I was thinking..some kind of strap or lanyard(?).

Well, I called S&S today and was told the port is made that way to vend some air/pressure during air travel, otherwise the glass would pop from the pressure( Boyle's law?) I'm not sure I fully understand that, but as I said there's gotta be a reason for the way it's designed. That said, when I came home I filled the bath tub with water and submerged it for 10 mins. No leak (even though it probably had minimal pressure). I thought that can simulate a bit the rinse tank on a boat.

Brian,

This will be a new thing for me; previously I was shooting with an Oly 5050+ Inon D-2000W, so the whole setup was very compact, easy to maneuver. I'll keep what you said in mind and not remove any weight. Better be a bit negative than the other way around.

If I may ask, what kind of base adapters do you guys use with the housing? ULCS? I bought a Fantasea base adapter from a friend that slides on top, however, it's a little loose. I was thinking a ULCS Base Adapter would be a better solution. i.e

http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=p...products_id=458

Thanks,

Blueline

I use this one http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=p...products_id=435

Check out this thread for some different ideas on a strap/handle. When you get to the second page you'll see my homemade lanyard I hook to the BC, when I'm not diving it becomes a handle. I think there is a shot of the rig in there too. Showing the base adaptors installed http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...23012&st=20

Have fun!

Steve

I placed an order for this today: http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=p...products_id=427

That's what they advised me to get. I guess there's quite a few base adapters that fit those handles.

Good idea about the home made lanyard. I need to make one of those too.

Thanks for the advice. Have fun too!

Blueline