Ditto on the set to manual on both the housing and the strobes for manual shooting, otherwise you'll get bad results.
Took me ages to figure that out.
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Ditto on the set to manual on both the housing and the strobes for manual shooting, otherwise you'll get bad results.
Took me ages to figure that out.
Hi Steve
Distance was about 1m - same synch cords - everything as per a dive. TTL seems to work on different apertures, distances etc so that is god news. I think it might either have something to do with the internal flash settings or indeed Cerianthus' post below might be bang on.
However I really need to tst again underwater to put all the detective work to the test. No rum for breakfast then . .
Thanks again
PS - My internet more sporadic now!
Your trying to shoot macro in a distance of 1m?
I use a distance of 0,1 to 0.3m from the flat dome for macro, beyond that I can understand you get black pictures.
My setup for macro is 1/100(1/160) from Aperture 16 and up to 32. My 2 Inon Z-240 is on full power. Canon 20D with Ikelite UWhousing. EF 100mm f:2.8 Macro
This picture is about 10 cm from the dome 1/100 Aperture 16 Iso100

Well it depends what I'm shooting. For example a Ghost pipe fish wont fit in frame unless I back off. I seem to be making headway.
Better lighting yesterday -always room for improvement.
Nextwo - do you use manual or autofocus?
Your trying to shoot macro in a distance of 1m?I use a distance of 0,1 to 0.3m from the flat dome for macro, beyond that I can understand you get black pictures.
My setup for macro is 1/100(1/160) from Aperture 16 and up to 32. My 2 Inon Z-240 is on full power. Canon 20D with Ikelite UWhousing. EF 100mm f:2.8 Macro
This picture is about 10 cm from the dome 1/100 Aperture 16 Iso100
I use AF.
Glad it's working out, can you share what you finally did so others who are looking can learn too?
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Steve
Ha! Well diving full of rum is the main thing.
Actually it seems to be a combination of things. I went through all the settings in my camera and made sure everything on my 40D and housing should be as they seem.
Secondly I have had a habit recently of switching between TTL and Manual - I've shot mainly on the latter but over the last few dives have learnt to trust the former and that has helped.
As remedial as it sounds I maneuvered my strobe arms to eek out every last inch (or millimetre) getting my strobes out parallel with the lens which probably gave me an important amount of light for certain subjects.
I also removed my diffusers and was surprised that this gave me a significant and immediate improvement.
As advised above I will concede some ISO but with the above I generally get to stick on 200.
Finally, I've also been luckier in my diving in that I have managed some good dives with friends where I can stay on one anemone as long as I like, working the camera without worrying about a queue of other snappers or guides disappearing into the blue.
I still find the AF pretty slow but that is macro I suppose.
Cheers!
Glad it's working out, can you share what you finally did so others who are looking can learn too?
Steve
I found out with a focus light the AF is much faster.
Dag
I found out with a focus light the AF is much faster.
Dag
With the 100 macro for real close ups, i find the AF to be erratic at best. I use AF to get in the ballpark of focus, and then use camera movement to get the focus where I want it. However, with a focus light, it is much easier to find the ballpark!
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