Tokina 11-16 shots

Lens is very shap in the cent , but does fall off in sharpness at the corners.

using Aquatica D300, 18462 extension ring and 9.25" dome, no diopters

Center very sharp, good color, edges fuzzy, I expect that I may not have the right extension ring or will need a diopter.

Will post some shots later

i've used mine with the Canon 20D and 8 inch Aquatica port. with 18453 ring (recommended by Aquatica for the Canon 10-22) and +2 diopter, my corners are very bad. subsequent tests indicate that the entrance pupil for both of these lenses is about at the front surface of the lens which would require something like a 18462 + 18463. i'm getting ready to order another extension ring, but would love to have more information on anyone using the Tokina 11-16 or Canon 10-22. the Tokina works great on land but is not yet performing for me UW

Something else to check - the actual dome radius. Not familiar with Aquatica domes, but if it is advertised as a 180 deg dome, it is really? I know my Nexus 170 port looks 180 deg but is not. This must be taken into account in determining the proper extension ring. May or may not be an issue in your case. Try more diopter - my 12-24 requires a +4.

Not much difference in picture quality from the 11-16 to the 12-24 nikon. Both are a little soft in the corners. Conditions here are bad, lots of silt in the water with poor viz.

Also still having exposure/sinc issues with my d300, over exposed 1-2 stops, 2 others diving with me with d300's are also having the same problems. I had sent in my d300 to nikon for repair for this problem, just got it back before the trip with no improvement in exposure. using newest firmware ver 1.10 problems seem to have started after that.

Will be sending it back to nikon

Not much difference in picture quality from the 11-16 to the 12-24 nikon. Both are a little soft in the corners. Conditions here are bad, lots of silt in the water with poor viz.

Also still having exposure/sinc issues with my d300, over exposed 1-2 stops, 2 others diving with me with d300's are also having the same problems. I had sent in my d300 to nikon for repair for this problem, just got it back before the trip with no improvement in exposure. using newest firmware ver 1.10 problems seem to have started after that.

Will be sending it back to nikon

Is the exposure issue only underwater? For the time being why not just set the EV to -2?

I think a dioptre will be essential as I think it is for the 12-24.

What do you mean by overexposure issues? You would only be having those if you let the CAMERA decide the exposure, right? You should probably be shooting in manual exposure for wideangle - I think you'll get better results. Any kind of auto-exposure mode never seems to get it right for wideangle - the camera thinks it's above water and tries to make the water look like a blue sky.

Cheers

James

Occy has reported his D300 over exposure issues before. They occur on land and UW and seem to be body related. See here:

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29370

I guess that this was first dive after the service. So he wanted to check if the camera was OK. I presume it was fine on land - it would have been sensible to test the camera on land before diving.

Anyway, considering he knows his camera is not performing as he would like, I too, am also surprised he persists with auto exposure mode. Shooting in manual would solve these issues.

Alex

I have been shooting manual. Not auto exposure.

But i am using ttl under water.

Did some surface tests before I left and found it was still overexposing. Due to time constraints i elected to take the camera with me. I am using exposure compensation which gives me the ability to correct the exposures.

Two others on this trip were having the same problems.

But neither took them in for repair as yet.

I have been shooting manual. Not auto exposure.

But i am using ttl under water.

Did some surface tests before I left and found it was still overexposing. Due to time constraints i elected to take the camera with me. I am using exposure compensation which gives me the ability to correct the exposures.

Two others on this trip were having the same problems.

But neither took them in for repair as yet.

Peter,

Have you tried turning you exposure control knob down on your Sea & Sea TTL?

Or you could just go to manual

Elmer

Andy having same problem and he is using ikelites, easy to correct with exposure compensation in the camera. adjusting ttl on the sea and sea does not appear to change the overexposure.

It seems to be an internal camera thing, firmware?

Hello Octopus,

I have used a lot the sea&sea iTTL converter for YS250pros. I use it with D200 and D300 and always had to underexpose in the camera but never thought it to be an issue as it was always consistent. Alex tried the same strobes/converter with his D2X and did not have to correct the exposure at all. Try to shoot on land with the in-camera flash or an SB800 to check if it is a camera problem.

I have done the land shoots with the camera and using the sb-800 same problem, the other two guys on the trip using d300s are having the same problem, one has an ikelite converter and the other uses inons with fiberoptics and no converter. Did not want to take over the thread with this just mentioned in passing.

Again very correctable using in camera exposure comp. kind of weird that ever since I loaded the 1.10 firmware it did this

Occy has reported his D300 over exposure issues before. They occur on land and UW and seem to be body related. See here:

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29370

 

 

Alex

Interesting thread as I had posted a similar issue with my Tokina 12-24 several months ago (http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25304), but general consensus was that major over-exposure both UW and on land (well shooting from the boat with the D300 in its housing) was a probable result of sticky aperture blades.

I sent the lens back to Nakamura-san at Tokina Tokyo, the lens was fully stripped and checked - no ploblem !

I was shooting Aperture priority mode at a depth of 3-4 metres when this occurred, then switched to manual and dialled in shutter speed/aperture to get a decent exposure and carried on diving. The fact that it happened on the boat after the dive kinda spooked me.

I think I'll go back and check the settings since I *know* I varied the aperture to get rid of the overexposure, but may have left the D300 in Aperture priority mode while I did it.

Steve

Does the problem happen with all lenses? Could it be a non-Nikon lens / electronics issue? (Just a thought)

Lens is very shap in the cent , but does fall off in sharpness at the corners.

using Aquatica D300, 18462 extension ring and 9.25" dome, no diopters

Center very sharp, good color, edges fuzzy, I expect that I may not have the right extension ring or will need a diopter.

Will post some shots later

Some recent examples with my 11-16

Canon 40D, Tokina 11-16mm @12mm, +2 filter, no strobes, magic filter, f11, 1/160 sec, iso400

Canon 40D, Tokina 11-16mm @12mm, +2 filter, 2x Inon Z240's, f11, 1/125 sec, iso100

The edges aren't as sharp as the centre, as expected, but I wouldn't say they're too fuzzy (and at a level I'm happy with). Of course, that's at f11. Overall, I do like this lens, and the magic filter is something that I'm also liking with it. I also wasn't planning on purchasing a zoom gear for the lens, given the limited range, but now that I'm using it more, I'm thinking I will.

I've posted before what Aquatica extenstion rings I'm using. Not sure which off the top of my head, but, they seem to do the job quiet well.

As for the over exposing thing, unless you're talking about TTL doing this (I shoot manual), I'm not sure how this could be happening if you're in M mode?

Ryan.

f9 125th inons on ttl iso 200

I like the lens so far, also using the 18462 extension ring.

I once used the Ikelite iTTL converter for my D2X (in Nexus housing) with 2 DS-200 strobes. I tested the rig on land, and the TTL was quite accurate, but had some issues in water.

What I experienced was that when shooting e.g. big sea fan or onto a reef wall, TTL was accurate. On the other hand, shooting a fish in the middle of water, it normally overexposed. Later on I realized that the fish only presented a small area of the whole scene, and the amount of light from the fish reflected back TTL to the metering system was so little that the camera ordered the strobes to fire more light and made the shot overexposed.

I now use iTTL 100% for marco, but sometime swithch to manual for wide angle shots.

Just my 2 cents.

Edward

Octopus,

i saw that you have both tokinas 10-17 and 11-16. Wich do you prefer for underwater shots?