Carol,
What system were you using? This image is Fisheye, but some of your others appear not to be.
I am taking a Nikon D300, a 12-24, and a 10-17. For surface I will be using a 70-300 only as my 18-200 just quit.
Do you prefer a fish eye over rectilinear?
Thanks again.
In the beginning I was only going to take the Tokina 10-17 (I love that lens!!) on my d300 it is awesome. But, Tony Wu suggested I start with a lens "that has a less demanding perspective". So I bought Peter Rowlands' 12-24 and set it up just as he and Alex Mustard suggested w/ +3 diopter behind my Subal 8" FE dome w/ 40mm ex ring (they both use Subals too).
Most people that had d200 & d300, in fact everyone that had those cameras, except one (she used Nikon 16mm), used the 12-24 (with or without diopter). I think it depends on the diopter thing, the larger domes (larger than the Subal 8" dome) seemed to do the best w/o diopter. My corners were just fine with the 12-24 with +3 and 43mm (15 + 28) of Subal ex rings + Subal 8" FE dome.
That said I did not like shooting with the 12-24 very much at all. It served it's purpose though, as in the beginning I just wanted to get images of whales, but I sorely missed the amount of light and contrast you get with the Tokina 10-17 - not just from being close, but the lens itself lets in so much more light and it was rainy/cloudy a lot so I sorely needed more light! Remember I had 21 days on the water, so after the first 7 or so days I'd had it with the 12-24, as I just wasn't happy with the lens for reasons stated. It wasn't bad, it just wasn't great. For the entire 14 underwater days left of my trip, I put the Tokina 10-17 FE on and never took it off. Sure, I missed some shots of the whales where I could have zoomed with the 12-24 (case in point, behavior referenced above) but the shots I got where I had to zoom with the 12-24 were not that great anyway. So I just waited for opportunities and whales that were relaxed and the water was clear so I could use the Tokina 10-17. It paid off, I missed some shots for sure - but the quality of shots that I'm keeping improved greatly.
That said, I don't think you will have enough time to learn how to get close enough to whales with the Tokina 10-17? It takes some practice and listening to dive guides, whales can be surprisingly skittish for their size and everyone is very cognizant about not disturbing the whales. But, maybe your trip leader can advise you better than me? Is it Darren? Tony's advice was definitely to start out with the 12-24 for the first few days.
Good Luck!!! Carol
PS - all my whale images posted so far, here, Flickr or on my site, have been with the Tokina 10-17. Also, from a Canon perspective here is a post by Tony Wu on what he uses mostly. I consider his humpback whale images to be among the best quality I've seen and one thing is, I do think his Pro One dome does make a difference with the demanding lighting aspects of humpback whale photography.
Equipment Note - Camera Housings [TonyWuBlog.com]
PPS - thanks all others for your comments! I guess you could say I had a *whale* of a time!!! (Sorry, I couldn't resist...) 