HI, I WANT TO BUY A SUBAL HOUSING FOR MY D300, AND I ASKED TO SUBAL IF IT'S POSSIBLE TO USE TOKINA 10-17MM BEHIND A 6" DOME AND THEY ANSWER THAT THEY RECOMMEND 8" DOMEPORT. I LIKE BOTH DOMEPORTS (I HAVE THEM IN IKELITE) BUT I PREFER 6". In subal they told me that they have not tested tokina 10-17 in 6" dome.
Can you help me with this?? Is it possible to use Subal 6" with tokina 10-17?? and whta EXR do I need??
I dive in Chile with lot of current waters, and rocks, so this way i prefer 6" domeports.
Yes, I have used a 6" DP-SWB with the Tokina 10-17 FE and it does work but you will have some significant vignetting at the wide end. At somewhere between 11 & 12mm the vignetting disappears. I've ground my hood down but haven't been able to grind off enough to eliminate the vignetting and I suspect that the conical back is pushing the focal point of the dome too far forward. Because of the conical back, no extension ring is needed (it provides about 20mm of extension).
I originally used my Tokina 10-17 behind the 6" SWC dome port with no extension ring. It worked fine except for some vignetting in the 10-11 mm range.
Thanks Gudge, I have the sigma sigma 17-70 non HSM version, like you, is it possible to use this lens with subal 6" dome?.
About the tokina I don't know what to do, I like the 6" dome.
Thanks Gudge, I have the sigma sigma 17-70 non HSM version, like you, is it possible to use this lens with subal 6" dome?.
Yes, I was happy with the results. With the SWC dome port I used a 40mm extension. The SWB dome port has a shorter body than the SWC and will need a longer extension.
About the tokina I don't know what to do, I like the 6" dome.
Try contacting Ryan from Reef Photo and Video he should be able to give you some more advice. Reading BottomTime's post about his experience with the 6" dome, he says he is using the SWB dome port then goes on to describe it as having a conical back which is what the SWC dome port has, Ryan may be able to give you some more advice on what is the best way to go. I have a friend using the SWB dome port with the 10-17 in a Subal housing with no extension ring and he doesn't have a vignetting problem. However, he is using a Canon 20D and it's 1.6 crop factor gives a slightly narrower field of view than with the D300's 1.5 crop factor.
Yes, I was happy with the results. With the SWC dome port I used a 40mm extension. The SWB dome port has a shorter body than the SWC and will need a longer extension.
Try contacting Ryan from Reef Photo and Video he should be able to give you some more advice. Reading BottomTime's post about his experience with the 6" dome, he says he is using the SWB dome port then goes on to describe it as having a conical back which is what the SWC dome port has, Ryan may be able to give you some more advice on what is the best way to go. I have a friend using the SWB dome port with the 10-17 in a Subal housing with no extension ring and he doesn't have a vignetting problem. However, he is using a Canon 20D and it's 1.6 crop factor gives a slightly narrower field of view than with the D300's 1.5 crop factor.
I talked to Ryan this week about using the 6" with the Tokina 10-17 on my Canon 40D and he said it would vignette at the wide end. But it's interesting to hear you say a friend is using their 20D with one. Do you have a link to any photos? I'm either upgrading my housing to a Sea & Sea or Subal. I want the Subal but Sea & Sea offers more dome port selection. I use the 10-17 almost exclusively shooting wrecks but I have a tougher time lighting in our Great Lakes water with a larger dome port.
But it's interesting to hear you say a friend is using their 20D with one. Do you have a link to any photos?
No, he's not really into posting stuff on the web. After sitting and having a think about it I suddenly remembered that he had to do a bit of surgery on the shade of his SWB dome port to prevent vignetting.
No, he's not really into posting stuff on the web. After sitting and having a think about it I suddenly remembered that he had to do a bit of surgery on the shade of his SWB dome port to prevent vignetting.
I was wondering about that. I'm also wondering if it's worth giving it a go. The 8" ports are so expensive and I think the 6" would be so much easier to light. I'm just wondering how difficult the surgery would be. Maybe I'll talk to Ryan about it. I'm really wanting the Subal housing but am just not sure if it's worth the extra money, even considering the smoking deal I can get on the Subal.
just about to buy a fisheye either the tokina or canon 15mm, how do u find the tokina? its a bit cheaper and am buying another lense so its on the plus side at the minute... also have the 6in dome port so keen to find out how u went with it!
just about to buy a fisheye either the tokina or canon 15mm, how do u find the tokina?
I love it, it's my favourite lens to use underwater.
I was wondering about that. I'm also wondering if it's worth giving it a go. The 8" ports are so expensive and I think the 6" would be so much easier to light. I'm just wondering how difficult the surgery would be. Maybe I'll talk to Ryan about it. I'm really wanting the Subal housing but am just not sure if it's worth the extra money, even considering the smoking deal I can get on the Subal.
I talked to ryan of reefphoto, and he said that at the beggining of november there will be a 100mm dome for tokina 10-17mm.
I love it, it's my favourite lens to use underwater.
Do you know if the shade on the SWB is removeable?
Do you know if the shade on the SWB is removeable?
I have no idea, I've never seen one in the flesh. If it's similar construction to the SWC the answer is no.
I have no idea, I've never seen one in the flesh. If it's similar construction to the SWC the answer is no.
Thanks for the info. I really would like to get the Subal but I like that Sea and Sea has more dome port options.
Do you know if the shade on the SWB is removeable?
No, it isn't. The shade and the mount are all one piece. I think the SWB and the SWC are very similar, but the conical mounts provide slightly different extensions to them. I've recently started looking into getting a custom mount machined so that I could use the glass with fish-eye lenses. Anyone by any chance an expert with a CAD package? Anyone know what material the mounts are made of so that I can have a custom port machined out of the same material?
After sitting and having a think about it I suddenly remembered that he had to do a bit of surgery on the shade of his SWB dome port to prevent vignetting.
My memory isn't what it used to be. I just got word from my friend using the SWB with a Tokina 10-17 on a Canon 20D in a Subal housing. He hasn't done surgery on the shade and doesn't have a problem with vignetting. Perhaps it's only a problem with Nikon's slightly wider field of view due to its crop factor of 1.5 (vs Canon's 1.6).
My memory isn't what it used to be. I just got word from my friend using the SWB with a Tokina 10-17 on a Canon 20D in a Subal housing. He hasn't done surgery on the shade and doesn't have a problem with vignetting. Perhaps it's only a problem with Nikon's slightly wider field of view due to its crop factor of 1.5 (vs Canon's 1.6).
Great to know, thanks. I just ordered my Subal tonight but held off on the port. The hunt for an SWB begins.
I use the Subal DP-54 B 4" dome with my Tokina 10-17. It's small and good for close-up wide angle as you can get the light around it. I also use a 6" SWB and this gives some vignetting at 10mm, gone at 11.
--Rob
Hi all,
I use the Subal DP-54 B 4" dome with my Tokina 10-17. It's small and good for close-up wide angle as you can get the light around it. I also use a 6" SWB and this gives some vignetting at 10mm, gone at 11.
--Rob
Hi Rob, do you use an EXR with the DP54B and if so - what size?
I just got word from my friend using the SWB with a Tokina 10-17 on a Canon 20D in a Subal housing. He hasn't done surgery on the shade and doesn't have a problem with vignetting. Perhaps it's only a problem with Nikon's slightly wider field of view due to its crop factor of 1.5 (vs Canon's 1.6).
