Ikelite housings versus non-Ikelite

I am looking for a DSLR housing for my new Nikon D90. I currently use two Ikelite DS125 strobes, thus was considering getting the Ikelite housing for TTL connection purposes. I have noticed from reading many posts in this section that it seems as if many DSLR owners prefer other housing brands. (I am aware that Ikelite housings have upgraded their ports from two to four clamps.)

Question: Would there be any particular reason to steer clear of Ikelite housings for DSLRs, and if so, can other housing brands accommodate TTL with Ikelite strobes?

I am looking for a DSLR housing for my new Nikon D90. I currently use two Ikelite DS125 strobes, thus was considering getting the Ikelite housing for TTL connection purposes. I have noticed from reading many posts in this section that it seems as if many DSLR owners prefer other housing brands. (I am aware that Ikelite housings have upgraded their ports from two to four clamps.)

Question: Would there be any particular reason to steer clear of Ikelite housings for DSLRs, and if so, can other housing brands accommodate TTL with Ikelite strobes?

You can always get an external ikelite TTL converter to add to any other housing.

AMW,

You'll find a lot of threads here about housing brands and whether or not the more expensive housings are worth the premium prices. Speaking very generally, people like the elegant ergonomics, low weight, and depth-defying durability of the various aluminum housings, whereas even Ikelite fans will admit that their housings are bulky and heavy and far from sexy. On the other hand, some people prefer Ikelite's acrylic housings because you can see into just about any part of the housing without opening it up, which helps if you get nervous about leaks or moisture. And of course, you've got TTL functionality and no worries about working with the Ikelite strobes. I have a second-hand Ikelite housing, and I must admit that when I happened upon Backscatter in Monterey last September and I handled a few of the housings that are $1k or $2k more than mine, I knew right away what all the fuss was about. But in terms of functionality, Ikelites are easy to operate, easy to take care of, and very affordable.

Another consideration is the lenses you want to take underwater. Some of the non-Ikelite housings allow for large diameter lenses whereas Ikelite's sometimes do not. You should look at Ikelite's port chart for Nikon and look for notes that say "Lens diameter is too large to operate in port system." If you have any of those lenses, you can't use them in Ikelite housings.

An Aquatica for your D90 isn't all that much more money than the Ikelite. Here are your D90 options at Backscatter, for example.

-Dan

AMW,

i have 2 Ikelite housings, one for my Fuji E900 and one for my Nikon D90 with one Ikelite DS-125 flash working in TTL with the D90.

I like the transparent housing because it let you see the camera, water, moisture, and where the pins and arms are and what they do.

I never had any issue wit one of the housings even if i would like to have (just for peace of mind) the 4 clamp port.

A aluminium housing is definitely more sexy and rugged, but the huge price difference makes the Ikelite housing a winner.

I am currently investigating about a G10/11 and i would like to have it with a aluminium housing because this cam would be my every day work camera

to take pictures of my students, clients and to be prepared for the unexpected (what happens almost daily here) so i need it as rugged as possible.

Chris Karrer

Ikelite housings are very successful not because they are the very best but because they offer very good value for money. If money is no issue or you get to dive a lot, the extra money on an aluminum housing is well spend. However, if you get to take only one dive holiday per year and spending 1 or 2K extra on a housing means one less holiday then it becomes quite a different story. Similarly, would you be better of with a Canon 7D and Ikelite housing or a Canon 550 in an aluminum housing. Again, if money is no issue or you dive enough to make it worth it you would simply get the 7D in an aluminum housing. But if you have to consider these trade-offs then Ikelite makes very fine housings and, although it is nice to think better equipment would instantly make me a Pro, I know its not the size of the housing but the way you use it

Bart

AMW,

i have 2 Ikelite housings, one for my Fuji E900 and one for my Nikon D90 with one Ikelite DS-125 flash working in TTL with the D90.

I like the transparent housing because it let you see the camera, water, moisture, and where the pins and arms are and what they do.

I never had any issue wit one of the housings even if i would like to have (just for peace of mind) the 4 clamp port.

A aluminium housing is definitely more sexy and rugged, but the huge price difference makes the Ikelite housing a winner.

I am currently investigating about a G10/11 and i would like to have it with a aluminium housing because this cam would be my every day work camera

to take pictures of my students, clients and to be prepared for the unexpected (what happens almost daily here) so i need it as rugged as possible.

Chris Karrer

If you are rich, buy an aluminum housing with a ttl converter for your strobes.

I am not rich. If I already owned 2 ikelite strobes and their associated sync cords, I'd buy an Ikelite housing. A TTL converter for aluminum housing is about $500+. Ikelite housings are big, but are very good. ( I would invest in a second sync cord though if I were using Ikelite strobes ) If I didn't already own Ikelite strobes, then an aluminum housing with Inon strobes and fiber optics would be tempting. Ikelite battery packs, smart chargers, and sync cords are expensive, at least for my budget. However, most people really like Ikelite strobes for wide angle coverage and color temperature. Too bad they don't work with fiber optics.

(BTW, I am still diving with a 7 year old point and shoot camera )

Hi,

I have been using Ikleite housing for D90 and I am very pleased with its performance. Regarding size, believe it or not, the housing itself it's actually narrower than a Subal housing, about the same heigth and a liitle deeper, it's the big handles what gives the impression of being bulky.

You could buy an external TTL adapter for any housing, but what you can't get is a dial to manually control the power of two strobes with your thumb while holding the handle. This is a big plus for wide angle with Ikelite.

A major consideration for me is the "workability" of the housing. What does it take to change the memory card or the camera battery? On some housings, you just pop open the back, and do it. On others you have to take the camera out of the housing, and on still others, you have to even take the lens and gear off the camera! Also, what does it take to change lenses? Can you just pop the port off and change lenses, or do you have to take the camera out of the housing?

That's something that I consider a very important consideration and a major factor in my move to a more expensive housing.

Cheers

James

Glasseye Snapper summarized well.

Would there be any particular reason to steer clear of Ikelite housings for DSLRs, and if so, can other housing brands accommodate TTL with Ikelite strobes?

Steer clear? Not really. It's just that you lose some ergonomics with the Ikelite. You gain a pocket full of cash. Ikelite makes a TTL converter for use on other housings. I have one. It has failed 4 times. It's an unreliable piece of crap. One trip it lasted until the second to last day. Wheeh!!!

My stock recommendation: If you can afford an aluminum housing, buy one. If you can't, buy an Ikelite and shoot away. You won't even know about the quirks, because you have no other reference.

Thank you for your feedback DuncanS, danielanddrewclem, ChrigelKarrer, Glasseye Snapper, Don in Colorado, blueglass, james, & scorpio-fish. I really appreciate all of you taking the time to answer my questions. Definitely very good feedback which I will utilize!

As an Ikelite user, this is what I notice when I'm using my rig next to others with a Subal/Aquatica/Sea&Sea/etc.

- The Ike is bigger. Not as much as you would think, but yes slightly larger. I had mine sitting next to an Aquatica on the camera table and it's just a bit larger.

- The Ike is heavier. This is true. The aluminum Aquatica I was comparing it to seemed much lighter when I picked it up. Of course, whereas my Ike is just slightly negative by itself without strobes, the Aquatica is more negative in the water. Not a big deal for either one, but just something to know if you like to one-hand shoot like I do. I believe an aluminum housing will require more buoyancy aids than an Ike. Well, unless you have HUGE arms

- The Ike is easier to get a verifiable seal. Being able to see the o-ring seal AND you can tip it over to the side and very easily see if there is any water seepage into the housing.

- People say Ike makes it hard to change battery and memory card. Not any more. On my Ike-housed D70, I did have to take the camera off the housing back mount to change either one, they fixed this on their D300 implementation and you can leave the camera attached. However, there can be other issues with pulling a camera in and out of the housing (see next bullet).

- People say Ike's are complicated when mounting lenses. This is true for any zoom lens on the Ike housing. You have to put the camera into the housing from the back, then put the zoom ring into the front of the housing with the port off and then mount the port. Most aluminum housings mount the zoom ring to the lens and can be inserted from the back of the housing making for an easier ingress/egress. Is this a huge deal? Not really, I can change lenses and ports in just a couple of minutes. And if it's the macro 60 or 105 lens you don't have any zoom ring at all, so it's quick.

- People say Ike's port mount is inferior. Quite frankly, I never liked Ike's two-point port mount. It never failed me or caused a problem, but it just seemed "flimsy" in comparison to the locking bayonet or screw mount on most other housings (screw mounts have their own issues however). But since I had Ike upgrade my housing with the new 4 lock port mount, it's VERY solid and quick and easy.

So, net result, I will keep my Ike because it's actually very easy to use and maintain. It's very easy to handle underwater. With two DS-125's, it is dead simple to adjust strobe power with one knob on the back of the housing for two strobes. If you only dive maybe two weeks per year like me, this is a great solution considering the Ike housing was $1425 vs. an Aquatica at $2700, Sea&sea at $3500 and a Subal at I-don't-want-to-know. Saving $1300 means another scuba trip for me and that's worth it. Oh and that's just for the housing BTW -- ports for the other brands are about twice the price of Ike ports.

If I had the bucks would I buy an aluminum housing instead? You bet, but being a land-locked amateur it's just too expensive for the minimal benefits I would receive. There is a certain "cachet" to owning an Aluminum housing and if that kind of thing is important to you, sort of like owning a BMW instead of a Subaru WRX, then by all means, go aluminum. I really only care about the photos.

OH and there is one additional benefit to buying an Ike. I don't have to figure out whether to say Al- Loom - I - Num vs. Al - U - Min- I -Um. My apologies to our British Friends.

Just my two cents. What's really important is knowing your gear intimately so you are not fumbling around with it when that Whale Shark comes by with a mermaid riding it

You can get Ikelite bulkheads in Subal and Aquatica housings. Subal has a iTTL converter. Don't know about other housings, but I'll bet some on them offer the option.

I much prefer the Ikelite bulkheads to those with Nikonos style connectors. I've never had a problem with an Ikelite bulkhead. Multiple problems with Nikonos style bulkheads going back to Nikonos IVa.

The Ikelite housings are the best option in a plastic housing and the most affordable.

OH and there is one additional benefit to buying an Ike. I don't have to figure out whether to say Al- Loom - I - Num vs. Al - U - Min- I -Um. My apologies to our British Friends.

HAHA!

Brilliant excuse for sticking with Ike! And as a British citizen i can hold up 'our' hands and say for once you americans do have it right. The correct term in Aluminum, but we added the extra I at the end to fit with the sounds of the rest of the periodic table i.e sodium, codium etc. But lets not mention the rest of your 'language' eh?

As for the rest of the topic, i think this has been covered. If you have the cash to spend, and you will use your product, spend it. If you want to have aluminum housing for the sake it looks good on the boat and people may think higher of you or whatever, and have cash to splash... Can u lend us a few bucks?

Olly

I own both the d70 and d300 Ikelite housings. The d70 was my first DSLR, but when I upgraded to the d300 I did not consider anything other than Ikelite. Cost was not a limitation, but getting a great value is certainly a nice feature. I used each housing for over 3+ years and put many hundreds of dives on them. I probably dive once or twice a month and do around 80-100 dives a year, always with the camera. The biggest glitches I've had with my Ikelites involved me leaving the lens cap on the camera.

What do I like about the Ike?

* Reliable

* Amazing service

* Useful improvements to existing housings at a very fair cost

* Ease of use

* Great features like TTL standard

Their are lots of great options, but I am happy with the Ikelite.

If you are thinking of ultra wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) angle work, then lens compatibility and dome placement are critical factors if you want the best possible results on the edge of frame.

But lets not mention the rest of your 'language' eh?

Yes and it seems to get worse with each passing day! I blame non-divers.

i just recently got the AD 90 from aquatica and think that it represents excellent value for money. And as someone said earlier there is not a lot of difference between the price of the Ikelite housing compared to the aquatica.

This is my second aquatica housing and i had the last one for years without a single issue...

i use an ikelite for the 40D, and also for the 350D previously. personally i think it's the best bang for the buck, and also easier for people new to underwater photography to handle strobes and all. it comes built in with a TTL converter and if used with ikelite strobes, shooting is a breeze.

if you know what you're doing with manual strobes, it's probably not a big benefit (not going to into the whole TTL or no TTL thing). but to me, the sheer convenience and just getting the shot was great for me. typically i get in about 5-6 different shots and compositions when my friends are still fiddling with their strobes and figuring out the right power settings.

the clear acrylic also made it easy for me to spot a minor flood on my previous trip. midway through the dive i saw some condensation on the housing. i couldn't tell where it was flooding, but i could see it was only a minor one. i could tell it wasn't serious, so i continued the dive.

2 benefits here: first i could determine if it's a serious flood rather than abort the dive right away and feeling really really sorry for myself during the safety stop. second, the larger housing actually gave the water more space to roll around without damaging any electronics.

that said, i have 1 pet peeve with the ikelite system when used with my 100mm macro lens. when putting on the port, the tight fit means 3 out of 10 times, it will bump the focus limit switch from 0.31m to 0.48m, which means I effectively lose 1:1 macro for that dive. very, very frustrating especially when you spot boxer crabs and can't do 1:1. I tried putting some gaffer tape to keep the switch "up" at 0.31m, but sometimes it still moves.

anyone has any suggestions to this problem? i'm tempted to just glue the switch in place. haha

Three Ike DSLR housings, one compact.

The two port clamp was a big issue, now fixed with newer housings with 4 locks, big improvement. The way the 10-17mm mounts with the 8 inch port is a bit dodgy, even with the new system, I dont like twisting o-rings and it just feels a bit flimsy.

I really like the backplate clamping system. I like it being see through.

I really struggled with going with ke again with the 7d given my last one flooded partly due to the two port issue, but it has been OK. Its main shortcoming for me is that fitting on a lens extender like the Inon 45 is a pain, but thats big bicky area, so if I cant even really afford the alternative housing, not much point griping about that.

I like the port gearing, its simple. I like how how easy it is to replace lenses.

I do really miss having the 8 way controller, its a major advantage with 7d/xd cameras thats lost. On the other hand to get it its a bit increase in cost and you can live without it. The AF change button on the 7D is very mickey mouse, which is fairly unique to that housing as theres so many buttons so close together.

Changing memory is fairly easy, battery isnt, you have to completely remove the camera from the backplate for that.

Probably the thing I miss the most though is the option to use optical firing with my Z240's, I find the electrical cords bulky and fragile and expensive. I think they will be under ongoing pressure to change that given its increasing popularity with DSLRs.

I did the sums and even with the Nauticams ability to use my old ports, it was going to be a big cost to changeover. I couldnt quite swing it, with a D90 it would have been a very different story, the more expensive cameras like the 7D, 50D tend to have a much bigger price difference between the Ikelites and the ally alternatives.

Edit: PS I use tape too. Thinner tape like sellotape will go into the gap making it harder for the switch to move.