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Why are my photos under and overexposing?

Started by MitHere ·

  • 32Posts
  • 32Replies

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Why are my photos under and overexposing?

32 posts
  1. Hi hi, these are the unprocessed photos from the RAWs I took in Fiji...

    Maybe you guys can better see what's going wrong apart from the fact I'm not really getting close enough in most photos! ;)

    It does just look to me that either the SS isn't fast enough and they're a bit blurry or the strobe and shutter aren't synced properly in manual (Most of these photos were in manual if not all!)

    http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4503/img1398k.jpg

    http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/78/img1409o.jpg

    http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1646/img1446po.jpg

    http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9747/img1466e.jpg

    http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/1070/img1490v.jpg

    http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/7002/img1497qh.jpg

  2. Hi MitHere,

    any chance of posting the Meta-data from a couple of the images, perhaps one over-ex and one under-ex? I agree with what Otara

    mentioned earlier and think you may have the cameras flash set to Red-Eye Reduction which buggers up the camera-strobe communication with

    a different Pre-Flash sequence. A friend of ours had a similar issue with his G10 until we diagnosed the issue after seeing the Meta-Data from his

    images. Once he switched off the Red-Eye he started getting consistent exposures instead of his strobe doing a full dump most of the time.

     

    Cheers,

    Jim.

  3. If you like black set the shutter speed to 1/250, not faster.

     

    Sorry ... bad advice.

     

    Why are you advising NOT to go past 1/250?

  4. Hi hi, these are the unprocessed photos from the RAWs I took in Fiji...

    Maybe you guys can better see what's going wrong apart from the fact I'm not really getting close enough in most photos! :D

    It does just look to me that either the SS isn't fast enough and they're a bit blurry or the strobe and shutter aren't synced properly in manual (Most of these photos were in manual if not all!)

     

    I think strobe positioning could be your problem.

  5. I checked the metadata on your images and Jim is correct in suggesting you have the redeye reduction on.

    Try turning it off and shooting the camera in manual mode rather than program.

  6. Thanks guys

    I found the flash control bit under my settings but I can't access the Red Eye reduction bit.. It's not even accessible. Red eye lamp is now off though :D

    So how can you tell that I have red eye reduction on when I can't access it to turn it on or off?

  7. I can't access it to turn it on or off?

    That info is contained in the metadata embedded in the file. To turn of look at pg 153 in your user manual.

     

    Duncan

  8. That info is contained in the metadata embedded in the file. To turn of look at pg 153 in your user manual.

     

    Duncan

    I saw the Metadata and I went to page 153... I still can't turn it off or on! It's strange, the option for Red eye correction On/Off is visible but I can't select it!

  9. Your anemone fish shot is probably blurry because you shot it in aperture or program mode, and it decided it needed a shutter speed of 1/15s, which caused the blurriness. This will happen when you shoot in darker conditions in those modes. This is why we shoot in manual more often, to ensure the shutter speed doesnt get too low unless we want it that way, so we can set the aperture and shutter speed to be exactly what we want them to be.

     

    The 'sharp' bit you can see with the anemone fish is when the strobe actually went off, which is why theres ghosty bits and sharp bits.

     

    Most of the others your strobe is firing very brightly but is positioned too far off your main target or being shielded by an object in between the strobe and the intended target, eg a rock edge. You need to angle the strobe better so you can reduce the strobe power and make sure light is actually going on to your target. Is the camera flash blocked off or are you using that too? You want all your flash light on the subject only to be coming from the strobe or you'll get wierd results.

     

    1490v looks about right to me in that the shutter speed is OK, the flash seems to be synchronising OK but the strobe is just positioned wrong. 1497 the strobe is too strong and the strobe is off angle but you're getting light happening. Your pictures also seem to be saying you've set your camera to be firing a +.3 exposure compensation, if anything try -.3 or-.6.

     

    The red-eye function being greyed out probably is because you've set the camera to an automatic mode - are you using a scene mode by any chance set to 'people'? Try changing to manual mode. I could just be its greyed out now though because you turned off the redeye lamp, ie once thats off theres no need to turn off the other. Try doing another shot and posting it. Again, do some practise above water so you can get it working there before going underwater.

     

    Better yet, consider doing a course or finding a club with other camera people. Some of this can be fixed in 5 minutes if the person can check it directly rather than trying to do it all over the internet.

  10. Your anemone fish shot is probably blurry because you shot it in aperture or program mode, and it decided it needed a shutter speed of 1/15s, which caused the blurriness. This will happen when you shoot in darker conditions in those modes. This is why we shoot in manual more often, to ensure the shutter speed doesnt get too low unless we want it that way, so we can set the aperture and shutter speed to be exactly what we want them to be.

     

    The 'sharp' bit you can see with the anemone fish is when the strobe actually went off, which is why theres ghosty bits and sharp bits.

     

    Most of the others your strobe is firing very brightly but is positioned too far off your main target or being shielded by an object in between the strobe and the intended target, eg a rock edge. You need to angle the strobe better so you can reduce the strobe power and make sure light is actually going on to your target. Is the camera flash blocked off or are you using that too? You want all your flash light on the subject only to be coming from the strobe or you'll get wierd results.

     

    1490v looks about right to me in that the shutter speed is OK, the flash seems to be synchronising OK but the strobe is just positioned wrong. 1497 the strobe is too strong and the strobe is off angle but you're getting light happening. Your pictures also seem to be saying you've set your camera to be firing a +.3 exposure compensation, if anything try -.3 or-.6.

     

    The red-eye function being greyed out probably is because you've set the camera to an automatic mode - are you using a scene mode by any chance set to 'people'? Try changing to manual mode. I could just be its greyed out now though because you turned off the redeye lamp, ie once thats off theres no need to turn off the other. Try doing another shot and posting it. Again, do some practise above water so you can get it working there before going underwater.

     

    Better yet, consider doing a course or finding a club with other camera people. Some of this can be fixed in 5 minutes if the person can check it directly rather than trying to do it all over the internet.

     

    http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7397/img1620b.jpg

    http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2228/img1622zn.jpg

    http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9040/img1623u.jpg

     

    There's the general positioning I'd use for macro.. For some others I'd bang it so it was virtually facing front on.

    Yeah there were some things that really pissed me off - I was with some other people in Fiji and I'd find my ISO set to 1600, EV set differently to how I left it and someone did manage to get the camera into a Face detection mode...

    Maybe I should restore to default and start from there! I am in full manual mode now and can't change the red eye.

    The onboard flash isn't blacked out completely, I used S-TTL with a reflective plate because the people I ordered from screwed up and didn't include the optical cable on the invoice/shipment!

    Tough to find people in New Zealand but I'll have a skirmish to see if I can locate some :lol:

    I guess UW photography isn't as easy as I thought it could be given the research :D

  11. That positioning can cause backscatter and may be missing the target. In quite a few of your shots it looks like the strobe is angled wrong, so it puts out all its power to try and get enough light to the target, but its still too far out anglewise so it does a full dump. The anemone one is almost OK, so I dont think you're too far off, some of this is just practise and experimenting more.

     

    With the Inon strobe turned off, try taking a picture of something with the camera in the housing and see how much light is getting through from the camera flash. Ideally you dont want any as it will increase backscatter. IF there is any, use some black tape on the inside of the housing to block off where its getting through, but that none of it is on the controls. Make sure the magnet is off the strobe - it will only matter if the strobe is set to 'manual' in theory.

     

    Again, do some experiments above water, your real issue here is to simply methodically work through the combinations to find the ones that work to get the strobe to put out the right level of light and see how things are working. Find a target that you can take about 50cm away (eg a tennis ball, but pros use rubber duckies) in an indoor setting with a constant light level, and take a picture with the strobe pointing at it, dont change the distance from the subject, and only change the strobe angle if its obviously missing the target when its going off, then keep the strobe angle the same for every shot once it is hitting the target - set camera dial to M for manual, set to f8 and shutter at 1/250th, ISO to 80, and you probably need to be in 'macro' mode if the target is that close. In this mode its just telling the strobe to go off, and the strobe settings should then decide how powerful the strobe output is, which will hopefully simplify things.

     

    Set your strobe on 's-ttl', and the other dial set to 'B' or 2.8 to start with, then take a picture and see what it looks like - it will probably be fairly dark but it doesnt matter as long as we can vary the strobe output using the other dial.

     

    Try changing the dial to 2, 2.8 and 4 and take pictures with each and see if the light output changes, try more settings like 5.6 or 8 on the power dial or less than 2 if it seems like some level of lighting change is occurring - hopefully you can find settings that make things very dark or very bright.

     

    DO NOT CHANGE the fstop, shutter speed or ISO on the camera, only muck around with the strobe settings to see what you can get as a result. Going by the posted pics variation in settings I suspect a lot of your problems are happening because you change too many things at a time, eg changing strobe settings and camera modes at the same time. The only thing you should be needing to change is the strobe in order to get the right level of light output from it. If something looks right, take another pic without changing anything to see if its consistent. Make sure you give the strobe time to recharge, and dont overheat it as said previously. Once you can get it to light reliably at a particular set of settings, and can reliably vary the light output by changing the strobe power, then start experimenting with changing the strobe angle and seeing what happens when you do. Ie change angle, then experiment with changing the power level for that particular strobe angle to see what happens, try another angle etc.

     

    One thing that Inon does is make it so the direction you turn the power level dial will increase power under one mode and decrease it under the other mode which can confuse things, and the 'zero point' changes with sttl and manual as well. This is why Im telling you to experiment with turning the power dial both ways to see what happens.

     

    If none of this works, say whats happening - all too bright, or too dim, whatever and post a couple of pics with all of the settings Ive listed, ie both camera and strobe settings for each pic.

     

    Google found me several u/w photographers in NZ, you could also contact PADI and ask them for anyone who is teaching u/w photo courses, they should be around. What city are you in?

     

    Otara

    Edited by Otara
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