CP 5000 user settings

I am getting ready for my first photo trip with the new digital rig. The user settings seem quite useful, and I am thinking that I may make these changeable via the mode setting (which can be done from the setup menu). My thinking is that then I can quickly go from (say)

1. Set up for open water flash (aperture priority, flashes on, etc) to

2. Set up for macro (macro focus distance, manual focus area, aperature...etc) to

3. Set up for ambient light (change to auto exposure?, set white balance, change auto exposure lock settings, etc.)

Anyway, I be brand new at this. Does anyone out there use the user settings in this way, and have suggestions on how to set up each of the three available sets?

Thanks

CeeDave aka Chris

Chris,

I would keep it simple and use one mode.

Keep the camera in macro for all shots - it will still focus beyond.

If you elect to shoot in aperature priority, make sure the camera doesn't start picking a SS that's too slow. I prefer manual and my wife has success in shutter priority.

You might search for several threads on the cp5000 that were helpful to me when I started.

Karl

I agree with Karl and do suggest you search the previous threads on this topic and then if you have questions please do ask. There was one quite awhile ago with camera settings and then one not too long ago about stops and speeds used etc.

Let us know how you make out.

Following site has information: http://members.iinet.net.au/~diving/coolpix5000.htm

Chris:

I followed the advice in the article referenced above and was very successful for my first time out. I will forward you a link with some pictures from St. Vincent. The only problem I had (which you and I have already communicated on) was monitor brightness when in manual. I will be interested in hearing about your results.

Tim

This is all very helpful.

I will add that using external strobes on land has really helped me to understand strobe performance -- I recommend this "rehearsal" mode to all CP5000 users. You can get a very nice, compact, adjustable, IR slave/dedicated Nikon SB30 for about $80, new. The SB30 has power levels and so I can shoot in manual, move the strobe around (triggering it via IR from the internal strobe, without a sync cord...), play with the CP speedlight controls, etc etc etc. I got some AWESOME pictures of a hummingbirdesque hawk moth sipping nectar from a ginger one night, using this set up and "practicing" to shoot fish.

I did search the archives on this topic ... I assure y'all, I do RTFM, so to speak. What I am particularly interested in is whether the user settings (A,1,2,3) are used by anyone underwater -- and I can't find threads that talk much about this (spent an hour or so paging through posts that addressed OTHER, useful points, but not this).

So far, in this thread, the consensus seems to be "don't mess with it." Any dissenters?

I found a thread hear that I think is what you are looking for

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=678&st=0&hl=

I generally use these settings preset in Mode 1.

Take III

Exposure - M or A

White Balance - Auto

Metering- Center weighted or Spot

Image Adjustment -Less Contrast

Saturation Control (I would assume low)

Lens - Normal

Exposure Options AE lock

Focus Area Mode = Manual (Need to look this one up)

Image sharpening -Low

Noice Reduction - Off

ISO - 100

Zoom Options Fixed Aperture

Speedlight Cntrl - Auto

Hope this helps.

I shoot in RAW so I don't worry about the white balance too much but do find that low light situations or subjects that are darker will be best shot in cloudy mode for white balance.

Speed Light Variable Power Opt. -2

Shot Confirmation Lamp - Off

Hey Chris,

Set it up any way you want. I use Mode 1 for wide angle - man exposure - internal strobe off - external strobe on - fixed aperature, Mode 2 for Available Light - Aperature Priority - internal / external strobes off, manual white balance. I would play with the camera a bit more to find out what works for the types of images you like to shoot before setting up the modes.

A good friend keeps his mode 3 set up for movies, just in case something big and fast flys by.

Good Luck,

Doug

Just a comment, and this comes from years of shooting with film cameras.

It is (in my experience) better to enter the water with a fixed objective in mind. Wither it be macro, wide angle, portraits or available light. All require different camera setups and most different equipment configurations. Concentrate on what your particular setup up is best at and ignore the temptation to snap at something your not set up for. Doing this produces better results and also hones your skills for each particular type of photography. The KISS 'keep it simple stupid' approach is always better. Working this way gives you plenty time to set up the camera before entering the water. Having user setting groups is a cool feature and no reason why it should not be used but would suggest it is not something to be changed during a dive ...... just my opinion.

P.S - the thread referred to above has one glaring error. The writer talks about Matrix metering and metering modes as though it has something to do with the camera focus. It has not. Cameras do have different focus settings but they have nothing to do with the metering.

I just had success shooting in "A" mode, or aperature priority. I had the camera in a Aquatica housing with a DS-50. I set exposure compensation -2, ISO 100, and A mode, matrix flash metering, and it worked great.