Settings for 7D and Z240

I have a PhD in ecology. I teach mathematical modelling of ecological systems on university level. I run a reasearch project on anemonefish. I consider myself reasonably good at solving logical problems. Enter in my life a system change from 5Dm2 in an Ikelite housing with Ikelite strobes to 7D with Nauticam and Z240 strobes with Inon manuals and I am on the intellectual level of an earth worm!. The Ike strobe manual would need to be about three sentences:

1. Connect strobes to housing.

2. For ttl, use buttons for exposure compensation.

3. For manual, use buttons for exposure compensation.

The Z240 has two (2!!!) manuals including gazillions of sentences. And the same guy that writes my tax forms and Ikea´s manuals has for some reason once again been hired to write a manual. To me, it is on the level of sanskrit! I simply do not get it. I can not find the part where it says "When using Ettl2 and wanting the strobe to do s-ttl (which btw seems to be pretty cool according to the manual) set the strobe to x, y and z and use the xxxxxxx for exposure compensation. Same thing with manual (and how complicated should that be!!!!). I do however get that the strobe compensation in some settings work by increasing strobe levels turning a knob clockwise, and in some settings increase strobe levels by turning the same knob counter clockwise. Sounds like a great idea with such a construction after two weeks of 5 hour diving/day!

So I need help. 7D users, how have you set up your strobe? I have after a full days reading and trying a suggestion:

For s-ttl: Set the camera flash to E-ttl2 and the strobe to s-ttl. Set the compensation knop at 12 o´clock. Do not engage the ACC-knob. Use the compensation knob on the strobe for minor strobe compensation (minor!!). Use camera flash compensation for major compensations.

For manual: Set the camera flash to manual. Dial down to 1/128th power. Set strobe to manual. Engage ACC-knob. Use the compensation knob for compensation. However, for some reason, full dump is not allowed here. For full dump, set strobe to full and engage ACC-knob.

So, 7D and optically connected Z240 users. I need help! Please give me your experiences. Which settings do you use?

Best regards

Bent

I have a PhD in ecology. I teach mathematical modelling of ecological systems on university level. I run a reasearch project on anemonefish. I consider myself reasonably good at solving logical problems. Enter in my life a system change from 5Dm2 in an Ikelite housing with Ikelite strobes to 7D with Nauticam and Z240 strobes with Inon manuals and I am on the intellectual level of an earth worm!.

I don't have a Z240 Bent, but I had to tell you that I haven't laughed this hard in weeks. I feel your pain partner. Sorry for your frustration.

Cheers,

Steve

Not a good day for me! I was hoping that you would show up here, Steve. And as far as I know you are the man when it comes to testing stuff in your jacuzzi by shooting a plastic duck under different circumstances somewhere in the warmer parts of US. I know that you have a 7D and a Nauticam, and I was more or less certain that you also had the Inons to go with it. But that was obviously not the case. I am on the verge of "sod the fri**ing manual and get a beer or eight instead". Actually, I am over the verge. Please, someone, save tomorrow for me and get me of the Inon manual hook by letting me know how to set all those buttons (which, btw, not only turn, but also are pushable!!!). That´s 3D-buttons!!

//Bent, of to the fridge!

I don't have a Z240 Bent, but I had to tell you that I haven't laughed this hard in weeks. I feel your pain partner. Sorry for your frustration.

 

Cheers,

Steve

If I'm shooting mainly sTTL with a bit manual I have the camera's inbuilt flash set to E-TTL II and the strobes set up as follows for sTTL:

Left Hand Dial - STTL

Right Hand Dial - Pointing at the yellow "B"

ACC switch at bottom right OUT

For Manual shots:

Left Hand Dial - Either Full or M -0.5 > -6

Right Hand Dial - Does nothing if Left Hand dial is at Full. Otherwise set flash out put starting at -0.5 of stop from full power when pointing at the green "11" decreasing half a stop at a time as you move the dial anti-clockwise until you reach -6 stops when you get to the white TTL marking

ACC switch at bottom right OUT

When shooting manual only I set the camera's inbuilt flash to manual with flash output set to 1/128 (this saves battery power and how fast you can shoot is only limited by how fast the strobes can recycle). Strobes are set up as follows:

Left Hand Dial - Either Full or M -0.5 > -6

Right Hand Dial - Does nothing if Left Hand dial is at Full. Otherwise set flash out put starting at -0.5 of stop from full power when pointing at the green "11" decreasing half a stop at a time as you move the dial anti-clockwise until you reach -6 stops when you get to the white TTL marking

ACC switch at bottom right IN

Thank you so much! Is the reason for the different settings on the ACC switch when shooting manula that it has to handle a preflash when the cameras flash is set to Ettl and that there isn´t any preflash when the camera´s flash is manual?

One more question. How do you do exposure comepensation when you shoot in Sttl?

Once again, thanks!

/Bent

If I'm shooting mainly sTTL with a bit manual I have the camera's inbuilt flash set to E-TTL II and the strobes set up as follows for sTTL:

 

Left Hand Dial - STTL

Right Hand Dial - Pointing at the yellow "B"

ACC switch at bottom right OUT

 

For Manual shots:

 

Left Hand Dial - Either Full or M -0.5 > -6

Right Hand Dial - Does nothing if Left Hand dial is at Full. Otherwise set flash out put starting at -0.5 of stop from full power when pointing at the green "11" decreasing half a stop at a time as you move the dial anti-clockwise until you reach -6 stops when you get to the white TTL marking

ACC switch at bottom right OUT

 

When shooting manual only I set the camera's inbuilt flash to manual with flash output set to 1/128 (this saves battery power and how fast you can shoot is only limited by how fast the strobes can recycle). Strobes are set up as follows:

 

Left Hand Dial - Either Full or M -0.5 > -6

Right Hand Dial - Does nothing if Left Hand dial is at Full. Otherwise set flash out put starting at -0.5 of stop from full power when pointing at the green "11" decreasing half a stop at a time as you move the dial anti-clockwise until you reach -6 stops when you get to the white TTL marking

ACC switch at bottom right IN

Is the reason for the different settings on the ACC switch when shooting manula that it has to handle a preflash when the cameras flash is set to Ettl and that there isn´t any preflash when the camera´s flash is manual?

One more question. How do you do exposure comepensation when you shoot in Sttl?

To quickly gain access to Flash Exposure Compensation press the "Q" button on the back of the camera and use the Multicontroller to highlight Flash Exposure Compensation on the rear LCD and then press the "Q" button again. When you want to use Flash Exposure Compensation just press "Q" and the camera will already be in Flash Exposure Compensation Mode and use the rear command dial to set the compensation you want and then press "Q" again.

Thank you so much!!! Suddenly my new gear seems pretty cool. I really appreciate your help. I am of for a long trip to SE-Asia on Tuesday, so it was kind of intimidating not to be able to use the equipment.

Best regards

Bent

Yes

 

If I want to adjust the overall strobe exposure I use Flash Exposure Compensation on the camera. If I want to change the output from the strobes individually I will either use the right hand dial to adjust strobe output (anti-clockwise to increase and clockwise to decrease) or I will put the strobe that I want the lowest output from into manual mode and control it manually while controlling the power of the other strobe that is in sTTL mode using Flash Exposure Compensation.

 

To quickly gain access to Flash Exposure Compensation press the "Q" button on the back of the camera and use the Multicontroller to highlight Flash Exposure Compensation on the rear LCD and then press the "Q" button again. When you want to use Flash Exposure Compensation just press "Q" and the camera will already be in Flash Exposure Compensation Mode and use the rear command dial to set the compensation you want and then press "Q" again.

Hi Bent,

Love those Inon manuals! And the labeling on the back of the strobe is so helpful as well

I shoot straight manual: Power knob (upper left) to M, then use the upper right knob (seems to be labeled "ttl" for some reason) to adjust the actual output. I think of the green numbers on the dial corresponding to f stops (since there's a 2.8, a 5.6, etc.), thus one click below 2 is the lowest power - if you were shooting that wide open, you'd need the least amount of flash output. The flip side is 11 is full power - if you had a small aperture, you'd need more output. Not that these numbers actually coincide with the actual f stops you're using Also, there's no "stopper" (for lack of the correct word) on this power knob, so it will turn all the way around if you're not careful. So you may think you're cranking up the power to the max, but if you go one click to far, you're now at the minimum. Fun!

On the other hand, you can now say your strobes must be better because they go to 11

Actually, once you get the hang off it they're really nice strobes, esp. for traveling using rechargeable AA batteries. Have a great trip!

Phil

Thanks to both of you. You saved me a lot of head-ache! I have tested the settings you suggest, and they work just fine. The only thing I do not really see an effect of is the exposure compensation when in s-ttl, but with the Q-button, is it extremely easy to set it on the camera. And that comepensation works as it should anyway. So, of to Asia on Tuesday. Friday will be the big day testing if all the new equipment actually also works in the water.

Best regards

Bent

Thanks to both of you. You saved me a lot of head-ache! I have tested the settings you suggest, and they work just fine. The only thing I do not really see an effect of is the exposure compensation when in s-ttl, but with the Q-button, is it extremely easy to set it on the camera. And that comepensation works as it should anyway. So, of to Asia on Tuesday. Friday will be the big day testing if all the new equipment actually also works in the water.

 

Best regards

 

Bent

You will love the system. Show us some great pics.

Bill

The only thing I do not really see an effect of is the exposure compensation when in s-ttl

Thanks for the information contained in this thread. It has made things clearer for me as well.

Am I correct in thinking that whatever colour the print is on the options on the left hand dial, (yellow, white, or green), then this corresponds to the different coloured control options on the righthand dial?

Yes.

I just received two Z240s for use with my D7000. Having been an Ikelite guy for years, I can't believe how complicated these strobes seem to be. The manuals just plain suck. I'm sure I'll figure it out but it seems the learning curve might be a bit steep in the beginning. And don't get me started about changing the wireless connector on the fibre optic cable for a regular one...

Back again from my trip. I ended up with shooting mainly macro and using the strobes in full manual. I did not like the recharge time of the onboard flash with ttl, and, to be honest, didn´t really get the hang of adjusting the strobe output in ttl. However, that didn´t really matter, as the manual set up worked very well and was easy to adjust. Compared to my earlier system, I felt that it was easier to get the lighting effect I wanted.

I have one major problem left though. On night dives it was really hard to do any major adjustments of the strobes as I did not have any light to shine on the back of the strobe. After 4 dives a day in two weeks I more or less knew the controls by heart and managed more or less to get things correct. But I will probably have to relearn again on my next rip. Is this how it has to be done or is there a secret light button? Alternatively, do you dive with a head lamp? Or a dive light in your hand?

Some quick pictures from the trip can be found on http://www.pbase.com/borneobent/philippines_2011

Regards

Bent

Hi Bent,

Nicely done! Some really great shots.

Yes, manually adjusting the Inons at night is very challenging - I'm still working on it as well. After adjusting by feel over the course of a dive, sometimes I just have to stop and recheck where things are at.

Looks like you got the hang of it for sure!

Phil

After adjusting by feel over the course of a dive, sometimes I just have to stop and recheck where things are at.

 

Phil

Hi Phil

How do you actually recheck? Somewhere halfway into a night dive I really feel the need of some base checking of the settings after having reset the strobes a number of times. I have a focus lamp on my housinng that I use as a dive lamp, but no loose lamp I can use for checking the settings on the back of the strobes. Securitywise I believe I have enough redundancy in the strobes if my focus lamp fails. I might just have to bring a small, strobecheckerlamp in the future!

Bent

I have one major problem left though. On night dives it was really hard to do any major adjustments of the strobes as I did not have any light to shine on the back of the strobe. Alternatively, do you dive with a head lamp? Or a dive light in your hand?

 

 

Bent

Would a REALLY small Pelican flashlight work?

So glad for this thread. I will soon receive two z-240's myself.

Would a REALLY small Pelican flashlight work?

 

So glad for this thread. I will soon receive two z-240's myself.

I wil have to try that. The way the "power"knob is constructed, turnable 360 degrees, thus going from full power to next to nothing with just one click, is hard to control without a light. Also, I really like to check the "program" knob now and then. Teh wrong setting there can easily screw up a dive. So a really tiny light it will be.

I use the Cameq dial extenders and I have ground one end down so I can feel which end is where the arrow of the original dial is. I have also painted the same end white so I can see which end is which.

Apologies for the link to my own site but I can't find any other images online

http://www.uwvisions.com/products.php?p=13...p;m=18&c=34