Help with Canon 300D / Ikelite Housing

Ok, My housing came in today and I already have some questions.

Manual Focus. How??

Can you break the strobe arm by tightening it too much? No matter how much I tighten it it cant hold the DS-125 in place. Is this less of a problem in the water?

When using one strobe which is easier - right or left??

I think I allready know the answer to this one but I dont like the answer so I ask anyway. If I must use the diopter with the zoom lens underwater does that mean that it cant be used for half and half shots?

Thats all for now but Be ready for more questions after I get to try it out. Thanks

I cant wait to go diving sunday....

Typically, you cannot use a zoom lens, AND manual focus. Unless you can get it into a flat port, with it's own zoom/focus colar and knobs.

Manual focus, with prime lenses, of course is no problem.

For the simulation of manual focus, when using zoom lenses, I have found using autofocus, and focus lock, to be an adequate substitute. Pre-set the focus, lock it, and then compose by moving the housing until the subject is in focus.

But really, underwater, with a relatively small viewfinder, it is best to depend on autofocus, whenever it works. Some AF assist light, possibly from the strobe modeling lights, may help, as you get down to dimmer conditions.

I have only the large ikelite ball arms, and they cannot be broken in any way. Not sure about the smaller ones. Yes, they hold better in the water. In fact, you want to find the right setting so you can move them underwater, without having to undo them, for each adjustment.

I'd say left is easier, when using only one, so you can adjust it, while keeping your other hand on the shutter. But not really an issue either way.

You are correct about not able to use the standard setup for over under. They make special half and half diopters/neutral density filters, for the over/under shots.

Enjoy!

Don

No arms will hold your DS125 up out of the water. You can't break the arms, but it's not necessary to try.

So I am supposed to use the zoom gear for manual focus. Do they make bigger gears because the ones that came with the housing will not fit around the 100mm macro - it is too wide.

ohh one more...The * button. Is it supposed to make the strobe flash? Because It doesnt.

Probably the Zoom gear for one lens will not fit as Focus gear for another (You would be very lucky) normaly you need a seperate zoom or focus gear for every lens.

What the * Button does can be configurated in the menu.

Eric for example uses the * Button as AF Lock and dos not use a Focus Gear.

No arms will hold your DS125 up out of the water. You can't break the arms, but it's not necessary to try.

ULCS Arms will do this quite adequately, proving the value of o-rings in the balls.

What the * Button does can be configurated in the menu.

This is another Rebel frustration, the * button can not be programmed via the menus. On the reble, its function changes depending upon the shooting mode.

You can lock focus via the DOF preview button however. The Ikelite housings offers this via a thumb control on th back of the housing. It can be accessed with the left thumb still on the handle, and your eye pressed against the viewfinder.

The problem with this is that shooting small apertures can darken the viewfinder a little too much.

The large-balled ike arms will hold up any strobe, out of water, as well.

Probably the Zoom gear for one lens will not fit as Focus gear for another (You would be very lucky) normaly you need a seperate zoom or focus gear for every lens.  

.

Ok so what do I need to get to focus the 100mm macro. I see nothing on Ikelite's site about different gears for different lens's.

ohh one more...The * button.  Is it supposed to make the strobe flash?  Because It doesnt.

The default behavior of the * button will make any E-TTL strobe flash for flash exposure lock, but it will not a non E-TTL strobe.

I know this can't be done with the Digital Rebel, but I shoot with * as FOCUS -- not focus lock. And I also use a manual focus ring, when shooting 100mm macro or greater. I don't find a need to use it at shorter focal lengths because autofocus is fine (the D60's autofocus is right on the edge of usability in lower light conditions, but the digital rebel and 10D should be more than adequate).

As Ryan said, the DOF button can be used to lock focus for manual focus. Otherwise the camera selects focus and will come out of focus lock when the subject moves significantly enough to cause it to sense this.

With DOF you can lock focus but note that the view will shift to the Stop selected and thus make it virtually difficult to see what you are shooting through the viewfinder.

We are hoping that the D70 will cause Canon to send a upgrade that will allow for you to select your focus method vs the camera selecting for you. Cross your fingers. :roll:

Thanks for clarifying those points, guys.

One great benefit of Canon lenses is that they perform just like Nikkor AFS lenses in M/AF mode. IE, you can AF with the camera, but if AF won't get you there, override it with the lens barrel.

The application of this, however, is housing specific, but will require Rebel users to hold a half press, and manipulate the MF gear. Many will find it easer to use MF entirely, setting it before sealing the housing.

Ok so what do I need to get to focus the 100mm macro. I see nothing on Ikelite's site about different gears for different lens's.

You'll need to measure that lens to know the correct port size. I don't know it off hand.

You'll also want the port with the Focus knob built in, which retails for $175.

It should come with a geared sleeve, and lens clamp. The clamp secures to the focus ring, and the sleeve slides over it engaging the gear. It is very simple, econimical, and easy to set up.

You'll need to measure that lens to know the correct port size.  I don't know it off hand.  

 

You'll also want the port with the Focus knob built in, which retails for $175.

 

It should come with a geared sleeve, and lens clamp.  The clamp secures to the focus ring, and the sleeve slides over it engaging the gear.  It is very simple, econimical, and easy to set up.

Wait a second...I got the port 5505.45 as recomended by ikelite's port chart - http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/port_chart.html .

Are you telling me that this is the wrong one?

but I shoot with * as FOCUS -- not focus lock.

Eric: So do you use cn02 = 1 " AE Lock/ AF" or cn2 = 3 "AE + release/AF+/AE"?

Simon

I use CF 01, so I can still lock exposure separately. 99% of my shooting is done on this setting, because the two buttons can function at the same time. I just let go when I want to stop focusing.

But I do switch between AI Servo and One Shot quite frequently.

Well I got to try it out today. In one word...Wow. It is awsome. Ill post some pics as soon as I am done processing.

On the second dive I used the kit lens(EFs 18-55). I did NOT use the +4 filter and it appeared to work fine. I guess I wont know for sure untill I see the pics on the computer though. I was amazed by this lens. I got so close that I could almost touch a pufferfish with the dome. Not only could it still focus but the entire fish was in the frame with room to spare.

I was surprised how easy it was to get proper exposure. I set aperature and shutter on the surface. Set the strobe to full power. And didnt have to adjust anything the entire dive. First dive 100mm macro, 1/125, f/18. second dive 18-55, 1/80, f/14. Maby I just got lucky but I never immagined it would be that easy to get it right.

The Av button doesnt press the button far enough down so I cant adjust aperature. I figured that would be an easy fix to streighten it out a little to make it reach, but it is too strong, I cant bend it. Any ideas...push harder??

The water anti-magnifys the viewfinder. It seems fine out of the water, even with my mask on but once it is underwater it really is tiny. No worries about not being able to manual focus, I cant even read the green letters. In a way this makes me happy because I will no longer stress over not being able to use manual focus. I guess this isnt really a problem it is just a fact of life that I will learn to live with.

My flat port was dirty All of the pictures from the first dive have a smudge in the top right corner. Yes this one is purely my fault but all the same sucks.

Pics are here.

http://www.wetpixel.com/modules.php?op=mod...ewtopic&p=29414

Wait a second...I got the port 5505.45 as recomended by ikelite's port chart - http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/port_chart.html .

Are you telling me that this is the wrong one?

I don't have any long Canon macros at my disposal to confirm this with...

but, is the 100 too long to use the clamp/sleeve that camer with the housing with? If it is, then to MF my guess is that you'll need #5506.5. If not, you can use what you already have, focusing from the housing.

Wait a second...I got the port 5505.45 as recomended by ikelite's port chart - http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/port_chart.html .

 

Are you telling me that this is the wrong one?

 

I don't have any long Canon macros at my disposal to confirm this with...

 

but, is the 100 too long to use the clamp/sleeve that camer with the housing with? If it is, then to MF my guess is that you'll need #5506.5. If not, you can use what you already have, focusing from the housing.

I cant tell if it is too long because the gears wont fit around it. The clear plastic piece with gears on it just might fit around it if you removed the AF/MF and AF range buttons.(Actually it will fit if you squeeze it into a slight oval and push real hard but I doubt that it would work all bent out of shape) The black clamp piece isnt close to big enough to fit around the lens and if it could there definately wouldnt be room to fit the gear around it and the lens.

Have you tried putting the gear on from the other end of the lens?

Photos of your problem might help us to see what you are talking about...