Olympus O-MD E-M1 and Sea&Sea YS-D1 compatibility issues

Hi guys sorry for starting this thread and then had to go away on business for a couple of weeks but paratom could you try as it works on land as well set up camera to f22 and at 1/320 on camera set the EV dial in ys-d1 to 0 (zero) take photo it should be ok then try and adjust EV dial up and down this is where problem start.take photo with light background set to TTL and adjust EV dial to say 1.0 take photo you should see the camera shutter come into picture from top

Hi guys sorry for starting this thread and then had to go away on business for a couple of weeks but paratom could you try as it works on land as well set up camera to f22 and at 1/320 on camera set the EV dial in ys-d1 to 0 (zero) take photo it should be ok then try and adjust EV dial up and down this is where problem start.take photo with light background set to TTL and adjust EV dial to say 1.0 take photo you should see the camera shutter come into picture from top

Hi guys forgot to add that at these settings for macro are ok but if you go about 1.5 to 2 feet from subject then the shutter problem happens

I will try to check today or tomorrow. Regards, Tom

Sorry for asking this but just to make sure:

Do you have RC mode switched off? (I ask because I read that RC mode can lead to flash synch problems if you do not use Olympus flash)

Hi rc mode is off and camera is on version 1.4 firmware but as I said before if you are doing macro usually it's ok but the further away from subject you go the problem gets worse with EV dial adjusted

ok guys what i have done is check a few things so here goes if you want full use of EV dial on ys-d1 when set to TTL you can have 1/320 but no higher f stop than F14 if you want F22 then no faster shutter speed than 1/160 here are a couple of photos first is F18 AND 1/200 next is F18 AND 1/250 the faster the shutter speed and higher the F stop the worse it gets

Does the olympus have a no preflash mode? If it does i would try that with strobe in no preflash to see if you get a faster reaction?

Hi the only way for the pre flash not to work is to put the flash on manual after that you only get 1 flash when flash fires.

Yes do that and set the strobe in no preflash. Just to see if the ttl preflash is creating a delay

Yes it works fine on manual always has done but if you want to use TTL after the setting i gave earlier the camera and strobe dont sync i.e 1/320 the highest F IF F14 and if you want to shot up at F22 then fastest shutter is 1/160 but on manual all is ok

Ok so the issue is compatibility with the olympus ttl pre flash system. I guess this is an annoyance with macro shots

close macro is ok its when you go a little bit further away from the subject,if you leave the EV on 0 then its fine you just cant tune it any if over or under exposed but just went up to the mates plugged his inon s2000 onto my omd em1 tryed everything and all works fine

close macro is ok its when you go a little bit further away from the subject,if you leave the EV on 0 then its fine you just cant tune it any if over or under exposed but just went up to the mates plugged his inon s2000 onto my omd em1 tryed everything and all works fine

The s2000 is a small strobe so will react very quick however my Z240 also does 1/320 with the D7100. I don't have an Olympus so can't tell but I bet it works fine too.

When you say EV 0 is this on the strobe or on the camera? If it is on the camera it is possible that the strobe doesn't work well once you do adjustments?

The EV is always been on strobe but the inon worked great if the camera was on ttl and strobe on ttl EV on strobe set to 0 you got good ttl at 1/320 and f22 if I adjust EV on strobe positive it gives brighter photo and if I turn EV to negitive it gives darker photo like it should at any distance

Uhm Inon beats Sea and Sea

Sounds good to me pal thx for the feedback you've been a great help

I have shot some images tonight in my living room at f22 in TTL at 1/320 with various exp comp on the flash from -1 to +1 and the images come out ok.

Same seems to be the case for manual flash mode.

SO far I can not find the same problem like you.

On the other side I ask myself - how often do you need f22 with m43?

It seems one needs to crank up ISO in the 1600 range to get proper exposure with the YS-D1 at that f-stop and medium distance (with FE-lens).

So

You need f/22 with a 60mm lens and you would not crank up the ISO you would leave it at 200

This is not a FE lens scenario where you would want some amount of ambient light

Think about black background

You need f/22 with a 60mm lens and you would not crank up the ISO you would leave it at 200

This is not a FE lens scenario where you would want some amount of ambient light

Think about black background

I think he said it works fine at Macro distance and the problem occurs at medium distance.

If you shoot f22 at medium distance you reach the limit of flash power of the YS-D1 if you stay at low ISO.

Anyways- IMO the question is why do the OPs camera-flash-combo show a problem which seems not to exist whith my samples of the same equipment?

Is it a) a defect piece of equipment (and if so is it flash or camera) b) is anything wrong with the settings c) does it occur to other people who use the same equipment

OP - did you contact sea&sea and ask for an explanation? Thats what I would do for sure.