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why is the c 5060 no good?

Started by neo ·

  • 36Posts
  • 36Replies

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why is the c 5060 no good?

36 posts
  1. ok, this is from the Inon site:

     

    PT-020 Housing: Wider 28mm equivalent C-5060 lens with moving front element will cause vignetting when camera zoom at widest setting. Type 2 lens can be physically attached and used, but it will be necessary to zoom forwards a little to the equivalent 35mm setting (like the C-5050 lens at widest setting) thus negating benefits of C-5060 28mm equivalent native lens.  

     

     

    so from what i gather the wider angle of the c5060 causes vignetting used with the Inon WAL but that can be compensated by zooming it in to where the c5050 would be.  

     

    So using the c5060 w/Inon WAL you will get the same 100 degrees that you would with the c5050, you just have to zoom in alittle. correct? is this hard to do?

     

    is the c5060 as good as the c5050 in low light?

     

    thanks, im trying to put together a setup soon!!!

     

    There was an issue brought up at a discussion ealier: the front of element of the 5060 lens moves. That may set it back from port and increase the distance to the Inon lens and degrade the image. I have not seen a test so I don't know if that's the case.

  2. to guinea pig or not to guinea pig, hmm

  3. how wide an angle can you get with the c5060's 28mm lens?

  4. When shooting through the flat port on the PT-020, the image quality is pretty poor (this is based on samples I have seen) at 28mm. This is because of the chromatic aberration caused by shooting through a flat port.

     

    Cheers

    James Wiseman

  5. Lens as wide as my mind...

    It takes a talented photographer to consistently fill anything much over 90 deg FOV (about 20 mm in 35 mm equivalent), in my opinion. "Beginners" such as myself are probably better off with moderate wide angle as we learn to compose, and go to >100 degrees as our composition and strobe use improve. In my opinion...

  6. i imagine a wide angle would make it easier to capture fast moving objects with shutter lag. shoot at a high rez to crop.

  7. i imagine a wide angle would make it easier to capture fast moving objects with shutter lag. shoot at a high rez to crop.

     

    This is the wrong approach if you want to be good at this. The reason for wide angle is to get closer to the subject and reduce the amount of water in between.

     

    The techniques to deal with shutter lag are: pre-focus , anticipate the critter, and pan with it.

  8. theres a thread on digitaldiver.net with some nice pics taken with a 5060 in an Ike Housing with Ike Dome Port and 2 DS-50 strobes using just the stock lens on the camera.

     

    is it ok to post the url here?

  9. theres a thread on digitaldiver.net with some nice pics taken with a 5060 in an Ike Housing with Ike Dome Port and 2 DS-50 strobes using just the stock lens on the camera.

     

    is it ok to post the url here?

     

    Of course.

  10. well i wasnt sure if it was considered "cross posting" or whatever.

     

    heres the url. you may have to be logged in to see it:

     

    http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.p...g66266#msg66266

     

    the problem i see with using a fixed dome port is that you cant switch to macro lenses underwater.

     

    theres also a page on camerasunderwater.co.uk that mentions the results of using the pt-020 housing with an Epoque WAL:

     

    http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/d_still.../user_info.html

     

    from what i understand, some barrel distortion occurs anyway with WAL.

    not sure how the chromatic abberations compare to the 5050/Inon WAL combo.

    they dont mention any image degradation due to the camera's lens being retracted from the external one though.

  11. i imagine a wide angle would make it easier to capture fast moving objects with shutter lag. shoot at a high rez to crop.

     

    This is the wrong approach if you want to be good at this. The reason for wide angle is to get closer to the subject and reduce the amount of water in between.

     

    The techniques to deal with shutter lag are: pre-focus , anticipate the critter, and pan with it.

     

    Better said than I could (and what I am trying to learn!). For non-SLR's (like my CP5000), sometimes prefocusing is danged tough, especially when panning, and so (when it's possible) I use precomputed near/far focus tables (for my widest zoom, for various f-stops) to set a manual focus and blaze away. It sometimes works well.

     

    Besides shutter lag, write speed is a HUGE issue with the CP5000 (almost precluding RAW except for the most deliberate of environments). Is this a problem for other p-and-shoots?

  12. the problem i see with using a fixed dome port is that you cant switch to macro lenses underwater.

     

    My 2 cents, as a beginner (and possessing somewhat of a one-track mind):

     

    While it makes one miss some possible opportunities, being set up for either macro OR WA works well for me. I talk to the DM, or other divers, and choose my setup accordingly. Then I focus on those shots for the dive.

     

    There WILL be another whale shark, there WILL be another seahorse. Probably. And, tho this is probably heresy on this group, you can enjoy seeing things even if you don't get the shot.

     

    True confession: I like bigger critters a lot more, and am not very good at macro yet...I rig WA for almost all dives but night dives. For night dives, I have a flat port with a wet-removeable Inon macro converter.

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