If the coke doesn't work, you may be able to apply a new anti reflective coating - it would require removing the glass from the dome - there are vendors in Australia who will do the coating and you would need to find someone to remove and replace the glass or find out how it is done and do it yourself - you would need to source a new o-ring seal for the dome glass. Talk to these people for the coating: http://www.opticalcoating.com.au/ You would need to discuss the best type of coating to use for saltwater service with them.
Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic
Issue with 230mm glass dome port (foggy)
Started by MATT S ·
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Issue with 230mm glass dome port (foggy)
24 posts
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Thanks again for all the advise everyone. Some great options to try.
In regards to the Coke... I soaked it over night and I do think that it seemed to help a little. It definitely hasn't been a silver bullet and gotten rid of the fog, however it seems to take longer for the fog to appear once the dome is pulled out of the water, so I guess that's a win
I will try some of the mag wheel polish over the next little while and see if I can get some more results.
Cheers!
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Hey Matt
Can you get Brasso in Aus? As I said earlier, I read that works.
According to Wikipedia:
The label of Australian Brasso lists "Liquid Hydrocarbons 630g/L; Ammonia 5g/L", whereas the material safety data sheet for Brasso in North America lists: isopropyl alcohol 3–5%, ammonia 5–10%, silica powder 15–20% and oxalic acid 0–3% as the ingredients.[4] However, the Australian version contains kaolin instead of silica for abrasives.[5]
The online data sheet for Brasso wadding in the UK lists the ingredients as C8-10 Alkane/Cycloalkane/Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Quartz, C14-18 and C16-18 unsaturated Fatty acids, Kaolinite, Aqua, Ammonium Hydroxide and Iron Hydroxide. Brasso liquid lists a slightly different mix; C8-10 Alkane/Cycloalkane/Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Quartz, Kaolin, C12-20 Saturated and Unsaturated Monobasic Fatty Acids, Aqua and Ammonium Hydroxide. Also available are ingredients in a discontinued recipe for Brasso. Wadding: C8-10 Alkane/Cycloalkane/Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Quartz, Ammonium Tallate and Colorant. Liquid: C8-10 Alkane/Cycloalkane/Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Quartz, Kaolin and Ammonium Tallate.[6]
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Another possible option:
I was researching, yet again, how best to restore an induction kitchen hob which, almost from day one (5 years ago), developed stains on the glass which we have not been able to remove. Nothing we had tried worked.
I came across one of the HG product range described as "kitchen intensive cleaner" which is designed for ceramic and induction hobs. This has lifted 80% of the seriously deep-seated water stains on our hob. It made me think this might work on the type of stain we've been discussing here.
Translating from the Dutch (so bear with me here!) the active ingredients seem to be: anionic surfactant and nonionic surfactants.
As I say, it did quite a job on a ceramic hob with no obvious detrimental effect. Maybe another option. Although, unlike Coke, I wouldn't try drinking it. But then I'm not sure about Coke either
