Digital Rebel 300D Housing Recommendation

Just joined the forum. All previous uw w/ Nikonos IVa. Moving to digital with 300D w/ 17-40mm f/4 and 50mm Macro. Need help deciding between Aquatica A300 and Ikelite 6870.1 eTTL. Not clear if Aquatica have cracked the TTL code for Digital Rebel? Leaning towards Ikelite w/ DS-125 strobe. Your help would be appreciated.

Jim

Hi Jim,

Aquatica has realeased an updated housing with TTL converter, but we have yet to hear any reports about it here. I will hopefully get a chance to test it out over Xmas. All I have heard about are GOOD reports from users of the Aquatica housing.

The Ike housing is available with the TTL Converter which allows flash exposure compensation. The housings is a bit less money, but your port and lens choices are not as good and IMO the housing isn't as convenient to use as the Aquatica. Ike now makes a great manual focus port for the Canon 100mm lens. All I have heard about are GOOD reports from users of the Aquatica housing.

I'm sure you'll be happy with either one.

Cheers

James

Jim, I like your lens choices. And FYI, per the Ikelite chart, they both use the same #5503.50 dome port so for you, one port size fits all.

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/2port_canon.html

Hi Peter,

Are you sure? It seems to me that a 50mm macro would want a flat port and the 17-40 wideangle zoom would want a dome port??? I suppose you COULD shoot the 50mm behind a dome, but I wouldn't want to.

Cheers

James

James, A flat port is also available. But based on my experience with my Nikkor 60mm, it's not a bad way to start out.

Specifically, my 60mm produces tack sharp pictures with the dome. But at a price since I don't get the additional magnification that a flat port provides.

The 50mm Canon lens only shoots up to 1/2 life size. That's why I recommend the flat port for that lens. The 60mm shoots 1:1 (35mm equivalent) so putting it behind a dome isn't such a big loss of magnification.

But the 50mm behind a flat port will only do 1:2 + 2/3 = 1/3 lifesize x 1.6 crop ~ 1/2 lifesize (35mm equivalent).

Cheers

James

But the 50mm behind a flat port will only do 1:2 + 2/3 = 1/3 lifesize x 1.6 crop ~ 1/2 lifesize (35mm equivalent).

 

Cheers

James

Where did that come from? The cropped sensor makes it easier to fill the frame. The math goes something like:

35mm on the surface: 1:2 -> frame size 36 x 2 = 72mm minimum frame size

1.6x corpped sensor + flat port under water: 1:2 -> 36 x 2 / 1.6 / 1.2 = 37.5 mm minimum frame size.

The 1.2 is due to magnification of the flat port in water.

Guys,

I believe Herb is correct as to magnification differences on a 1.6X magnified macro lens. In actual use not much difference, plus as Peter states having one port is an advantage for traveling. I shot a D100 with 60mm macro behind an Ikelite extended dome port for 1 year with great results. I posted a long time ago about David Doubilet and others paying big bucks for domes in macro ports as they thought restoring a lens's true view helped color and detail....In the end either a flat or dome will produce nice results as long as it's the one specified by the housing manufacturer....

James, as to Ikelite has less port choices, I believe on only a few super large diameter lenses like Sigma's 12-24 which is now a non-issue due to Canon's own EF-S 10-22mm wide angle zoom.) Maybe a few other after "exotic" or after market macro lenses. Ikelite ports handle 99% of lenses most UW photograhers will ever need IMHO.

Finally, the Ikelite eTTL and eTTL 2 for Canon's EOS 20D is availble and works NOW...........To my knowledge no one has used and / or posted ANY Aquatica eTTL images......If they're out there, let's see 'em

I thik either housing will work well for 99% of UW shooters.

Regards,

David Haas

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

www.pbase.com/dhaas

"What's New" samples at www.ikelite.com

Yup, I had the 10-22mm out in the water housed in Ikelite #5503.50 this weekend, and it worked great! They say it needs a special clamp, but the regular one that came with the housing worked as well (a bit tight though, so I am ordering the special one anyway). I have been very happy with Ikelites housing for D300, but I am using flat ports for macros and domes for WA. The ports are just ober $100 each, so there is no reason to skimp. Also, I really really like the fact that the whole camera can be seen at all times. It's great for reducing flood-anxiety, but also because you can see that everything lines up nicely etc

Whoops, I put a + instead of a * and I typed "flat" instead of dome. That's why my math wasn't making sense.

Should read: The 50mm behind a dome port will only do 1/2 * 2/3 = 1/3 lifesize x 1.6 crop ~ 1/2 lifesize (35mm equivalent).

As for port choices, you could say you have LOTS of them - a port for each lens...;-) Other housings, you only need two ports (Dome and flat) and then a set of extension rings for your various lenses.

For example, for nikon D70 shooters (What I'm familiar with) w/ the Aquatica housing, you can shoot 10.5, 12-24DX, 17-35, 24-85, 105mm, 60mm, 70-180mm lenses all with two ports and some extension rings. If you want to add a teleconverter, you just get a different extension ring. It's a pretty cool system and great for trevelling.

Cheers

James

James,

OK, for Nikon D70 in the SLR-DC housing one extended dome port (#5503.50) allows a user to shoot:

12-24mm DX, 60mm macro, 18-35mm ED, plus 2 older Nikkor zoom choices (20-35mm and 24-50mm)

Add a standard dome port on this 1.5X magnified camera and you can add 16mm Nikon Fisheye, Sigma 15mm Fisheye, and standard wide lens up to 35mm.

That's 2 ports and I'll bet a lot smaller than aluminum housed ports. And I've done it on my Nikon D100 Plus maybe the smaller superwide dome port if you have the 10.5mm.

For Canon (as first asked in this thread) A user could likely house the 2-4 lenses they'd need with 2 ports at much lower cost and weight, too.

I sure don't know many shooters who have 3 UW zooms they travel with...

At any rate both housings will deliver great photos in the right user's hands

YMMV

David Haas

Most folks I know want to shoot the 60, 105, 12-24, and the fisheye. How many ports do you need for that lens collection? I'm talking about optimized ports, not shooting a macro lens behind a dome, or shooting an old 20-35 zoom that nobody uses anymore Dave...:-P [just joshing of course, but you know where I'm coming from]

And Ike - I'm not trying to get your goat either - I just wish there was a way to use extension rings with your ports. I think it's possible and would be really great.

Cheers

James

Thanks everyone for your feedback. All the port discussion got a little difficult to follow but I think I heard either one will do just fine. I'm more curious about how they each handle underwater with regards to ease of use (location of controls) and carrying. I've really enjoyed the small size of my Nikonos set-up for wrecks, strong currents, and swimthroughs. I sense the Aquatica may be better suited for this since it is more compact. However, some of the reviews gave me the impression that all the controls were not ideal. Any comments? Thanks again for all the advice.

Jim

Jim,

Both the Aquatica and Ikelite SLR-DC housings are more compact than previous housings.....An inch here ot there is not going to make a bit of difference in my opinion. Now, buoyancy is another consideration.... My Ikelite SLR-DC housing with a Canon Digital Rebel and single DS125 storbe is practically neutral underwater in SALT water. If I throw it up in the water column it will sink ever so slowly.....Just negative enough to set on the bottom for gear adjustments, helping a buddy, etc.

Herb Ko can probably comment on the Aquatica buoyancy although I think he's using small INON strobes (Herb?) One other thing mentioned by other users of large dome ports with the extension rings is wrist twisting. A big dome is going to be seeking the surface with all that air space If you're young and don't mind fighting your housing underwater so be it. Ikelite's dome ports are smaller and there's been lots of discussion PRO and CON on edge sharpness, radius, blah, blah, blah......My opinion is how bad can these domes be if PRO shooter Dave Fleetham got tons of cover shots with Canon SLR film cameras and Ike dome ports throughout the 1990's? All my wide angle images at the www.pbase.com/dhaas site were taken with Ikelite ports.

I think James suggestion about adding extension rings for Ikelite ports might merit some investigation down the road. But I also think adding another o-ring in line to the port and housing connection to me is asking for more trouble....

James and I have voiced our opinions on the Ikelite housing mounting the camera on the back including the flash hot shoe. He's not a fan of it, as he shoots (still with his new Kodak SLR/N?) Nikon and Fuji cameras which requires you to pop the memory card out on the back. Canon camera's flash card slot is on the side, and I've easily popped open the back and changed flash cards between dives. Battery changes require 2 things.....A hand towel to dry the lip where the main back o-ring seals and my trusty Swiss Army knife flat screwdriver blade. I can do it in under a minute as I don't open my housing until I'm set to change whatever.... With the few large diameter lenses which require installing and sealing the port last, yes, James is correct you have an extra step to un-seal the port , remove the lens then pop the camera back off to change batteries AND/OR flash cards. My experience with Canon (and Nikon dSLR cmaeras) is the camera battery should easily last a day or so of shooting...So unless you're changing flash cards every dive this becomes a non-issue...Again I can do THIS under 2 minutes once I'm ready with grease to re-seal the port o-ring (the only large o-ring necessary to grease on an Ikelite housing.)

As Marjo states being able to see controls lining up I feel is the best advantage of Ikelite housings. If something is binding, etc. you can SEE IT and open the housing and correct it before beginning your dive.

Fianlly, the plastic versus metal debate is one last thing I'll address for you to consider in your decision making process.....I don't beat my gear up but DO use it in all kinds of conditions..... Deep to 150' or so (max. depth for the "old man" these days) plus shallow snorkeling chasing dolphins. I have NEVER seen an Ikelite housing material fail in real world use despite witnessing Ikelite housings tumble down steps, drop to boat decks (my aluminum baseplate under my D100 housing broke once, but not the housing!) If you look around so many manufactured things are plastic and hold up well....Even your camera Plus with plastic and stainless steel fittings you barely have to rinse after a days diving. I put my housing in a dunk tank for 60 seconds, press all the spring loaded buttons to flush salt water out of the tiny crevices and dry the ports and eyepiece (after making sure to rinse these with FRESH water)...That's it....

Hope all this information helps in your decision making process.

David Haas

Haas Photography Inc.

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

www/pbase.com/dhaas

The Aquatica is very slightly positive with 105mm and the 15mm FE and dome port. With TLC arms and 2 Inon strobes, it's a little negative, but not enough for me to worry about. The only complains I have about the controls is that they used a lockdown key for the * button, and that button never needs to be held down. I end up never using that button, it's not really needed. The other minor issue is that, I think they should have extended the shutter switch out further from the housing.

Overall I've been happy with it. I like the ports and the extensions rings. I have not shot with any other housing, so I have no reference for comparision.

David and Herb,

Thanks for all your advice. I think the Ikelite is going to be the way to go for my needs. Now just trying to find on with TTL that is in stock at a good price. I think I'll start with one DS-125 and 5503.5 dome port. Any other components I need to purchase to be ready to dive? What best option to transport both camera and housing?

Jim

Jim,

When I quote a system (I'm an Ikelite dealer) it's soup to nuts....Always included are spare o-rings for housing back and port, plus DS125 battery pack. Just doesn't make sense to me to be all the way out in the field and nick or cut an o-ring and not be able to make photos. If you want specific pricing email me privately at davidhaas@sbcglobal.net .

Lots of folks post about carrying on their housing and camera, lenses, etc....Personally I pack housing, ports, cords, chargers, etc. and send through in a Pelican case. Then only carry on camera(s), lenses, land flashes and laptop stuff. That's enough for me and I always try and arrange my flights to allow lots of time to either check bags at the international airline's counter or lots of connection time from a domestic to international carrier.

I used to carry on a Rx mask and wrist dive computer so I could dive and even rent a camera to make photos when I shot film (way back in 2000.) But not anymore....Now if for any reason my UW photo gear is delayed I take surface photos with the stuff I carried on

Hope this information helps!

David Haas

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

www.pbase.com/dhaas

and www.ikelite/com under "What's New" link

Hi Dave,

I think it's good that you let everyone know that you're an Ikelite dealer, maybe when you're making recommendations, you can post that a bit further up in the thread.

Cheers

James

James and guys,

Absolutely James is correct that anyone posting (and participating) in this forum should be identified if associated with a particular product line. I apologize if it wasn't clear.

I'm an Ikelite dealer, run dive trips and conduct seminars. I believe many others who offer help on this forum (Ryan at Underwater Camera Pros, Joe Belanger, Stephen Frink to name a few) sell and use the equipment they may post opinions about. It was actually Eric who suggested that my name label be "Industry" after I tested and wrote reviews on Ikelite products. I do test and provide "real world use" feedback to Ikelite and also like to share my findings with Wetpixel. After all, this site is about making images to share with friends and family, and most importantly having fun doing it

I think it's also important to point out if you recommend products and/or a company that some demonstration of an equipment's capability is around......Whether it's a web link, individual samples or whatever. Any forum will live or die based on factual examples....I think most participants here actually use the equipment they talk about and generally don't have much bias....Just strong opinions

Hope this is clear and I'll make sure to open my posts (or signature) being clear I'm an Ikelite dealer.....

By the way, I used to sell and use both Light and Motion and Aquatica many moons ago. All great people (Berkeley, Norma, Blake and others at both companies) but Ikelite has proven to be the best value for my customers and myself....So if that sounds a little biased, so be it

As usual YMMV (your mileage may vary)

Regards,

David Haas

Haas Photography Inc.

330-678-0591 phone/fax

330-329-5981 cell

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

Sample Image Galleries at:

http://www.pbase.com/dhaas

Ikelite equipment test images at:

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_ettl.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haasdrebel.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_g6.html

Dave,

Thanks for posting. I hope it's clear that I wasn't saying you were biased - but some people may think that and I don't want them to get the wrong idea.

I know you've used just about every camera and housing out there. That's a great value to Wetpixel.

Cheers

James