ike strobes

I plane to buy two Ike flashes DS125. I like the manual controller they have. Do you think is good idea to have this controller for each flash unit? How they are connected to the housing ( for D70)?

If you want to use two DS125s and you want 10 manual control steps for each you will need a seperate controller for each strobe.

You cannot connect both strobes to the same manual controller. It won't work.

You don't NEED the manual controller at all--you can just use the 4 steps built in to each strobe if you want.

You can connect the dual sync cord to one manual controller and strobe on one end and just to the strobe on the other end. This would give you 10 steps on one and the normal 4 steps (via the switch on the strobe itself) on the other.

You can also use one manual controller and one TTL controller on each strobe with a single sync cord. This way the second strobe would mimic what the first strobe does.

I think the best option is just to get two manual controllers though. The manual controllers are easy to use and very precise. You get more lighting options with two controllers.

You will want to sell them on ebay once Ike comes out with a TTL modification for your housing though so the cheapest solution is to get a dual sync cord and live with the 4-levels and upgrade your housing in 6-months or so.

That's the problem I have. I don't wannt to wait the TTL fro Ike and I'm from Europe, so the sending the housing back to Ike is expensive and take to long.

I'm not sure how the TTL will work with two strobes...

I red few forums about TTL or non TTL. It looks like most of the guys prefer non TTL, so I will go with the non TTL as well.

So, if I understood well the system, how to connect all together, I will buy the two man. controllers and one double sync cord. Do I need something more to connect it?

Thank you.

Thats what I would do. I don't think you need anything else. The manual controller has a built in cable to connect to the strobe. You just connect the dual sync cord to the housing then each end to each manual controller. Then you connect the built-in cord on the manual controller to the strobe.

BTW: I'm very keen to try TTL with my D70 when its available. I know a lot of people shun TTL in the digital age. I think this is mainly because its not available. People used to say the same thing about TTL for film. But then it caught on and everybody seemed to like it. I think it will be seen as essential once people try it and it works.

I'll be interested to see how it works with dual strobes too.

The beauty of the Ikelite 300D TTL implementation (I think the D70 will be the same) is that you don't have to give up manual. You will have three choices:

1 full auto with TTL

2 Semi auto with TTL and flash exposure compensation

3 Manual (10 steps like the manual controllers)

What I'm not sure about is controlling each strobe independantly.

When shooting subjects on the reef then switching to subjects on the sandy bottom TTL will be a help.

Thanks for reply.

I'm looking forward to have it.....

I tried a pair of DS125s for the first time yesterday (as part of the Digital Jam week sponsored by Dive Chronicles on Grand Cayman) and I really liked them. More than I was expecting too!

I think that you would benefit from having the manual controller - but I did 2 dives. I got handed the strobes on 1/2 power and I never changed them! I did two dives one with the 10.5mm Fisheye and one with the 105mm macro. And did all the exposure compensation with the aperture or by sliding my hand partially infront of one of the strobes.

In conclusion I'd say the manual controller is not essential.

Alex

D70 + 10.5mm F13 @ 1/50th

And this one 105mm. F13 @ 1/500th. DS125s still on 1/2 power!

Both images are uncropped. And these were my first two open water dives with the D70. Although it is so similar to my D100 that there isn't any adjustment time. Bring on the D2X!!

Great Alex!

I look forward to hearing how it works and seeing your photos.

The four settings on the DS125 are more than adequate. Any fine tuning can be done in Photoshop.

I love these strobes. Virtually instant recycle, warm, even light, compact, and fast charging. I have three of them, using the third as a battery source and a backup.

The four settings on the DS125 are more than adequate. Any fine tuning can be done in Photoshop.

I agree. A twirl of the aperture dial, a power setting change from the four available on the strobe gets you within a 1/2 stop adjustment in Photoshop.

The manual controller would only help me if it had a 2x full setting.

Isn't it time consuming to separately adjust exposure of subject and background in photoshop (all kinds of select/layer crap)?

Whereas with strobe power for subject, and aperture for background, it's a bit easier to do "in camera"...in my admittedly limited experience.

I agree with Ceedave, too much control is as bad as not enough, if you get the two manual controller, then I sugest investing in a rebreather or a set of twin tank, you will need them to compensate for the time used in setting up your flash exposure , and may i suggest a taxidermist, because the only fishes that stay in place long enough are on a dinner plate. :wink:

Isn't it time consuming to separately adjust exposure of subject and background in photoshop (all kinds of select/layer crap)?

The original question was related to the value of the manual controllers versus the four settings standard on the strobe. Either choice has no impact on background (ambient exposure). If, when you say background, you mean background that is still in strobe range, then adjusting strobe power will impact both foreground and background exposure.

Whereas with strobe power for subject, and aperture for background, it's a bit easier to do "in camera"...in my admittedly limited experience.

It is always easier or should I say better, to get the shot right the first time, in camera, but is it easier to adjust strobes and repeat the shot to get another 1/2 stop closer to perfect or just adjust the exposure in PS?

The manual strobe controllers allow more incremental settings between lowest and full power; I believe half stop increments.

So, if I believe my shot is 1/2 stop off, I can:

1) Adjust manual controller(s) and reshoot. This requires looking, reaching and turning dials.

2) Flip aperture dial, stopping down or opening up a 1/2 stop without moving my hand from the shutter release and while framing my subject.

3) Adjust slider bar in PS when I open the file.

I prefer 2) or 3). Time is precious underwater. Fussing with power knobs is time consuming. Good shots sometimes come and go quickly. I would rather get THE shot close to perfect exposure and move on to the next one. Also, I find 1/2 stop exposure adjustments to work well in PS.

If I'm off a full stop and a half, then I need to adjust the strobe power regardless. Granted, locating manual controllers close to the housing can make strobe adjustments easier. But sometimes I find it faster to just shove my stobes closer or futher away as a power adjustment.

I'm not rich, but I could easily afford the manual controllers if I wanted them. I just never felt they were necessary.

I prefer the manual controllers because I can make adjustments very quickly since they are located beside my handles......I find reaching out to my strobes to make adjustments very awkward...

I'm looking forward to getting an iTTL module....not so much for iTTL, but so I can eliminate the bulk of the manual controllers and use the convenient buttons to control the strobes manually that way

Karl

One of the things I like about the Ike 125's is that I can bang off multiple shots one after another fast and not worry about the strobe dying. On skittish fish, that is a big advantage.

Isn't it time consuming to separately adjust exposure of subject and background in photoshop (all kinds of select/layer crap)?

I think that Chris makes an important point - just because we can fix things afterwards - who has the time. Its much easier to get it right at the time!

During the last week teaching on the digijam event in Cayman - one of the main comments from the gang is that my pictures are correct straight from the camera.

Photoshop should be used to take your images places they couldn't go in reality. To create images that are impossible to take underwater. It is not just something to fix mistakes.

Alex

I've done about 6 dives with the D70 this week - a borrowed rig and I really like the Ike 125s. I don't find the few manual powers a problem. They are great guns and I was able to do a back to back TTL test underwater with a 5050 and Ike Nikonos cable TTL and a 5060 and INON D2000 with fibre optic TTL. I'll report on that soon.

I guess the bottom line is that I've got my Subtronics here and I haven't bothered to take the Ike strobes off the borrowed rig and replace them with my own strobes. To me that says a lot.

My main problem has been I don't have a RAW convertor on my laptop for the D70 images!

Alex

here is a Ike lit image from this week. D70 +105mm

I used to use manual controllers, but stopped because I found that the four Ike 125 settings were enough.

I don't know. I've tried a few strobes, but what stays on my camera are usually the Ikes. I just get better results with them than with any other strobes.

I am still learning: I may yet come around to George's view that it's easier just to grab the strobes themselves. For now, though, the controller seems simpler to me.

At least these controllers aren't too dear, as uw photo kit goes --

Alex-

You may want to use the Nikon software (capture editor)...seems to be better at handling NEF files than Photoshops plugin.

That eel shot is great!

M.

ps. When you review you pictures on d70 LCD do you use the histogram or highlights feature more?