Nikon D70, D2X, or something else

Thanks Arnon_Ayal, you answered while I was typing in my last reply.

“What is the difference with using a flat port or a dome port?â€

1) A dome port retain the angle of view of your lens, basically your nice wide angle doesn’t loose any coverage.

2) The rays of light converge to a common central point, making for a better images. With a flat port the central part is closer than the edge resulting in soft/out of focus corners.

3) So why use a flat port, well your macro lens will benefit from a 25% magnification bonus due to the refraction, (remember your mask, everything is bigger) and, the angle of view is quite narrower on a macro lens so its not really affected that much from the center to side syndrome, add to this the fact that you use those lenses at f8 or smaller and what was a problem with a wide angle become a solution for a macro lens.

There is two popular system for ports, one way is using a different port for every lenses and the other is using only two port, one dome for wide angle, one flat for macro and uses extension rings for switching between the differents lenses that you have or might purchase later.

Two flashes: the decision to have or have not two flashes come naturally after shooting for a while, but its not obligatory by all mean to have two flashes in the beginning, I would recommend starting with one and master the technique before getting a second unit, one thing you should do is to get a double connector on the housing right away, it is more practical and economical to have two independent cable, if you have a cable failure you can always use one flash, with Y cable, you break one, well you break both.

Here is two features on domes optic.

http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/proper-dome...-and-placement/

http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/dome-theory/

Regards.

Here are some points from the D70, D2X and Canon 20D

I was asking the same questions a few weeks ago, D70, D2x or Canon ID Mark II. after intensive looking, the overall best value was the Canon 20D.

I have the 20D, and not had the chance to take it UW yet, but it is very good above the see.

D2X is a 12MP

5 FPS

11 Point Auto Focus

37ms Shutter Lag

Underwater Housing €3000

100-800 (Could be better is dark lit situations)

D70 Body Only

6.1 MP

3FPS

5 Point Autofocus

Shutter speeds up to 8000/sec (To quick for water)

ISO 200 – 1600

Underwater Housing is about €1000 I think

Caon 20D

8.2MP

5 FPS

9 Point Autofocus

Shutter speeds up to 8000/sec (To quick for water)

ISO 100-1600 plus boost to 3200

€1200 for UW housing

Thanks Viz'art.

I did read those articles before, but to be honest, the only confused me more. I got lost in all the technical details and really only wanted a simplified answer. I hope I don't have to work all that math out myself.

Just want to know what ports to get for best image and what diop setting to use. I think I'll learn the other stuff in time as I gain more experience. You explaination helps me, so now I know that I will most likely want both a flat port for the 60mm and a dome port for the 10.5 FE.

I really appreciate everybody's help here, this really is a great forum with a lot of helpfull people. I'm learning a lot, but still have a lot more to go.

I'm wondering If I should continue in this thread so that this thread will develope and show my progress, or If I should start making seperate post?

Stick to the same post so people will see where you come from and where you are going.

A good exercise before getting a u/w system is to take a look at the type of image you wish to capture and see if the system adapt to your need. do you like split shots, ultra macro, what are the dream lenses in your mind, because you dont have them now doesn't mean you wont be getting them. underwater photographer have a very effective way of convincing themselves that they need something so never say never. and don't be shy to ask question about optics. it's complex in theory but fairly simple in practise and there is quite a bunch of member very generously knowledgeable on this site.

Here are some points from the D70, D2X and Canon 20D...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

jenkinsd, he's already bought the D70. No need to try to change his mind now

underwater photographer have a very effective way of convincing themselves that they need something 

The problem is to convince the other part B)

One way to do it is to buy her a full set for herself...

Amen to that!

If I had an "other", you think I'd be able to offord this!

Being single can have its advantages.

The problem is to convince the other part  B)

One way to do it is to buy her a full set for herself...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Did not get time to read all responses, that will teach me.

Ok, I've been playing around with the camera and am in the process of uploading my first set of pictures.

I thought this would be simple but I ran into another problem.

I took the pictures so far using the RAW mode. Well it appears most programs I have do not recognize this, so I am forced to install Nikon's software.

What should I use?

I'd like to be able to use Adobe CS2 for everything, but I think there is a issue about this where Adobe cannot work with Nikon RAW images.

I can also use the PictureProject software that came with the camera, which I assume sucks. Or I can use Nikon Capture 4, but I am not about to spend the money on that.

So what do? Should I take the pictures using the large jpg? I am assuming this will result in less quality and reduce the amount of photoediting I will be able to do.

What are most people doing right now?

Hi mate,

If you have a copy of CS2 - you should install Adobe Camera Raw (I've linked the PC version).

Don't bother with Picture Project - your assumption is correct and also don't bother shooting JPEG if you already have CS2.

You should have no problem opening a NEF file with CS2 - just open the file, adjust the white balance and exposure to taste, etc.

There is an article in the library here about how to develop RAW files.

Cheers

James

If your CS2 Raw doen't work, you'll need to disable the NEF plug-in in the Adobe program file

Karl

hi,

if you go subal for your D70 housing, you may be in for a long wait. i've just been quoted at least 6 weeks maybe more for one here in the UK. prolly better there in the states (most things are inc. the prices ;p)

Yeah, a number of the housings appear to have fairly long delivery times.

Here an udate on my progress:

I've been playing with the camera taking topside pictures and really do like the camera. I ran into some trouble working with the raw images and have been struggling to figure out how to use Adobe CS2. I'm starting to get the hang of it. I realized that I can load about 200 pictures at once and select a large group of pictures with similar lighting and make the same adjustments to that entire group at once. This really helps cut down the time.

I will be running into anouther issue soon, I have been working with the trial version of CS2, and I only have 2 days left. I did not realize how expensive that software is. I'd be willing to spend the upgrade price (150), but the full version price is too high. Problem is that I don't have a previous version so the upgrade version is not going to work.

I'm going diving this weekend, but since I don't have a housing yet I won't have any pictures to post. I have not even ordered the housing yet, but I have a pretty good idea what I plan on buying. I just want to get more comforable taking pictures with this camera and working with the images first before I buy the housing. This also gives me a little time to save up a little more cash so I can offord everything I want.

Oh, working with the raw images, I have found that for most pictures I need to do the following.

Step 1, use the white balance dropper on something in the image that is white.

Step 2, Increase the exposure. For some reason I need to do this on a lot of my images since the auto exposure setting seems to be too low.

Step 3, on a lot of my images I find that increasing the saturation between 10 to 15 helps bring out the true color.

I'm not sure if I should be adjusting saturation at this point but they seem to be coming out pretty good.