Litos

Giancarlo, this is very interesting. Knowing that the OS1 works well with the AOI focusing leds was my only concern. For the Flex-arm adaptor, I think can 3D print myself.. The other option I find for the AOI is getting the Snooty snoot, but it is pricier.

Poetry apart, I have not been impressed so far by the iPhone samples I saw. IMO, a strobe-less point-and-shot as any TGx is perhaps a better and more versatile option.

And, time to time, you can dive without any lens but your eyes; without any sensor but your mind; without any card but your memories...

I am thinking on getting a snoot. I already have an AOI Q1RC , so getting the AOI snoot will be cheap. However it seems to be just a 'duct with a hole' with no optical concentration. How does it compare with MF2? Is the focusing led usable?

I can confirm bird detection in OM1 mk1 works fairly well for fish eyes. I used that with a medium sized C-AF zone. Just in case, I configured a button for switching on/off the subject recognition, and use the 1/2 lever for changing from single point to medium size or cross focusing area.

What about making your gear slightly bouyant?

This is exactly what I experienced: if the mode is not on TTL, the flash compensation is not used. Red eye was disabled as far as I know, but I will double check. I got the impression that the pre-flash was scaring some of the targets. When having some time in the lab, I will try to measure withthe oscilloscope what RC TTL, RC manual, FP RC TTL and FP RC manual are doing. I just need some spare time... this is mostly what I am doing... but wanted to move the controls from the strobe to the camera for not having to mode the camera and improving ergonomics. That was my idea. Thanks for the very detauiled answer!

I think most of the problem comes from (1) moving from a small camera -handheld TG4 with built in flash, allowing high flexibility for camera position- to a camera with tray and short arms for strobes; and (2) light control. Now I have a video/led strobe (Seafrogs SF-L01), and an AOI Q1RC. I currently use AOI as the main strobe and the SF as focusing and fill light. I can also add strobe function to the SF, but not doing that for the moment. My perception is that the light I am getting is less appealing than I was getting from the TG frontal flash (in Olympus housing); probably the AOI is further away and more diffused (?) . I am thinking of using some snoot, but probably I will need a light assistant (guide or fellow diver) for effectively use of this. Don't get me wrong: overall I am happy with the setup, but it is big when compared with the TG for perceived marginal benefits. I am far from the results I am getting with the OM1 in dry photography.

And here a couple of shots with the OM1 and AOI strobe

Here a minute hairy shrimp and a couple of cyerces taken with the old TG4 and a handheld torch

Perhaps some of the OM1 here know how to solve this: I am trying to control flash intensity of an RC controlled strobe (AOI Q1RC) from the camera dials. I want this because, while shooting super-macro, moving the flash control knob makes me loose the critter in frame. I have the flash set to RC and manual, so I can enter the flash intensity on the super control panel... but this uses the screen so I loose the ability of keeping my target in the screen. While I can add flash exposure compensation to a dial, this does not work for manual mode, and I have not found any way of controlling the flash manual power using the dial. Is there any way of doing this? I don't want using TTL: it is too slow because of the several flashes and disturbs many creatures. I will be also be delighted if other OM1 users may provide useful hints about camera control configs for underwater use. In my case I use in the AOI housing: -fun 1/2 for changing between cross and single point CAF. I am not using tracking since I felt it to be very erratic. -AEL for bird detection (works quite well for fishes) -ISO for x2 magnify -rear dial for Fstop (here I would like to control the flash power) -front dial for shutter speed (I would place here Fstop) -arrow pad for adjusting focus area and composition -así of course back button focus I mostly shot 1/250 and F6.3 to F11 with ISO200. I am still to research if using faster shutter speed and FP flash sync has any advantage. Any help will be welcome!

Hi, I have been using for years a TG4, mostly for macro, and finally decided to get an OM1. Still fighting a little with it, since I many times miss the flexibility and compact design of the TG. Arguably, I can now do some photos that were quite difficult to do with the TG, as hairy shrimps and some cyerces were the TG struggled to lock focus. Hope I can get some assistance around!