Proteus

Please contact me if you're wanting to buy. I have one I'm thinking to sell. Gary

Read your question more carefully. I asked about the front element, not the real one. I don't think the rear has coating but, to answer what I "heard", I believe Phil only answered about the font element because that's the one I was trying to fix. Gary

Yes, I spoke with Phil, if you know him. But if you want more assurance just mail them. They are very responsive to questions. Gary

Looking to buy one, if anybody wants to sell. Gary

I'm another one who corresponded with Nauticam. The outer surface does not have any optical coating. I'd expect cerium oxide to work well (or at least as good as possible). You can buy the powder on Amazon. Mix with water to form a paste and polish away. The paste will not scratch the glass but will polish very nicely. Just make sure your towel (preferably microfiber) is clean of any debris, especially metal flakes, from any past use.

Adding a bit more for perspective. My favorite lens on my "big gun" Sony A7RV setup was the Canon 105 mm. As one would, I was using the appropriate Nauticam flat port and this should have had the same 1.25 magnification. So, it seems, I was always preferring an effective 132 mm perspective. Maybe I'll just be restoring my de facto "go to" configuration. To be clear, and to help other folks, my interest is not macro. I think the CMC is the right answer for tiny slow moving critters. My interest is fish portraits. My goal is to get enough "reach" that I can get close up pictures of animals that don't want you near them. Gary

I’m still experimenting with this, but here’s a bit more. I mounted the lens in the housing and, as written this works perfectly. Then I set up on my kitchen table (albeit, in air not water) and was able to focus reliably at 14 inches. So absent the water effects noted above, and I agree they will exist, I have a fairly close focus. I don’t know how many jawfish fans are out there but I think most would agree that they will never let you get that close. Maybe I’ll end up OK because the increased minimum focus distance will only extend to where I’d likely shoot anyway. But I had another idea and will try this also. There is room left over in the front between the lens and port. There’s enough room to put a 12mm extension tube on the lens. I’ve never used extension tubes but I know they move the minimum focus in while increasing magnification. So the plan is to try that too. I imagine I’ll end up at the local pool before I have any decent conclusions, but there’s enough promise here that I want to chase this around a bit. If anyone else gets interested please write what you find … and feel free to point out my errors too. It’s all about learning … Extra note: it’s really easy, and not damaging, to remove the gear … just 4 screws. So there’s no permanent harm in the experiment and I won’t regret having the 56mm lens should it end up as something I only use on land! Gary

I'm excited to write about an R50 option that I've discovered. Back in March 2025 I wrote about the only real limitation I've found with the Nauticam R50 housing. In Nauticam's design the port is integral to the housing. The design intends 18-45 Canon lens to be the only option for optics. This is not a big limitation because the WWL-1 and CMC can be added and together they give you an almost perfect range of options. But I wanted a bit more. I like to shoot jawfish, and a 90mm equivalent lens seems to work well. The Canon 18-45, however, only creates a 72mm perspective. As designed other lenses will not fit in housing ... but now I've found one. The lens I've found is the Sigma 56mm / f1.4. There is one compromise; you must remove the lens gear that is built into the housing. Once this is done the Sigma lens fits perfectly into the housing. Yes, you'll loose the zoom, but you will have the kind of arrangement most of us have shot for years: the 18-45 set for wide angle, and the 56 when you want telephoto, or perhaps macro (haven't tried this yet). If you make this change you will be temporarily removing the two guides that hold the gear in place. Be sure to put them back once the gear is out because the upper guide is needed for the pop up flash to work properly. It does not block the lens placement. If someone has a 3D printer and some time I think a redesign of the gear or guides might result in an arrangement that accommodates the 18-45 zoom feature, and the 56 lens, without compromise. Gary

The strobes and accessories have been SOLD.

Price reduced again to $1400. Also listed on eBay for $1600 if you prefer to buy that way. The eBay auction number is 116707465474.

Price reduced to $1600 USD, user pays shipping. Payment via Paypal.

Selling my Retra strobes, both are in good condition, fully working, and never flooded. The strobes come with the front and rear bumper rings, the neoprene jacket, and the battery extensions that raise the cell count to 8 cells per light. You will be receiving this as I dived it, so the sale includes two quick battery chargers, 16 Eneloop high capacity batteries, and battery storage / transportation holders. Asking $1800 for the whole rig. Gary

Thanks to Chris R. for the info about wet lens optics, I was afraid this was going to be the issue. If anybody has tried anything else and had it work I would appreciate your thoughts. Also thanks to Chris H. for the Sea Frogs idea. I might have gone this route if I'd known from the beginning though, otherwise, I really like the Nauticam housing. I might end up giving the 50mm/Kenko idea a try as I already have the Kenko and wouldn't mind having the 50mm lens. If it fits I guess it would no worse than jumping in with other fixed focal length rigs that I've owned. It is really nice, though, to be able to re-plan under water. Does anyone know if the limitation on wet lenses is a physics thing, or just a matter of no one making such a thing? From an uneducated perspective it seems as though it's just that no one is asking. Gary