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fruehaufsteher2

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Everything posted by fruehaufsteher2

  1. It depends.... The people I've spoken to say that the A7 IV and A7 RV are a big leap forward and the biggest gain is in autofocus, but the sensors have also improved significantly once again. Others will probably not be able to tell which camera the pictures were taken with, but it will be easier to focus and get the most out of the RAWs. PS: If you are going for new take the A7 RV. Unlimited crop potential, one of the best sensors on the market, outstanding AF
  2. AFAIK @Interceptor121 has the WWL 1b and might help. I am not aware of a specific calculator. The DOF-calculators could work with the WACP and WWL as well as with other lenses. So you might grab the WWL1, Focus the camera lens on infinitiy and open the aperture as far as possible, put Camera in the housing with WWL-1, and take a photo over water of a measuring tape to see which is the furthest point that can be focussed on. Then use the DOF calculator to see what happens if you close the aperture.
  3. Next Sunday AOI will be at the Boot-Düsseldorf and I will be there. Are there any specific questions I should ask the people from AOI?
  4. Hi, Freediving is for me the best way to explore the reefs if you’re not too much into macro. So it might be that we have the same attitude towards diving. I had both: The RX100VA in Seafrogs with Seafrogs dome and the aforementioned UWL95C (but attached to Isotta housing). While I would never buy Seafrogs any more I can definitely recommend the INON UWL95. Fast, reliable, compact and to my feeling about 90% of the image quality of the large solutions achievable. There’s an additional Dome that can be attached to the UWL that increases angle of view (I had it but never used it) Downside of the RX100 is the shorter battery life and the lower stabilization in video but image quality is really good if you use Raw&Lightroom. I bought gear at unterwasserkamer.at and PanOcean, and for your needs both will be fine.
  5. Thanks a lot, that is very helpful. It seems like I have been too optimistic with regards to my wetsuit. Maybe have to rethink.
  6. Seems I have to do that, too. Now I have to convince my wife that she either comes with me or sends me there without her. Crazy good.
  7. I have nothing to add to my previous statement. I don't see a need to completely rewrite the article. Please refrain from personal attacks.
  8. Fuuuuuu.. is that a great video. Tears in my eyes. The advantage of a freediving neoprene is more flexibility? I have a conventional neoprene 7mm and did my advanced freediver in it. Not so comfortable but possible. What about money? Very expensive oder very very expensiv? With your article I have a new goal... Thanks a lot!!
  9. Hi Massimo, your additional comments are absolutely welcome and might clarify some additional facts for people, who have a deep technical interest. In fact I don't see that my Article has "A number of totally incorrect statements"... But with your elaborate comments everybody should be able to decide by himself. Currently I don't see a need to completely rewrite the article. Remeber - this is not a scientific article. This is my personal view and I still think it provides a broad overview for people who think about how to put their equipment together
  10. Hey Massimo, calm down. My article is a broad overview and doesn’t go deep in any detail. If that makes you happy we’ll add a disclaimer: „Not all statements are applicable for every combination. For the individual solution please read the port charts and contact your local supplier.“ The facts are from the Nauticam descriptions or from the colleagues I was diving with. You are taking it too personally…
  11. If I made errors or incorrectness anybody please feel free to add or correct
  12. OK, understood. I had already bought the item two months ago and it would have made me unhappy if it had been unnecessary.
  13. But in addition that means that the focusing gear for the 90/2,8 isn't needed?
  14. Last year I decided to go big - switching from the tiny RX100 to FF (FullFormat). In my case, it was the A7IV as the best value for money. But having made the decision on the camera model is only one step - lens, housing and port is much more difficult. But with the support of the nice guys here and the old forum, I am now the happy owner of a sleek combination that is tailored to my needs. But how do you know what you need? This article might help. The most common type of camera used by underwater photographers is one that is inserted with lens into a housing and has either a flat (flat port) or curved (dome port) front glass at the port. Even in the days of analogue photography with the Nikonos system, for example, water contact lenses were developed that explicitly take into account the refraction of light at the water-to-glass contact surface. This reduces distortions that would otherwise occur when light hits the port at an angle and cause blurring at the edges. Nauticam has therefore developed some different types of water contact optics that evolved and serve different purposes. FCP (Fisheye Conversion Port) and WACP (Wide Angle Conversion Port) are "dry" optics designed to turn a mid-range zoom lens on the camera into a wide-angle zoom when the combination is taken under the surface. WWL (Wet Wide Lens) is the older version, somewhat less compact and made of more components, wet lens, but otherwise very similar to WACP. EMWL (Extended Macro Wide Lens) takes a different approach: different underwater lenses are placed in front of a macro lens and a flat port in order to be able to adjust on different subjects - from macro to large fish. First and newest: FCP Picture courtesly provided by Alex Mustard A dry lens that is attached directly to the housing with the appropriate (depending on the camera and lens) port extensions. In concrete terms, you can imagine the FCP as an ultra-wide-angle lens for underwater use. A lens such as the Sony 28-60, Canon 24-50 or Nikon 24-50 is attached to the camera and the FCP is mounted on the housing. This achieves a maximum field of view of 175° - a real fisheye. In the zoom position, the field of view is still 85°, i.e. still quite wide-angle, comparable to a 24mm lens over water. Next WACP: Still new, especially the WACP-C The WACP ports with the endings -C for compact, -1 for the "normal" variant and -2 for the maximum variant are not quite as extreme. Also "dry" optics - see above. They are intended to cover a field of view of approx. 70°-130° - i.e. comparable to a lens with a normal focal length (approx. 30mm) to a slight fisheye wide angle (11mm). On the camera, the WACP-C and WACP-1 require similar lenses as for the FCP (for example Sony 28-60, Canon 24-50 or Nikon 24-50), but the largest variant requires a wider-angle lens such as 14-30mm to achieve the same field of view. These water contact lenses are quite bulky and heavy (WACP-C: 2.3kg, WACP-1: 3.9kg, WACP-2: 7.0kg) and offer better sharpness than dome ports, especially at the edges, but above all they provide a wide zoom range under water and focus even directly at the glass. The WACP-C, although labelled as a compact version, also fits some of the full-frame cameras and is the most suitable solution for me personally. WWL-1(B): AFAIK the two WWL ports (WWL-1 and the newer WWL-1B) are the predecessors of the WACP ports. The area of use is the same as with WACP: field of view approx. 70-130°, i.e. wide normal focal length to slightly ultra-wide angle/fisheye when using zoom lenses with a focal length range of approx. 25-60mm. The difference to the WACP solutions is the technical design. With WWL, you have a compact plan port on the housing and the WWL is mounted wet, i.e. with water between the front glass of the port and the WWL lens. Advantage over the WACP solutions: lighter overall, and you can remove the WWL under water and then have a lightweight telephoto lens (...no one ever does...). Disadvantage: The telephoto lens is rarely needed and air bubbles between the port and the WWL can be annoying. EMWL: One size matters fits all The EMWL wants to be and can be an "all in one": The basic here is that an 90 mm macro lens is mounted on the camera and the corresponding port with flat glass at the front (flat port) is mounted on the underwater housing. A close-up lens (e.g. SMC-1) for magnification or the EMWL can be used on a flip port. The EMWL consists of two or three elements: The focusing unit, which is available in variants for Nikon, Canon and Sony, is located directly in front of the macro port An optional extension piece (relay lens) then follows, which turns the image upside down and brings the front glass closer to the subject The actual lens, which is available in 160°, 130°, 100° and 60° angle of view versions, is located at the top. The 130° lens is particularly popular and is ideal for CFWA, but also for large fish or panoramic images. In contrast to FCP and WACP, the EMWL is a wet lens, so there is water between the port glass and the focussing unit, but also between the relay lens and the objective lens. Image quality is high in every direction but bubbles between the parts can be annoying and there have been issues about focus breathing. The main areas of application are thus: FCP: Fisheye wide-angle zoom, medium volume, compact WACP: Wide-angle zoom, medium to large volume depending on version WWL: Comparable to WACP, Lighter and slightly cheaper, but with technical disadvantages EMWL: fixed focal lengths that can be changed under water, somehow bulky, objectionable appearance To show the differences in size and appearance here a pic from Alex Mustard, showing (left to right) FCP (prototype), WACP-C, WACP-2, WACP-1 (Thanks, Alex!) Cost (€)? You have already camera, housing and lens. And focus gear. And port extension. And arms, flashes and so on. Just the port: Rough estimates FCP: EDIT Jan 14th: Now on Nauticam website €6.482,00 (incl. VAT) WACP-C: €2.9k WACP-1: €4.5k WACP-2: €8.2k WWL-1b: €1.9k (with flatport) EMWL: €8.5k (with flatport, 60°, 100°, 130° optics, rely, focusing unit, flip-holder, SMC-1) If I made errors or incorrectness anybody please feel free to add or correct
  15. Ah, now I got it - that's what you meant by "There is a workaround to apply a special O-ring (and contact the lens underwater. ". OK, seems to be interesting! Thanks a lot!
  16. Hi Nikolausz, Thanks for your help! Actually both INON and AOI seem not to support splitshots, but could provide narrower focusing and better image quality. The Telesin port has a diameter of 6" (18cm) - what seems to be the lowest size for splits. But maybe worth a try.
  17. Ah, understood - "3-way" wasn't clear to me. Isn't that very short?
  18. A stick is hepful - i found the one from Insta surprisingly good https://store.insta360.com/product/invisible_selfie_stick_tripod
  19. Three from the last two months. Note the nurseshark upper left that looks like a …. In German it‘s „Molch“
  20. I just wanted to add that if you do only pictures (or at least mainly pictures) the „cheapest“ option is one of the larger iPads with USB-C and the iPad Lightroom edition. Nearly only missing histograms this LR comes at only 22.-€/year while the apple display units are quite good in brightness and color. Data transfer directly via USB-C from my Sony camera is done in seconds and avoids putting in and out of the SD-cards. nothing for the pros but for me. Low amount of weight low complexity. I also charge the camera via USB.
  21. „If I die my biggest fear is that my wife sells all my gear for the price I told her I paid“ @TimG lost your bet. She edited my spelling mistakes. 🫣
  22. …. Really great house reef but lousy conditions. Rain and storm. No time to adjust anything, will have to wait for the next holiday.
  23. My wife bought the Hero12 black and a really cheap (40.-) Domeport from „telesin“, rated down to 15m. Feels little plastic. https://www.telesin-store.com/dome-port-c0027 What makes me totally unhappy is that she took pictures that really look nice. Really. Is there a stable solution also? Meaning small dome for GoPro that will survive more than 5-10 dives and more than 15m?
  24. But always remember: GAS is limited by WAF (Women Acceptance Factor) Isotta has a high WAF, Ikelite is really low, and SeaFrogs is below zero. Nauticam and Marelux are always acceptable, like Mercedes. I don‘t want to talk about the EMWL. If you ever have seen a diver holding a housing with EMWL+ optics sitting on a Zodiac you know why…

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