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fruehaufsteher2

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  1. Hi Chriss, for the combination with the WACP-C I can add that it is nearly neutral (has an bouyancy collar). For ZEN minidome an 8-15 I fully agree that it is more negative. I didn't find the negative weight a problem when freediving. For me, it was a weight I could throw off in case I ran out of air and fainted (I'd rather lose my camera than my life, although I'm sure some underwater photographers would see it differently). In my case the A7IV-Nauticam + 8-15 + Minidome was negative at around 1kg.
  2. I do more freediving & snorkeling than scuba and own 2 of the abovementioned solutions: Canon 8-15+MC11+ZEN100 dome and Sony 28-60 + WACP-C. The Canon + minidome is small but only usable at 15mm under water (haven't tried TC yet). This combination should be fine for many situations if you can get close enough to your subjects. The 28-60 + WACP-C comes at higher weight, cost and volume but delivers great pictures and is fully zoomable. Below the manatee pics (in murky water) is taken with 8-15 and the Tigersharks with WACP-C.
  3. I can fully recommend Franco Banfi from Switzerland. Very small groups, high level of experience, under official permit. We‘ve seen many groups out there and I am quite sure we had the best encounters. It is highly dependent on guide and captain whether and when you find the whales.
  4. One thing to add: In video mode, AF is deactivated. Mostly due to the (old? I bought it used) MC11, but for me that doesn't matter.
  5. Usually the front element can be replaced. As long as you don't see it in the images, I would keep it as it is.
  6. Today I took the first dive with the 8-15, MC11 and ZEN100. OK, it was in the murky water here at Crystal Springs (sic...!) but sharpness in the center seems to be astonishing good. In the end, it's a fisheye, but for the manatees it worked quite well. It is, as @Architeuthis mentioned, a huge relief with respect to the size of gear and if you are happy with the perspective, a good solution in terms of IQ. AF is fast and reliable (A7 IV) even in weak conditions. If zooming in and out is necessary, I'll stick with the 28-60 and WACP-C.
  7. Interestingly the support really did try to help. He updated the catalogue, changed some settings - still not as fast as I wished but way faster. Lets see.
  8. Trying to contact the Adobe support might be anyway a good idea. I'll try.
  9. I do have 8GB of RAM, which could be one of the reasons… I tried to reinstall, cleared memory, but the MBA showes 100% of CPU usage.
  10. Since the Bacscatter XTerminator is really great I switched from editing on the iPadPro (2018) to the above mentioned MBA. But working with Lightroom Classic and CC feels really slow, even compared to the old iPad. How are the user experiences from other guys here on Waterpixels? Problem in front or behind the monitor? Especially sluggish is switching from one RAW to the next...
  11. I just sold my A6400. The biggest downside compared to the A6700 is the small battery... but, yes, you need a $$$ flash trigger.
  12. The other way of disabling the flash is to switch to wireless flash. But the behavior of the flashes varies with the brand. The 16-50 is optically rather weak. We use the combination of 10-20/4 (the new one) with the 6“ acrylic dome. Hard to distinguish some of the pictures from the A7 IV with WACP-C. Macro-option is the only downside.
  13. Even though the A7 R 5 is an incredibly good camera, if you have a limited budget I would consider which is the best way to go for underwater. I personally have had bad experiences with Seafrogs and have actually flooded one camera and almost flooded one camera. I would personally only consider the established durable housings: Isotta, Sea&Sea, Marelux, Nauticam, Ikelite. To build a system on a limited budget I would go more in the direction of A6700 in Nauticam. You can reuse a lot of your existing equipment. Read my A670 thread.
  14. No. One of the envelops is gone.
  15. I found the original cap very bulky under water, but very helpful at least while putting camera in&out of the housing. To ease the transport and to avoid loosing the expensive cap on the boat or in the water I used the leg of an old wetsuit, closed one end with cable ties, so I could pull it over the WACP-C like a sock. The additional benefit is keeping the lens wet/damp if it's not possible to rinse it immediately with freshwater.

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