RomiK

yeah, sorry, I don't make much distinction about arms... I have few of those and few of these and don't really know which ones am I using at the moment. Then I am sorry if it would be kind of sticking point.

My wife is entering the world of underwater photography and so I've created a fully balanced neutrally buoyant rig :-). It's Divevolk housing iPhone13Pro and Weefine SmartFocus 10000. I added ultralight arm and one handle and I replaced the base with aluminum profile saving me about 100g (!). So the total to balance was around 900g. First version had just 900g carbon float arm but the issue was that unbalanced endpoints - light -360g and housing -530g were then tilting and fighting each other. So I created this (picture still the prototype phase 🙂 ) , tested in Maldives and it's perfect! Floats are Divinycell incompressible to 180m. Happy diving 🙂

I thought Chris, that forum admins are to be impartial. So since you quoted me above how impolite I was what if you would step a little back up in the thread and see that in the topic itself I asked for just samples and no theories no speculations and after his first rude response I asked him again politely and yet he continued in his rambling like some kind of ignorant sociopath? 🤷‍♀️

Nice kit! Would you be willing to share your experience with the UWTechnics strobe trigger? How did TTL perform with which strobes? Thanks!

yes there is, the forum has 'ignore' feature. I encourage you to use it 👍

ummm me thinks that this is what this thread topic was about - let readers decide themselves with no agenda.. that is until this 121 character decided to spoil it...

I have advice for you too 🤣 go back to school and take a class in cognitive reading. Then come back to this thread, read the topic again and try to respond to the subject. Education ABC.🤣

are you for real? 🤦‍♀️ bathtub or pool vs the real conditions? I guess folks over at Nauticam have no clue on what to recommend to users of their products... They probably have no clue designing their products either... 🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️

thank you for advices 🙈🤦‍♀️ and so the other purple shots - see screenshot from sonys editor - where is the sun in those? btw - if it's not too much to ask - could you please read what I write in its entirety and react to that. I was writing something about raw editors interpretations and also that video with the same WB came out right... so the camera clearly was able to interpret WB correctly. But the raw editors have problems...

Nauticam says otherwise 🙈 It may be personal preference, by stretched corners I meant mostly fins/legs on you sample above or fins on this sample below

Do you have pictures with 30mm or 40mm extension so you can back up what you say? I said no speculations and theories to muddy up this thread please. It is a sample thread intended to help people make decisions without external confusions. Thank you.

... there was not much backlit on other two shots... and I think I know how to perform CWB 🙈 ... this thread is more about raw interpreters than anything else. If you would be interested in the other two raws I could provide them too... what was interesting to me was that LR was showing same WB yet interpreting raw files differently maybe the real question is where is getting LR WB info from and how is it interpreting... perhaps software developers might chip in...

It may be a name convention misuse from my side but I am trying to interpret what I see: - looking at unprocessed log footage on both camera and external monitor gives basically white screen (with zebras if you choose) - looking at log-to-709 conversion on the same monitors under same circumstances gives white areas (with zebras if you choose) - so you record the information but you don't see it - looking at log-to-HLG(or PQ) conversion on the HDR monitor gives the most information on what are you recording and what you can recover in post no matter which delivery format you choose So I am trying to give practical advice instead of discussing the conventions and I think what you see underwater matters the most. I think we can also agree on calling Shinobi an HDR monitor as it offers (at least some) interpretation of what you are recording into an HDR color space. And that's what matters me thinks. Not absolute nits. So Supe with all magnificent 3000nits of claimed brightness will give just that - a brightness but not possibility to see what are you recording. I hope I explained what I had in mind by HDR 🤷‍♂️. And I stand by that delivering in HDR is becoming a mainstream 🙂 Shinobi+Nauticam is $250+$2000=$2250 - I think since diving and photographing already requires so much $$$ and taking monitor underwater so much extra effort that extra $1000 is totally worth it but that's me Point taken...

I am inviting anyone to explore attached raw file shot with custom white balance in ambient light in about 30m depth. Any and all theories as to why colors are as such and the real ISO value are welcomed. Not even Sony's own editor was able to show blue water. My guess is the issue is with raw interpreters, the videos shot under the same white balance were showing fine. Lightroom this sample file shows as shot at 50000/150, the other files from other screenshot were both showing 33000/150 and one showed water blue and the other purple... have fun 🙂 20240318-085516.ARW

I started this topic to make it easier for users to search for answers. Please don't judge the images 🙈 they are here do showcase the lens optical performance in Nauticam's recommended setup. I used this lens on what supposed to be a check dive turned into a spectacular manta show in Addu atoll and the next boring dive next to a cleaning station. Except for one the images are uncropped - the entire frame. I would be anxious to see samples from this lens would provide on WACP-2 wide open to observe what - if any - benefits would water corrected optics bring. The real pictures would be awesome, not speculations and theories. Good luck anyone selecting their lenses 🤙