Sokrates

bghazzal's pictures on previous page show the cable is just hanging, with a connector in the end so i'm sure its like my trt one, trigger in the camera hot shoe and connect it to the cables when sliding in.

Dont unscrew the nuts. They are part of the housing construction and holds the fiber connectors outside the housing and have o-rings in the construction. You need to just pull the led's (unless they are glued or something) out. Mine (trt) are just pushed in, not sure about other brands. Here is mine without led's:

Not sure about prices compared to Canada, but theyre lot cheaper than Finland. I have just looked at Mic21 due to the Inon lens i might want, but im sure you can squeeze out few ¥ buying somewhere else specially if you dont want WA lens. Also worth noting are the prices inclusive of tax (Tourist can shop taxfree in Japan) Would still love to hear from people with actual experiences are the WA lenses worth it for a "extra" camera.

The RS13 is well smaller than most macro ports. Even with 230mm dome, using the ball-clamp-ball it would be well above the dome. And could be moved forward also instead of just up. I guess i could just get the WA afterwards for it, if see the need. Japan just has very nice pricing at the moment. Also would be interested how much it actually brings to the table compared to the no lens option.

There was another semi-interesting release from Laowa same time, the 35mm macro AF lens. But maybe its bit too wide to replace 100mm+MFO-3? But looking forward to seeing more of these manufacturers rolling out AF lenses. Definately waiting on someone to test the fisheye uw.

Basically title says it all. Action cam will be stuck on top of A1ii, main purpose is to film "everything" in the blue like hammers ect 20-ish meters away, scenery in Indonesia, ect. Main is cost effectiveness, so camera and "original" housing from the camera maker. Is wideangle wetlens needed? Or does the additional price justify it for my described use? The price range and what ChatGPT is suggesting, are all the obvious suspects, GoPro 13 black, Insta360 Ace Pro 2 and DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro. And Inon UFL-G140 ZD. The prices of this setup is pretty much what im willing to do splash out. Only thing is which one.

You could still shoot UL&M email about it. If i understood correctly from UWPShow, he is open to new suggestions ect. But tbh, i dont know what enabling HSS/rear requires from circuitry. Housing Aquatica->Nauticam should be no problem (unless Aquatica has like heaps of more space inside housing).

TRT is a solid piece of kit, i have used the Smart 3 for Sony 6+ months now. I was going back and forth between TRT and UW-Technics and chose TRT due to the slick looks and easy firmware updates. Representatives of both triggers are somewhat active here on waterpixels, so you can ask any questions from them. Maybe the Underwater Light & Magic trigger could be for you? Its full manual and cheap, but i dont know about HSS/Rear curtain. But im sure he will hook you up if its possible, seems like a fellow tinkerer like yourself ;)

I have understood that all Backscatter strobes are made by AOI. But i could be wrong.

I have the same trigger and it last for a long time. I use manual and not sure on the power setting (fairly low i guess), but i did like one week in a resort (3 dives per day) and the led flashed still over 75%. Using TTL or max power probably uses more. My new one uses also way more battery compared to previous (NA-A1ii vs. NA-A7RV). But i dont think magnetic switch for power works, i think the circuit needs to sense vacuum forming, instead of just turning on with vacuum already there. I might be wrong of course.

Obviously i had it stuck to my head for some reason that you need a high end expensive machine to do any of the prints. Maybe that was the case years ago. If i had realised that something like A1 can do most (if not all) of the printing i need, i would have bought one long time ago. And to be honest, that X2D isnt too pricey either. Have to see what the company decides and maybe ill just buy one for myself.

I have the older one but looks like gotta get me the new one. And reasonably priced still.

So the company im doing work for wants to buy a small 3D printer. Im obviously thinking to use this for my own means, namely designs found on this site 🤣 As they are not decided on brands or models (cheaper end tho), i thought i'd ask here which brands/models people here have. And also is there any special features/settings that needs to be found on the printer if printing things like extension rings (assuming this is more setting focused than zoom gears)? As the prices for printers are getting lower, investing in one and printing 3 or so extension rings can offset the price already if buying privately (thanks @Dave_Hicks ).

How would Canon 8-15 with 2x tc (or 1.4/no tc) on Sony work with Nauticam 230mm glass dome or 8inch acryllic? Both are listed on the Canon port chart for the lens, but the 140mm glass dome is the recommended. Looking at options with least amount of new gear purchases 🤣

Theres one on eBay but its from UK. Since its not that expensive, maybe it will go under customs eye.