ridgebackpilot

Friends: Last year, while diving Derawan in Indonesian Borneo, every other image was unlit. Originally, I thought the problem might be improper sync settings in my Nikon Z8. But I verified they were correct. The culprit seems to be my flash trigger. I've been using Retra Pro Max strobes with a Nauticam NA-26308 TTL trigger, which was originally developed for DSLR cameras. It's possible that new firmware updates in my Nikon Z8 have rendered it incompatible with the old flash trigger. Nauticam now makes a newer flash trigger designed specifically for Nikon mirrorless cameras (NA-26601), which costs $760. UW-Technics and Turtle also make flash triggers for the Nikon Z8, priced at $569 and $440, respectively. Does anyone have experience with these newer flash triggers? I'd love your recommendation for which to install in my Nauticam NA-Z8 housing. Many thanks!

I have the Nikkor 8-15mm Zoom lens with Nauticam zoom gear as well as the dome port that I'd be willing to sell. I'll send you a DM.

I've got a Nauticam N120 230mm glass dome port that I'd be willing to part with. Please send me a DM!

@NealL I'll take it! Please send me a DM with your payment details. Thanks!

Does anyone have an old, inoperable Ikelite NiMH battery pack for Ikelite substrobes lying around? I'm looking for one to rebuild, so happy to buy for parts only; need not be in working order. Please send me a DM if you have an old Ikelite battery pack available. It would need to fit DS160, DS161, or DS125 substrobes (see photo).

Thanks, @Deepunderpix for posting these instructions here. A couple of years ago, I followed your advice on Wetpixel and successfully rebuilt my DS160 battery pack. Doing it myself cost about $40 in raw materials (Tenergy NiMH cells from Amazon) and saved me at least $250 per battery pack over buying replacement batteries from Ikelite. And I learned how to spot weld at the same time!

Lens and gear are SOLD!

Kudos to @Abi_Camera for a couple of smooth transactions, involving both buying and selling!

Update: The following are SOLD: Nauticam 19138 zoom gear (N1635-Z) for Nikon AF-S 16-35mm wide-angle zoom lens Nauticam 19122 focus gear (N105VR-F) for Nikon AF-S 105mm macro lens This one is still FOR SALE: Nauticam 19154 zoom gear for Nikon Z 24-7-mm f/4 & Z 14-30mm f4 lenses And I'm still LOOKING for this one: Nauticam 19141 zoom gear (N1835-Z) for Nikon AF-S 18-35mm wide-angle zoom lens Please let me know what you have or need!

I'm putting together a Sony A7RII underwater photography system for a friend of mine, and need the Nauticam N100 to N120 Port Adapter II (37305) so that I can use my existing ports and wet optics, all of which are N120. Please let me know if you have this adapter and would be willing to part with it! Cheers, Mike

Found the Nauticam Extension ring 40 but still need the 19141 Zoom gear N1835-Z if anyone has one you're willing to part with!

Thanks for your responses! I suspect you're all correct: This phenomenon was more likely due to one of my strobes being positioned too close and too far forward. This only showed up on a couple of shots in the same sequence. A bubble or dirty port would have affected all the shots in the range.

Anyone know what may have caused the light anomaly on the left side of these photos? These were taken in Raja Ampat last month, on my first day shooting the Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 24-50mm lens, Nauticam housing, WWL-C wet lens, Retra Pro Max strobes. Would an errant bubble of air between the lens and the port explain this phenomenon? Or perhaps something else like strobe flare?

I have the following Nauticam zoom and focus gears for sale: Nauticam 19138 zoom gear (N1635-Z) for Nikon AF-S 16-35mm wide-angle zoom lens Nauticam 19154 zoom gear for Nikon Z 24-7-mm f/4 & Z 14-30mm f4 lenses Nauticam 19122 focus gear (N105VR-F) for Nikon AF-S 105mm macro lens I'm looking for the following: Nauticam 19141 zoom gear (N1835-Z) for Nikon AF-S 18-35mm wide-angle zoom lens Nauticam 22140 N120 Extension Ring 40 II Please let me know what you need and what you've got!

The main advantage is being able to quickly preview a shot you've just taken, without having to remove your eye from the viewfinder. That allows you to make quick adjustments to ISO, f-stop, and shutter speed as necessary, also without taking your eye away from the viewfinder.