Sokrates

Would be interesting to know if the dryer was actually marine certified (more expensive) than just normal off the shelf fitted on the boat. I would imagine that dryer is pretty much running 24/7.

Some more tests on it https://www.seacam.com/en/opp-test/ Includes also a huge 900mb pdf link to test images.

Good choice. Now you dont have to second guess about the camera. Theres a good chance you can use the old camera to some extent, fingers crossed. Just dont force it when trying. But to be in the situation where you would need the old body, something really catastrophic would have already happened. For lenses, you could just forget the 16-35 as the 8-15 covers very well, specially with the TC. And have the 140mm dome which would be better for your Polynesia. Or if want to go with big dome route cheaply, get the 8" acrylic dome. They go for €400 used and brand spankers isnt too much either (compared to 230mm glass). And in all seriousness, im still going to suggest Nikonos RS13 for the long term😉 Unless the upcoming Laowa 8-15 AF is really really really good.

Zoom gear designer mentioned here Also its suggested that 30mm is enough extension same thread few replies in

Yes. https://www.metabones.com/products/details/mb-ef-e-bt5 I think the Mark IV works also but im not 100%. The Sony native Laowa 8-15 is also coming "in near future", if you have some time to wait (and believe it will be good).

Yes, the info found on it is bit limited. But apparently it was pretty good lens optically and looks like it was bloody expensive aswell. Thats one reason i figured maybe try something with it, rather than just toss it. Obviously im hoping it turns out to be the next big thing for Sony 🤣 (wishful thinking) Too bad i sold my 28-60 with WACP when went for RS13 only setup. I guess next step would be designing and printing the adapter and buying a lens. Maybe this is one more "forever" project on the list. If anyone would have any suggestions what to do with the lens, would be grateful.

So.. I found a real old Gates housing listed for 100EUR. I figured ill just buy it because the pictures showed it had a dome attached (pictures were bad) and my initial thoughts were to buy the Gates-Nauticam adapter, or possibly design and print one myself. So i went to pick everything up today, and the housing weights a ton, cant figure out what camera its for as it just says Gates. Old one surely as it has viewfinder for eyepiece. Could be just pre-digital even? Anyway i would have been happy with the dome (ended up being 140mm acrylic SP44), but the seller then said that i can take the other lens also. Hold on, there was another lens? So there was also a Gates SWP44, in great condition. And this got me thinking more, can it be adapted and used with 28-60 on Sony kinda like as WACP? Or is it just expensive piece of glass that has no use anymore?

Just need to order the old Kraken bulkhead. New one is perma attached like Nauticam and its M24 only. Looks like the isotta housing has three M16 holes. New and old Kraken side by side (old on left)

Just checking, are there any news on these?

Friend of mine is just getting the same in few months time, OM1ii in Nauticam. He is getting the the ULM laser trigger, but i guess you want to use HSS when looking at the TRT one? For the size, im 99% sure the TRT fits, as the Nauticam housing has huge space for their own bulky trigger. I have TRT 3 myself, for Sony, but its pretty much the same. The only thing i dont like is that you have to connect the cable from led's to trigger when taking/putting camera in, and have forgotten about it once and almost felt like i broke the pins/cable when taking the camera out.

Size for travel. RS13 weights 1070g total (lens and port). Some sizes/weights were discussed here. Actual size is this: And its sharper than any water contact optic and most (if not all) dome combos. Drawbacks are fixed 13mm and availability.

Investment in a Nikonos 13 might be an option (specially for humpback encounters), but expensive and not suitable with your August timeframe tho. I got rid of my WACP-C and got RS13, havent missed WACP-C a single bit.

Im looking to get some RFQ's from Chinese glass manufacturers for 200-300mm domes. What would be the thickness for the glass? They make 1-10mm. On the webpage they say domes are for underwater photography, so that leads me to think they might actually supply some of the Chinese manufacturers like Seafrogs or Weefine. Or maybe even higher end ones. Some of the prices i found were under $20 for a smaller dome. And yes, might go down the acrylic route found on this thread, but hey, why not glass if its cheap.

There is also the option of 3D printing your own. Files can be found in the DIY forum.

Looks like it is N120 afterall, but it also looks to be threaded so its a no-go with current N120 system. https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-n120-compact-port-extension-20 Says it needs the compact base adapter and compact system port, with threads. Also the picture on the for sale ad looks like it has threads (to me). https://fotografit.eu/upload_dir/pics/Nauticam/Lens-charts/2015_01_Nauticam-Port-Chart.pdf also the old port chart has only the 18XXX extensions with only the 18XXX ports/base. But again, im not 100% on this, its just Claude working for me.

Im going to say yes, but with reservations. If the lens uses zoom/focus gear and its supposed to be manipulated with the knob in the adapter, its misaligned. Does the lens fit through the N100 part completely And i think compact port extension system is actually N85, not N100. Here is the 30mm version with the same SKU# -edit Also the old compact port system looks its threaded attachment? Im sure someone has better info than my guessing, but it is over 10 years old system.

Pretty sure they could make conversion kit for any Sony model with these 1mm differences and buttons in same spots, but thats not good business now is it? But thats for another topic. Just buy the new one ;)

Just circling back to the A7IV in other housing, i think it can function also in the A7R VI housing, atleast on some level. Its not 1:1 with the A7R V either. And A7R VI with A7 IV: Yes there are differences, but there might be a small possibility that most buttons align. Just buy the A7R VI and you wont be thinking any what if's with the brand spankers new camera. New camera to fail critically without it being somewhat due to the housing, the odds are super small. If its due to the housing like it most likely will be, you dont want to stick your old camera in either.

Just buy the new one. That is if you can afford it and can get the housing in time for your trip. If you have time, wait for a few weeks for some actual UW reviews on the body. I wouldnt put any weight on fitting a older body in the housing as backup, there is something seriously wrong if you have to do that and you are probably thinking about that instead of diving. That being said, A7RV is still a magnificent body and produces great results. Maybe make a compromise and get the A7RV and change WACP-C to WACP-1. Although in Polynesia has alot of split opportunities (blacktips in the shallows with nice beach/ect backgrounds), so the traditional with a dome route might be better (maybe even the Canon 8-15 with TC). Maybe have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXlG9Fkd1-Y for some ideas. Alex and Matthew has a small video on the A7RVI also.

I think this has been discussed or requested before, but i couldnt find from this feedback forum atleast. Could the editing of topics be enabled in the classified forum, as now all that are sold doesnt distinguish themself from still available ones. Just pain in the ass to go through the posts, load all pictures, scroll down and see "sold" post at the end. Or some "mark as sold" button if the board has a feature like that.

Just feels its "too little, too late" upgrade from the 330's.

bghazzal's pictures on previous page show the cable is just hanging, with a connector in the end so i'm sure its like my trt one, trigger in the camera hot shoe and connect it to the cables when sliding in.

Dont unscrew the nuts. They are part of the housing construction and holds the fiber connectors outside the housing and have o-rings in the construction. You need to just pull the led's (unless they are glued or something) out. Mine (trt) are just pushed in, not sure about other brands. Here is mine without led's:

Not sure about prices compared to Canada, but theyre lot cheaper than Finland. I have just looked at Mic21 due to the Inon lens i might want, but im sure you can squeeze out few ¥ buying somewhere else specially if you dont want WA lens. Also worth noting are the prices inclusive of tax (Tourist can shop taxfree in Japan) Would still love to hear from people with actual experiences are the WA lenses worth it for a "extra" camera.