Sokrates

Im looking to get some RFQ's from Chinese glass manufacturers for 200-300mm domes. What would be the thickness for the glass? They make 1-10mm. On the webpage they say domes are for underwater photography, so that leads me to think they might actually supply some of the Chinese manufacturers like Seafrogs or Weefine. Or maybe even higher end ones. Some of the prices i found were under $20 for a smaller dome. And yes, might go down the acrylic route found on this thread, but hey, why not glass if its cheap.

There is also the option of 3D printing your own. Files can be found in the DIY forum.

Looks like it is N120 afterall, but it also looks to be threaded so its a no-go with current N120 system. https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-n120-compact-port-extension-20 Says it needs the compact base adapter and compact system port, with threads. Also the picture on the for sale ad looks like it has threads (to me). https://fotografit.eu/upload_dir/pics/Nauticam/Lens-charts/2015_01_Nauticam-Port-Chart.pdf also the old port chart has only the 18XXX extensions with only the 18XXX ports/base. But again, im not 100% on this, its just Claude working for me.

Im going to say yes, but with reservations. If the lens uses zoom/focus gear and its supposed to be manipulated with the knob in the adapter, its misaligned. Does the lens fit through the N100 part completely And i think compact port extension system is actually N85, not N100. Here is the 30mm version with the same SKU# -edit Also the old compact port system looks its threaded attachment? Im sure someone has better info than my guessing, but it is over 10 years old system.

Pretty sure they could make conversion kit for any Sony model with these 1mm differences and buttons in same spots, but thats not good business now is it? But thats for another topic. Just buy the new one ;)

Just circling back to the A7IV in other housing, i think it can function also in the A7R VI housing, atleast on some level. Its not 1:1 with the A7R V either. And A7R VI with A7 IV: Yes there are differences, but there might be a small possibility that most buttons align. Just buy the A7R VI and you wont be thinking any what if's with the brand spankers new camera. New camera to fail critically without it being somewhat due to the housing, the odds are super small. If its due to the housing like it most likely will be, you dont want to stick your old camera in either.

Just buy the new one. That is if you can afford it and can get the housing in time for your trip. If you have time, wait for a few weeks for some actual UW reviews on the body. I wouldnt put any weight on fitting a older body in the housing as backup, there is something seriously wrong if you have to do that and you are probably thinking about that instead of diving. That being said, A7RV is still a magnificent body and produces great results. Maybe make a compromise and get the A7RV and change WACP-C to WACP-1. Although in Polynesia has alot of split opportunities (blacktips in the shallows with nice beach/ect backgrounds), so the traditional with a dome route might be better (maybe even the Canon 8-15 with TC). Maybe have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXlG9Fkd1-Y for some ideas. Alex and Matthew has a small video on the A7RVI also.

I think this has been discussed or requested before, but i couldnt find from this feedback forum atleast. Could the editing of topics be enabled in the classified forum, as now all that are sold doesnt distinguish themself from still available ones. Just pain in the ass to go through the posts, load all pictures, scroll down and see "sold" post at the end. Or some "mark as sold" button if the board has a feature like that.

Just feels its "too little, too late" upgrade from the 330's.

bghazzal's pictures on previous page show the cable is just hanging, with a connector in the end so i'm sure its like my trt one, trigger in the camera hot shoe and connect it to the cables when sliding in.

Dont unscrew the nuts. They are part of the housing construction and holds the fiber connectors outside the housing and have o-rings in the construction. You need to just pull the led's (unless they are glued or something) out. Mine (trt) are just pushed in, not sure about other brands. Here is mine without led's:

Not sure about prices compared to Canada, but theyre lot cheaper than Finland. I have just looked at Mic21 due to the Inon lens i might want, but im sure you can squeeze out few ¥ buying somewhere else specially if you dont want WA lens. Also worth noting are the prices inclusive of tax (Tourist can shop taxfree in Japan) Would still love to hear from people with actual experiences are the WA lenses worth it for a "extra" camera.

The RS13 is well smaller than most macro ports. Even with 230mm dome, using the ball-clamp-ball it would be well above the dome. And could be moved forward also instead of just up. I guess i could just get the WA afterwards for it, if see the need. Japan just has very nice pricing at the moment. Also would be interested how much it actually brings to the table compared to the no lens option.

There was another semi-interesting release from Laowa same time, the 35mm macro AF lens. But maybe its bit too wide to replace 100mm+MFO-3? But looking forward to seeing more of these manufacturers rolling out AF lenses. Definately waiting on someone to test the fisheye uw.

Basically title says it all. Action cam will be stuck on top of A1ii, main purpose is to film "everything" in the blue like hammers ect 20-ish meters away, scenery in Indonesia, ect. Main is cost effectiveness, so camera and "original" housing from the camera maker. Is wideangle wetlens needed? Or does the additional price justify it for my described use? The price range and what ChatGPT is suggesting, are all the obvious suspects, GoPro 13 black, Insta360 Ace Pro 2 and DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro. And Inon UFL-G140 ZD. The prices of this setup is pretty much what im willing to do splash out. Only thing is which one.

You could still shoot UL&M email about it. If i understood correctly from UWPShow, he is open to new suggestions ect. But tbh, i dont know what enabling HSS/rear requires from circuitry. Housing Aquatica->Nauticam should be no problem (unless Aquatica has like heaps of more space inside housing).

TRT is a solid piece of kit, i have used the Smart 3 for Sony 6+ months now. I was going back and forth between TRT and UW-Technics and chose TRT due to the slick looks and easy firmware updates. Representatives of both triggers are somewhat active here on waterpixels, so you can ask any questions from them. Maybe the Underwater Light & Magic trigger could be for you? Its full manual and cheap, but i dont know about HSS/Rear curtain. But im sure he will hook you up if its possible, seems like a fellow tinkerer like yourself ;)

I have understood that all Backscatter strobes are made by AOI. But i could be wrong.

I have the same trigger and it last for a long time. I use manual and not sure on the power setting (fairly low i guess), but i did like one week in a resort (3 dives per day) and the led flashed still over 75%. Using TTL or max power probably uses more. My new one uses also way more battery compared to previous (NA-A1ii vs. NA-A7RV). But i dont think magnetic switch for power works, i think the circuit needs to sense vacuum forming, instead of just turning on with vacuum already there. I might be wrong of course.

Obviously i had it stuck to my head for some reason that you need a high end expensive machine to do any of the prints. Maybe that was the case years ago. If i had realised that something like A1 can do most (if not all) of the printing i need, i would have bought one long time ago. And to be honest, that X2D isnt too pricey either. Have to see what the company decides and maybe ill just buy one for myself.

I have the older one but looks like gotta get me the new one. And reasonably priced still.

So the company im doing work for wants to buy a small 3D printer. Im obviously thinking to use this for my own means, namely designs found on this site 🤣 As they are not decided on brands or models (cheaper end tho), i thought i'd ask here which brands/models people here have. And also is there any special features/settings that needs to be found on the printer if printing things like extension rings (assuming this is more setting focused than zoom gears)? As the prices for printers are getting lower, investing in one and printing 3 or so extension rings can offset the price already if buying privately (thanks @Dave_Hicks ).

How would Canon 8-15 with 2x tc (or 1.4/no tc) on Sony work with Nauticam 230mm glass dome or 8inch acryllic? Both are listed on the Canon port chart for the lens, but the 140mm glass dome is the recommended. Looking at options with least amount of new gear purchases 🤣

Theres one on eBay but its from UK. Since its not that expensive, maybe it will go under customs eye.

Looks great and must try if and when i need one. But also i have to be first to ask, N100 possible also? I think the 30mm might be in high demand with alot of uses across multiple lenses.