Sokrates

The RS13 is well smaller than most macro ports. Even with 230mm dome, using the ball-clamp-ball it would be well above the dome. And could be moved forward also instead of just up. I guess i could just get the WA afterwards for it, if see the need. Japan just has very nice pricing at the moment. Also would be interested how much it actually brings to the table compared to the no lens option.

There was another semi-interesting release from Laowa same time, the 35mm macro AF lens. But maybe its bit too wide to replace 100mm+MFO-3? But looking forward to seeing more of these manufacturers rolling out AF lenses. Definately waiting on someone to test the fisheye uw.

Basically title says it all. Action cam will be stuck on top of A1ii, main purpose is to film "everything" in the blue like hammers ect 20-ish meters away, scenery in Indonesia, ect. Main is cost effectiveness, so camera and "original" housing from the camera maker. Is wideangle wetlens needed? Or does the additional price justify it for my described use? The price range and what ChatGPT is suggesting, are all the obvious suspects, GoPro 13 black, Insta360 Ace Pro 2 and DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro. And Inon UFL-G140 ZD. The prices of this setup is pretty much what im willing to do splash out. Only thing is which one.

You could still shoot UL&M email about it. If i understood correctly from UWPShow, he is open to new suggestions ect. But tbh, i dont know what enabling HSS/rear requires from circuitry. Housing Aquatica->Nauticam should be no problem (unless Aquatica has like heaps of more space inside housing).

TRT is a solid piece of kit, i have used the Smart 3 for Sony 6+ months now. I was going back and forth between TRT and UW-Technics and chose TRT due to the slick looks and easy firmware updates. Representatives of both triggers are somewhat active here on waterpixels, so you can ask any questions from them. Maybe the Underwater Light & Magic trigger could be for you? Its full manual and cheap, but i dont know about HSS/Rear curtain. But im sure he will hook you up if its possible, seems like a fellow tinkerer like yourself ;)

I have understood that all Backscatter strobes are made by AOI. But i could be wrong.

I have the same trigger and it last for a long time. I use manual and not sure on the power setting (fairly low i guess), but i did like one week in a resort (3 dives per day) and the led flashed still over 75%. Using TTL or max power probably uses more. My new one uses also way more battery compared to previous (NA-A1ii vs. NA-A7RV). But i dont think magnetic switch for power works, i think the circuit needs to sense vacuum forming, instead of just turning on with vacuum already there. I might be wrong of course.

Obviously i had it stuck to my head for some reason that you need a high end expensive machine to do any of the prints. Maybe that was the case years ago. If i had realised that something like A1 can do most (if not all) of the printing i need, i would have bought one long time ago. And to be honest, that X2D isnt too pricey either. Have to see what the company decides and maybe ill just buy one for myself.

I have the older one but looks like gotta get me the new one. And reasonably priced still.

So the company im doing work for wants to buy a small 3D printer. Im obviously thinking to use this for my own means, namely designs found on this site 🤣 As they are not decided on brands or models (cheaper end tho), i thought i'd ask here which brands/models people here have. And also is there any special features/settings that needs to be found on the printer if printing things like extension rings (assuming this is more setting focused than zoom gears)? As the prices for printers are getting lower, investing in one and printing 3 or so extension rings can offset the price already if buying privately (thanks @Dave_Hicks ).

How would Canon 8-15 with 2x tc (or 1.4/no tc) on Sony work with Nauticam 230mm glass dome or 8inch acryllic? Both are listed on the Canon port chart for the lens, but the 140mm glass dome is the recommended. Looking at options with least amount of new gear purchases 🤣

Theres one on eBay but its from UK. Since its not that expensive, maybe it will go under customs eye.

Looks great and must try if and when i need one. But also i have to be first to ask, N100 possible also? I think the 30mm might be in high demand with alot of uses across multiple lenses.

Tbh A1 shouldnt be the problem. I assume you have latest firmware installed? There has been AF improvements in the updates. Maybe some settings are wrong? Theres couple of YouTube videos by Alex Mustard (probably others also) about UW settings on the A1. In my opinion MFO-1 should not be the solution, it should be an addition or enhancement.

This is an issue with older Sony bodies if i remember correctly. I dont remember it being a problem with my A7RV and 90mm. Which one are you using? Maybe MFO-1 helps little bit?

Good point about warranty, specially with Sea&Sea as their quality has been something to hope for in the past. Havent heard anything about the YS-D130R quality, maybe its better? These are fairly cheap specially after the tax, clocking in at €490 for one or €600 for the pro package.

Resurrecting this little bit as these are cheap in Japan and im going there (other topic in general). How is the battery, havent really seen anything but can use proprietary li-ion or AA as far i as i understood. Is the li-ion only half the side of the normal AA set as pictured? Or can you use rechargeable li-ion AA size in the AA tray?

That depends on the Japan import fees and what you get back at the airport. You get 13% more Yen compared to year ago and 40% more compared to 5 years ago. But like i said, i havent found a shop that sells them to see the price. In Europe you pay VAT that you cant get back as private customer. Absolutely no point buying them in Europe as a private person, specially if going abroad when you can buy them.

I have some work trips coming up, and one is going to be Japan, Tokyo/Yokohama area. Been contemplating on buying new strobes, and as the exchange rate is very favorable this got me thinking. Why not buy them from Japan? Found atleast S&S being priced very nicely, but i would be probably on the market for Retras. Problems im facing are the design of Japanese website. And finding the suppliers online. So any help on websites and/or diveshops with Nauticam/Retra would be appreciated.

Plus 130 EUR for the periscope stick. Btw all this was posted 2 months ago here https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/3241-nauticam-back-on-the-compact-sportsaction-market-insta360-x5/

Aaah, lol, all these R's and 5's from different brands. Didnt even realise it was Canon you were selling and Sony you are buying. But if you really want to go smaller, look into something that works behind a small 4" dome, those 230mm and 180mm domes are big, no matter what camera you have (just assuming you are going with similar lenses from before).

2 minute job. UWT trigger and A7IV.

I just listed the A7RV housings in the table since the op was looking for that. TBH, i dont see the point going from Marelux->Isotta, specially when the op has full set with all bells and whistles for Marelux. The miniscule size difference just dont justify it for me atleast. Maybe when changing camera model/brand, but sticking with A7RV makes no sense (to me).

How much smaller is the dealbreaker for you? Below are the A7RV housing sizes with base housing only. Ports ect should be fairly same size for all. Isotta Nauticam Marelux Sea&Sea Width 28.2cm 34cm 33.46cm 33cm Height 18.6cm 17cm 18.98cm 16.9cm Depth 12.7cm 12.7cm 13.23cm 13.7cm Total 59.5cm 63.7cm 65.67cm 63.6cm % larger 0 7.06% 10.37% 6.89% Weight Not listed 2.7kg 3kg 2.9kg Isotta is clearly smallest in width, and you can see that in pictures also. It also looks most crammed with buttons in the back. Wouldn't say Isotta is very compact compared to other aluminum housings, with 7% difference.

Review of somesorts from Bluewater. I havent watched it yet.