ChipBPhoto

I agree with all @bghazzal shared. Another consideration beyond overall durability is the quality of light as the battery is depleated. Keldans do not lose their intensity as the battery level drops. This is key for consistency during the entire video as well as ensuring both lights match brightness when you want an even lighting across the scene. In shallower scenarios this may not be as noticeable, but it is critical when artificial light is the more dominant source. While Keldans demand a premium price, their durability and overall quality allow them to be considered an investment that will hold up. While I have not personally tried them, Kraken also claims their newer top-tier video lights maintain intensity throughout usage. There is a substantial price difference between the brands, if that is a factor. Their remote control seems to be interesting as well.

Great frames, @RomiK ! For years my go-to is the WACP-C as well. Seems that is perfect for the hero pics with an adapted 8-15 for the ultra-wide school images.

Hi, Brett, That’s a really good question. The answer is the pressure from those nozzles is far too strong to blow out under the buttons without potentially damaging the o-rings. The trick is to have enough pressure to gently blow out any residual water without putting undo pressure in the tiny o-rings. The battery powered blower (I use one similar) has settings to adjust the force. I find I will often use the lower power when concentrating on the buttons and then a higher speed with cleaning the dome. I personally find using a blower does a better job than a towel for final cleaning at the end of the day or before storing. Enjoy! Chip

My guess is it will be the same as the 8-15, but we will see. It could be a loss of flexibility if there are no options for a TC. The new Nauticam N100 140 port with removable shade design is a great addition. Easily being able to remove and replace underwater will be a big improvement.

I do the same. This has worked very well for many years with no issues on the ports. Taking the time to properly clean and blow dry it when back in the room is the key.

I don’t know about the Laowa and a TC, but I reluctantly tried the Sony 2x with my Canon 8-15. I have to say I am surprised at how much I like it. The TC provides a bit of zoom when needed. It is quite nice in the water behind a 140 dome. Keep in mind I also had the Canon and adapter prior to adding the TC. Starting from scratch, the Laowa will be significantly less expensive.

If you decide you want both on a trip, consider picking up a WWL-1B. Basically the same quality as the rest, with the faster focus and greater zoom range of the WACP-C in a smaller, more travel friendly size. I planned on selling my WWL when I picked up the C, but it has been nice to have both for that reason.

Hi, @Peter Vanek You are asking the same questions I have asked myself. Attached is a very detailed review and comparison of the FCP-1 by Nauticam Ambassador Nicolas Remy. I found it to be consistent with usage reports from my friends who own it as well as others optics. I agree with the summary: Incredible wide angle versatility with a tradeoff of DoF and sharpness at more open apertures. The Underwater ClubNauticam Fisheye Conversion Port (FCP): field review - Th...Transform your standard kit lens in a fisheye zoom-through fisheye lens with full frame image quality.

Hey Wolfgang, Thanks for sharing! First, as all have seen I enjoy and primarily use the Nauticam optics such as the WACP and WWL. With that said, I also use a Canon 8-15 with the Sony 2x TC for something a bit wider when needed. While I personally find the Sony 28-60 behind the optics to be a faster and more consistent focus lock due to the 8-15 having to negotiate both the adapter and TC, I have been equally pleased with the image quality of both. This is especially true now with the modern software that allows a little tightening of the images in post as needed. The macro images have a sharper feel and are also excellent. I agree that this exercise shows there is a great deal of overlap which provides terrific flexibility in a single dive with today's options. It ultimately comes back to using the right tool for the right job as the best strategy whenever possible. We just do not have to be quite as singularly range limited as we have been in the past. Again, thanks for illustrating the options! chip

Correct, in Sony world the mid-macro range is overlooked in modern FF terms. Perhaps Sony research may show this to be a small market opportunity in the overall lens needs and sales. Maybe Laowa or similar may provide a fresh solution in the future, again depending on if it is viewed to be a profitable venture. With that said, I agree that either the MFO-3 or MV60 could be a win with the upside of having the equivalent of 2 high-quality lens options in the same dive. Besides, it's only money, right? At least that's what I have to tell myself. 😳 😆

Hi @CCRphoto, A mid macro has been a challenge in the Sony world. For me, this specific need is for blackwater dives where a quick focus is a must. My personal solution has been a Canon EF-S 60 macro with a Metabones adapter. Yes, this is a APS-C lens, but in blackwater the vignette is a moot point. As for performance, I find it surprisingly quick to focus and quite sharp at 1:1. It works well with Sony AF-C. It is unfortunately a discontinued lens, but I find them fairly frequently on the pre-owned market at a very reasonable price. A modern and more versatile option is using either a Nauticam MFO-3 or Marelux MV60. Both work with the 90 or 100 macro lens and convert the view to a wider 60mm macro equivalent. It is more of an investment, but offers greater variety in macro performance.

Congratulations on a successful inaugural dive! Happy to hear it was both productive and enjoyable. The images you shared and the fact your partner didn’t to need to talk you off a ledge are wins! Both are what it’s all about. 😎

I have to agree with the opinions and experience above. While the WWLs are terrific wet mount options, the WAPC-C is the way to go for a dry mount solution. I started with a WWL and heard the real world encounters with small bubbles between the lens and port from people I personally know and trust. Modern auto focus can easily lock on to those and miss the focus of your intended subject. The WACP-C is ready for action as soon as you hit the water!

Hi @Architeuthis I have the same issue. For me it seems to be when I use DeNoise in LR and then try to send the image to PS at some point later in the workflow. If I have an image with DeNoise activated that will not load in PS, but then I toggle off deNoise it will process as normal in PS. So the choice become DeNoise in LR or have the ability to use PS which for me includes Backscatter Xterminator. I am not saying this is the only issue or the full solution, but just reporting what I have experienced. Enjoy! Chip

@TropicLeslie I agree that it seems like dust spots. They can be quite common on mirrorless sensors. To start, thoroughly clean both your lenses. This is key! (I use Zeiss disposable lens wipes.) Then test the sensor by photoing a light colored wall out of the housing and review the image(s) for dark spots. Dust spots are often not visible in dark areas of the photo. Repeat this with both of your lenses. If you see the same dots using both lenses it is most likely dust on your sensor. Carefully clean the sensor with a manual bulb dust blower such a Giottos Rocket, but do not use canned air, a power blower, or similar. High powered air can damage the sensor. If the dots are not seen, place the camera back in the housing then repeat the test with both lenses to check the port. The goal is to find the origination of the spots by a systematic process of elimination and then resolve the issue. Good luck! chip