Grantmac

Being able to skip the adapter and extension for Sony shooters would be a weight savings. If it fits well behind any dome.

You have tried positioning the monitor forward over the extension when in use?

I recently (yesterday) put the original DSLR 45 degree viewfinder on my A7RIII and it definitely goes through more battery. But I prefer using it so far after just one wide angle dive. The older viewfinder doesn't show the edges where the settings are that well unless I adjust my angle of view. But for now it was worth getting the older unit at a major discount to see if it's what I want to use. I'm sure macro will be a different challenge.

Mine is a two cell board and I might get 40 hours total on name brand cells. I'll be going rechargeable.

I'd be fine charging every 5th dive if it means I can't kill a fresh set through leaving it on for a day by accident.

My use case is more to disable the sensor so I can do an overnight soak without first opening the housing and not run the battery down.

Dave I believe that is their existing MF fisheye, although likely the optics will be the same. Whether it can outperform an adapted Canon on Sony will be interesting to see. The MF version isn't considered quite as good but perhaps having a more compact lens will be worth it. Unless it's based on some sort of DSLR focal distance with built in adapters which apparently they've done with other lenses.

A mirrorless native 8-15 fisheye is very exciting indeed, especially if they do a Sony FE mount.

I don't have any pictures with me, but I use DIY Dyneema soft shackles attached to the top clamps. Strong enough they will never break, won't corrode or damage anything and you can cut them if needed. Extremely cheap as well. I have a boltsnap attached to one side and an empty one on the other.

I'm likely getting the Kraken M16 so I can just leave my housing under vacuum for most of a trip. As I've found recently though the Nauticam leak sensor will rip through a set of batteries in a few days if left on. I am thinking perhaps of a magnetic reed switch to allow it to be turned on and off without opening the housing?

Since we're discussing extension rings: could we do integrated floatation on them? I've wondered about using N120 ports with N100 to N120 adapter plus custom extensions rather than the N100 ports usually used on my Sony as a means of adding floation.

Even with the detect turned off at least on my Sony they won't let you run both the screen showing settings along with the EVF showing picture, unless you manually toggle between them. It's too bad to not have a way to use that feature since I would like it I think.

I'd get the DPV to stop rolling on its own. Possibly look at buoyancy up top and some weight on the bottom.

The 8-15 and 140mm seems like the most sense to me, especially since you have the lens and can add a TC. I do some casual river snorkeling in the PNW but haven't been able to shoot a salmon spawn yet.

I also lost a shackle from a Nauticam MP clamp and I'm considering if I want to do a different attachment. Perhaps a large split ring or soft connection of some sort.