Michi

Thx! Cloth is an interesting idea! I will give it a try…

Thx a lot. I really appreciate the help and thoughts from everyone!!! Here We go with the first four photos from the wide angle / fisheye Workshop - after retutning yesterday ( I will post a few more in the other Forum) with 8-15 with 2xTC …

Thx for the advice! Yes, now like before… rotate without any scratching Sound etc. I do a lot of muck and The sand and salt creeps in everywhere! I am also in a lot of destinations where I can not let it soak… : Small fishing boats / villages and no 24/7 water Infrastructure with Water supply… amazing diving but no rinse tanks! And after those Trips I let it soak for several days and try to really take good care with warm Water and cleaning… but in our case before with This incident: I was having it after every dive day for 10 min in a tank in around 30 cm depth… very very Strange… I will send the 35.5 to a Service inspection and let everyone know what they say because this can cause a really big Drama for every user … I can Imagine people can’t Pack properly for flights etc when not able to Open… Next Post will be some photos after all negative at least some positive…

Thx for the advice! So you just rotate them a bit in direction of the line (away from Circle) and try to unlock again?

I was able to fix the problem overnight with WD-40— I was able to get the yellow marked screws out, open the lock mechanism! I had to shake the whole case, and then it finally popped open by rotating at the same time!!! As you can see in the second picture, there’s no other way to access it. I’ll make sure to always have the right Allen key and some oil on hand from now on. The Nauticam set of keys doesn’t quite fit the N100 on the N120. Better to get something that works 100 percent! This issue was really the worst problem with a whole set up which affected everything… Best regards and thanks to everyone for the help :-))

Thx. But I am at the end of the world and even WD40 is luxury but I will give it a try!

For me, authenticity is important. Excessive editing, including the use of AI, should not be allowed.

Hi, thx so far ! It’s: Sony A1 plus Sony 2xTC plus Metabones plus 8-15 canon. Nauticam housing, 30mm n100 extension plus 35.5 n120/n100 adapter plus 30mm n120 extension. I try WD40 to help the Allen key. My camera shop told me to try warm water… Every other recommendation is highly appreciated!

Hi, Attached you find a video Which shows that I can not open the 35.5 n120 to n100 adapter Anymore. The problem is, I can’t get the cam / Lens out if I cannot open this because it’s not going over n100! it’s stuck! Do you have any trick? Also, the screws with the Allan key were kind of stuck, and I can’t open from outside… Camera and Lens are trapped inside :-/ It’s the special 8-15mm with 2x TC combo - zoom ring / big lens blocking from release… First time something like this happened… greetings Michael 002dbac3-dc9e-4460-a457-6dd3c82d33b7.mov

Thx - I think the same! Thx for explaining!!!

Thx for your comment and explanation! About your question: The Electronic is 30 fps. Strobe should be 20 fps. Mechanical is 10 fps.

Can you really Shoot in electronic shutter up to 1/400? I think it’s Limited in Electric to 1/200 (without HSS)?! With mechanical shutter it’s up to 1/400 (and with my Ikelite ds161, inon z330 And Marelux Apollo III and Nauticam trigger even Limited to 1/320…)?!

Hi Chip, thx! have you ever tried with electricic shutter to fire in serial mode? With the Backscatter strobe you have also a fast recycling one… Can the trigger / strobe keep up with a certain speed? I want to Use my new Marelux Apollo with my Sony a1 in serial Mode.

Hi Tim, thx! have you ever tried with electricic shutter to fire in serial mode? Can the trigger keep up with a certain speed? I want to Use my new Marelux Apollo with my Sony a1 in serial Mode.

Thx for your research! Does anyone have real life experiences regarding liability etc of those triggers??? I don’t need TTL…