Hi, my Nauticam Trigger just supports mechanical shutter with my Sony A1 to trigger my strobes (Marelux, Ikelite and Inon) via optical signal/cable.

What triggers can send a signal when fired in non mechanical (electric) shutter mode of camera?

40 minutes ago, Michi said:

Hi, my Nauticam Trigger just supports mechanical shutter with my Sony A1 to trigger my strobes (Marelux, Ikelite and Inon) via optical signal/cable.

What triggers can send a signal when fired in non mechanical (electric) shutter mode of camera?

Do you mean electronic shutter? I've used OM1 + Turtle Smart 2 without any issues. In fact the only limiting factor was the fact that OM1 did not allow for speeds greater than 1/100 when using electronic shutter + strobe trigger. Camera limitation itself though.

Hi Michi,

I know nothing at all about underwater photography, but since I was bored I tried to test Google Gemini on your question.

Surely other members will step in with the right solution and corrections.

Do not shoot the piano player!

The bottleneck in your current setup is the Nauticam Mini Flash Trigger. That standard Nauticam trigger is a basic two pin device. It only connects to the center sync pin and the ground of the camera hotshoe.

The Sony A1 architecture requires a digital handshake via the Multi Interface shoe to activate the flash circuit when using the electronic shutter. A basic manual trigger does not provide this digital communication. Consequently, the A1 assumes no compatible flash is attached and disables flash sync in electronic shutter mode.

To fire your Marelux, Ikelite, and Inon strobes optically using the electronic shutter, you must replace the Nauticam trigger with a smart TTL converter. These devices communicate with the Sony MI shoe protocol, tricking the camera into recognizing a native flash.

Here are the two best options for your Nauticam housing.

Configuration A: UW Technics Optoelectronic TTL Converter 11075 HSS

• Advantages: Specifically designed for Nauticam Sony housings. Fully unlocks the A1 electronic shutter up to 1/200s and supports High Speed Sync up to 1/8000s for compatible strobes like your Marelux units.

• Disadvantages: Installation requires opening the electronics bulkhead inside the housing. It is a dedicated board rather than a simple hotshoe plug and play device.

• Optical quality: Flawless signal transmission with very bright LEDs that easily drive multiple optical cables.

• Practicality: Runs on two CR2032 batteries with an extremely low standby drain, lasting up to 65000 flashes.

• Cost: Approximately 495 USD.

• Difficulty of use: Easy once installed. Flash exposure compensation and rear curtain sync can be controlled directly from the Sony camera menu.

Configuration B: TRT Electronics s-Turtle Smart 3 for Sony

• Advantages: Highly reliable smart trigger that fully supports the A1 electronic shutter. It allows switching between TTL and Manual modes directly from the camera menu underwater.

• Disadvantages: Requires you to manage battery charging before dive trips.

• Optical quality: Excellent and consistent LED output.

• Practicality: Features a user replaceable battery rechargeable via USB type C. A smart button provides battery status via LED flashes.

• Cost: Approximately 400 USD.

• Difficulty of use: Very simple setup. The device comes in a standalone box and drops into the hotshoe, connecting to the existing Nauticam LED bulkheads.

Important Hardware and Settings Analysis

Having the right trigger is only part of the solution. Your mixed strobe setup requires careful configuration.

1. Strobe Compatibility: You are mixing Marelux, Ikelite, and Inon strobes. Inon and Marelux accept optical signals natively. Ikelite strobes require the Ikelite Fiber Optic Converter to translate the LED pulse into an electrical signal. Because these three brands interpret TTL quench signals differently, you must operate the new trigger in Manual mode. Mixing different brands in TTL will result in highly inconsistent exposures. Use the smart trigger solely to wake up the electronic shutter, and adjust your strobe power manually on the strobe bodies.

2. Sony A1 Settings: Even with a smart trigger, the A1 will refuse to fire the electronic shutter if configured incorrectly. You must apply these exact settings:

• Shutter Type: Electronic

• Flash Mode: Fill Flash

• Wireless Flash: Off

• Silent Mode: Off

Be highly aware of the Silent Mode. Sony frequently links Silent Mode to a complete deactivation of the flash circuit. You must shoot with the electronic shutter engaged but with Silent Mode turned off.

This configuration will eliminate mechanical shutter wear, completely remove shutter shock for macro photography, and allow you to shoot in total silence while maintaining perfect optical sync with your strobes.

4 hours ago, makar0n said:

Do you mean electronic shutter? I've used OM1 + Turtle Smart 2 without any issues. In fact the only limiting factor was the fact that OM1 did not allow for speeds greater than 1/100 when using electronic shutter + strobe trigger. Camera limitation itself though.

Yes, Electric shutter!

18 hours ago, Davide DB said:

Hi Michi,

I know nothing at all about underwater photography, but since I was bored I tried to test Google Gemini on your question.

Surely other members will step in with the right solution and corrections.

Do not shoot the piano player!

The bottleneck in your current setup is the Nauticam Mini Flash Trigger. That standard Nauticam trigger is a basic two pin device. It only connects to the center sync pin and the ground of the camera hotshoe.

The Sony A1 architecture requires a digital handshake via the Multi Interface shoe to activate the flash circuit when using the electronic shutter. A basic manual trigger does not provide this digital communication. Consequently, the A1 assumes no compatible flash is attached and disables flash sync in electronic shutter mode.

To fire your Marelux, Ikelite, and Inon strobes optically using the electronic shutter, you must replace the Nauticam trigger with a smart TTL converter. These devices communicate with the Sony MI shoe protocol, tricking the camera into recognizing a native flash.

Here are the two best options for your Nauticam housing.

Configuration A: UW Technics Optoelectronic TTL Converter 11075 HSS

• Advantages: Specifically designed for Nauticam Sony housings. Fully unlocks the A1 electronic shutter up to 1/200s and supports High Speed Sync up to 1/8000s for compatible strobes like your Marelux units.

• Disadvantages: Installation requires opening the electronics bulkhead inside the housing. It is a dedicated board rather than a simple hotshoe plug and play device.

• Optical quality: Flawless signal transmission with very bright LEDs that easily drive multiple optical cables.

• Practicality: Runs on two CR2032 batteries with an extremely low standby drain, lasting up to 65000 flashes.

• Cost: Approximately 495 USD.

• Difficulty of use: Easy once installed. Flash exposure compensation and rear curtain sync can be controlled directly from the Sony camera menu.

Configuration B: TRT Electronics s-Turtle Smart 3 for Sony

• Advantages: Highly reliable smart trigger that fully supports the A1 electronic shutter. It allows switching between TTL and Manual modes directly from the camera menu underwater.

• Disadvantages: Requires you to manage battery charging before dive trips.

• Optical quality: Excellent and consistent LED output.

• Practicality: Features a user replaceable battery rechargeable via USB type C. A smart button provides battery status via LED flashes.

• Cost: Approximately 400 USD.

• Difficulty of use: Very simple setup. The device comes in a standalone box and drops into the hotshoe, connecting to the existing Nauticam LED bulkheads.

Important Hardware and Settings Analysis

Having the right trigger is only part of the solution. Your mixed strobe setup requires careful configuration.

1. Strobe Compatibility: You are mixing Marelux, Ikelite, and Inon strobes. Inon and Marelux accept optical signals natively. Ikelite strobes require the Ikelite Fiber Optic Converter to translate the LED pulse into an electrical signal. Because these three brands interpret TTL quench signals differently, you must operate the new trigger in Manual mode. Mixing different brands in TTL will result in highly inconsistent exposures. Use the smart trigger solely to wake up the electronic shutter, and adjust your strobe power manually on the strobe bodies.

2. Sony A1 Settings: Even with a smart trigger, the A1 will refuse to fire the electronic shutter if configured incorrectly. You must apply these exact settings:

• Shutter Type: Electronic

• Flash Mode: Fill Flash

• Wireless Flash: Off

• Silent Mode: Off

Be highly aware of the Silent Mode. Sony frequently links Silent Mode to a complete deactivation of the flash circuit. You must shoot with the electronic shutter engaged but with Silent Mode turned off.

This configuration will eliminate mechanical shutter wear, completely remove shutter shock for macro photography, and allow you to shoot in total silence while maintaining perfect optical sync with your strobes.

Thx for your research! Does anyone have real life experiences regarding liability etc of those triggers??? I don’t need TTL…

Edited August 20Aug 20 by Michi

Hi Michi

I used a UWT on my Nikon system(s) for around 9-10 years. Flawless. It had Manual, TTL and HSS - the latter when paired with Retras. It was easy to install (two small screws), used 2x CR2032 batteries which seemed to live for ever and just sat there and did its job without complaint. I did about 1000 dives with it and never once a problem.

Tim

HI, @Michi ,

Yes, I have a Sony a1 in a Nauticam housing and use the UWT trigger. I do not use TTL. The durability and dependability have been flawless!

In fact, the main reason I chose the a1 over the a7rV at the time was the ability to use strobes with the electronic shutter at up to 1/400. My Inon Z-330s did support HSS, but at 1/400 I had a good control over lighting.

NOTE: I now use Backscatter HF-1s. They do have HSS and UWT will fire the strobes in HSS mode, it is not a true HSS. If you end up with HF-1s you are better off with their own trigger as that is the only way you can get true HSS and be able to control the output. Retras, on the other hand, do include true HSS with the UWT trigger.

Like TimG said, I find the 2x CR2032 batteries last many months and are super cheap to replace. I personally prefer these batteries over requiring to charge a rechargeable trigger. I also like that the trigger is mounted in the housing so that is one less piece to keep track of when assembling the rig.

Enjoy!

chip

Edited August 20Aug 20 by ChipBPhoto

22 hours ago, TimG said:

Hi Michi

I used a UWT on my Nikon system(s) for around 9-10 years. Flawless. It had Manual, TTL and HSS - the latter when paired with Retras. It was easy to install (two small screws), used 2x CR2032 batteries which seemed to live for ever and just sat there and did its job without complaint. I did about 1000 dives with it and never once a problem.

Tim

Hi Tim, thx! have you ever tried with electricic shutter to fire in serial mode? Can the trigger keep up with a certain speed? I want to Use my new Marelux Apollo with my Sony a1 in serial Mode.

18 hours ago, ChipBPhoto said:

HI, @Michi ,

Yes, I have a Sony a1 in a Nauticam housing and use the UWT trigger. I do not use TTL. The durability and dependability have been flawless!

In fact, the main reason I chose the a1 over the a7rV at the time was the ability to use strobes with the electronic shutter at up to 1/400. My Inon Z-330s did support HSS, but at 1/400 I had a good control over lighting.

NOTE: I now use Backscatter HF-1s. They do have HSS and UWT will fire the strobes in HSS mode, it is not a true HSS. If you end up with HF-1s you are better off with their own trigger as that is the only way you can get true HSS and be able to control the output. Retras, on the other hand, do include true HSS with the UWT trigger.

Like TimG said, I find the 2x CR2032 batteries last many months and are super cheap to replace. I personally prefer these batteries over requiring to charge a rechargeable trigger. I also like that the trigger is mounted in the housing so that is one less piece to keep track of when assembling the rig.

Enjoy!

chip

Hi Chip, thx! have you ever tried with electricic shutter to fire in serial mode? With the Backscatter strobe you have also a fast recycling one… Can the trigger / strobe keep up with a certain speed? I want to Use my new Marelux Apollo with my Sony a1 in serial Mode.

18 hours ago, ChipBPhoto said:

HI, @Michi ,

.… was the ability to use strobes with the electronic shutter at up to 1/400. .…

Can you really Shoot in electronic shutter up to 1/400? I think it’s Limited in Electric to 1/200 (without HSS)?! With mechanical shutter it’s up to 1/400 (and with my Ikelite ds161, inon z330 And Marelux Apollo III and Nauticam trigger even Limited to 1/320…)?!

Out of the curiosity - has anybody used GH7 with a silent/electronic shutter? Any ideas what is the max sync speed on this camera with the strobe trigger? As I do not seem to be able to find it anywhere.

3 hours ago, Michi said:

Hi Tim, thx! have you ever tried with electricic shutter to fire in serial mode? Can the trigger keep up with a certain speed? I want to Use my new Marelux Apollo with my Sony a1 in serial Mode.

Sorry, Michi, I can’t really help you there. I doubt though that the trigger would be outpaced by the ability of the strobes to recharge.

Pure manual triggers I believe rely upon the X-sync contacts within the shutter closing the circuit between the centre pin and the common edge contact, so to work they need the shutter to operate. E-Shutter needs the trigger to talk to the flash and establish communications so the sensor can trigger the flash. So a pure manual trigger doesn't tell the camera flash is even connected - this for example is how the Nauticam manual trigger can sync at 1/400 with the OM-1, the camera doesn't lock out the higher shutter speeds and the flash still fires regardless.

Electronic shutter needs to co-ordinate with the sensor reading to fire the flash at the right time to fully illuminate the frame - on most camaeras unless they have very fast readout this means the sync speed for electronic shutter is lower.

Out of interest why do you want to use e-shutter? Seems like it would be simpler to take advantage of the high mechanical sync speed in most circumstances?

4 hours ago, Michi said:

Can you really Shoot in electronic shutter up to 1/400? I think it’s Limited in Electric to 1/200 (without HSS)?! With mechanical shutter it’s up to 1/400 (and with my Ikelite ds161, inon z330 And Marelux Apollo III and Nauticam trigger even Limited to 1/320…)?!

Hi, @Michi - apologies, I mistyped and reversed them. (too early in the AM with too little caffeine)

Mechanical shutter is 1/400, if flash priority is set to auto or on, which I do.

Electronic shutter is 1/200, which was unique at that time as it was the only common FF camera I knew of that would even offer the electronic shutter sync.

My goal was to use the electronic shutter to keep the manual shutter count lower. In real world usage, I find better overall results with the manual shutter. While I mostly capture 1 frame at a time, I normally set the camera to continuous shooting mode M, typically to make ~3 frames in a burst.

Edited August 21Aug 21 by ChipBPhoto

8 hours ago, makar0n said:

Out of the curiosity - has anybody used GH7 with a silent/electronic shutter? Any ideas what is the max sync speed on this camera with the strobe trigger? As I do not seem to be able to find it anywhere.

I have a GH7, but since I shoot video I have no idea. If you tell me how to check, I can see if I can find out for you. That said, I only have a cheap flash that I bought for topside work, and I don't really know what it is capable of. If you want to send me a direct message, we can talk further.

9 hours ago, makar0n said:

Out of the curiosity - has anybody used GH7 with a silent/electronic shutter? Any ideas what is the max sync speed on this camera with the strobe trigger? As I do not seem to be able to find it anywhere.

it doesn't work.

Flash is completely disabled with electronic shutter:

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DC-GH7/html/DC-GH7_DVQP3109_eng/0058.html

And here:

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DC-GH7/html/DC-GH7_DVQP3109_eng/0168.html#00007

The flash does not fire when using the following functions:

– Video recording

– [ELEC.]/[Silent Mode]

– High Resolution mode

– [Filter Settings]

The documentation clearly states that the flash will not fire when the shutter type is set to Electronic, or when Silent Mode (which forces the use of the electronic shutter) is turned on.

This is a standard firmware block implemented by Panasonic across their camera bodies with non-stacked sensors. It is designed to prevent users from capturing partially illuminated frames, which happens because the electronic readout speed of the sensor cannot synchronize with the brief duration of a strobe flash.

On 8/21/2026 at 4:31 PM, Chris Ross said:

...

Out of interest why do you want to use e-shutter? Seems like it would be simpler to take advantage of the high mechanical sync speed in most circumstances?

1. Thx for your comment and explanation!

2. About your question: The Electronic is 30 fps. Strobe should be 20 fps. Mechanical is 10 fps.

On 8/21/2026 at 3:58 PM, TimG said:

Sorry, Michi, I can’t really help you there. I doubt though that the trigger would be outpaced by the ability of the strobes to recharge.

Thx - I think the same!

On 8/21/2026 at 5:36 PM, ChipBPhoto said:

Hi, @Michi - apologies, I mistyped and reversed them. (too early in the AM with too little caffeine)

Mechanical shutter is 1/400, if flash priority is set to auto or on, which I do.

Electronic shutter is 1/200, which was unique at that time as it was the only common FF camera I knew of that would even offer the electronic shutter sync.

My goal was to use the electronic shutter to keep the manual shutter count lower. In real world usage, I find better overall results with the manual shutter. While I mostly capture 1 frame at a time, I normally set the camera to continuous shooting mode M, typically to make ~3 frames in a burst.

Thx for explaining!!!