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Sea and Sea YSD130R strobe? Any experience?
Read your report here. Ouch. Alor should be great then, hopefully. November is shoulder and it’s (normally) getting wetter and more mosquitoes. Lycka till! Alor September 2025
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Best Sony Rectilinear Wide-Angle Lens for Underwater Shark Photography?
What Nikon-lens is recommended for the 135D? The extra 5 degrees makes it an interesting alternative inmo. Does it need a converter on a Nauticam N120 ports? Cheers.
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Best Sony Rectilinear Wide-Angle Lens for Underwater Shark Photography?
Not a SONY-shooter but having used and use many similar/identical solutions in Nikon-flavor, I'd agree with some of the previous posters that Nauticam water contact optics are close to optimal for many shark situations, short of friendly whale sharks, baited tigers. They do produce some barrel distortion, more pronounced at the wide end, but do offer full zoom through and 130-70 degrees of FoV. A 14-30 will give 114-72 degrees on a full frame and struggle to produce overall sharpness even behind a large dome. Wide end 130 degrees FoV with WWL-C
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Field of View Comparison Between Rectilinear & Fisheye Wide Angle Lenses
Golden rule: get as close as you possibly can. Then get a little closer. So depending on where and what you shoot, using the set-up that can give you as much FoV as possible suitable for the situation will generally (I’d dare to say always) yield better results. Water is one helluva degrading medium to photograph in. 130 degrees dFoV Nauticam WWLC
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Field of View Comparison Between Rectilinear & Fisheye Wide Angle Lenses
They have different looks and as, I assume, you are on some sort of cropped sensor system (9mm rectilinear) rectilinear is less problematic than on a FF sensor inme. Fisheyes have a more distorted (barrel) look and an extreme Field of View, up to 180 degrees coverage. It means you can come very close to big animals and frame large reef views with less water between the lens and your "subject". The ultrawide rectilinear lenses typically produce 100-110 degrees coverage and a "flatter" image. Still teally good for larger animals and reef views. Your frame will be filled from a little further away than the extreme fisheye (sometimes a good thing)--so more water in between lens and subject if it's something big. Inme the ulrawide rectilinear lenses, 14 mm on FF and wider, are very difficult to achieve good and even sharpness with. They need very large domes. This is different with cropped sensors, where just like the sensor, everything is smaller. I had acceptable results with a 10-20 zoom on Nikon DX. 180 degrees FoV with fisheye 10 mm rectilinear DX crop sensor, roughly 110 degrees FoV
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Moving from Sony 16-35 + 180mm dome to 28-60 + WWL-1B — experiences?
Full disclosure. Haven't used the Sony system, but shoot full frame Nikon. Should be the "same" though. It will be much better optically inme than any wide rectilinear that comes close to its FoV behind a domeport on full frame. It is very easy to install/remove a wwl under water. Nothing I recommend, but I have even held the wwl in hand and shot with the flat port on occasion, get some kind of holder if you see yourself in that situation often. Good luck!
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Canon 8-15 - teleconverter
Thanks for your efforts Wolfgang. Interesting read! You can see that there are some degradation made by the TC:s to the fisheye zoom, so they have a little worse starting point than a "clean" lens. But very little it looks like. And then you'd be putting everything behind a dome (be it glass, acrylic or a correction port) and then we go into the water which seldom is gin clear (a FE will get you a little closer and that inme will have a greater effect on sharpness and contrast than a "perfect" lens that is narrower). Cheers.
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Underwater photographer from south of Sweden
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Sea and Sea YSD130R strobe? Any experience?
Saw that yeah, and not really the real world, no 🙂 In that test it looked like the Sea & Sea was surprisingly weak. The old, smaller Inon 330:s with 4xAA:s looked brighter 🤔
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Sea and Sea YSD130R strobe? Any experience?
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Is the wwl-c good for snorkeling?
WACP-C with the z24-50 will work better for snorkeling—same coverage and zoom through, but dry mount—no burp. More expensive but not ridiculous like the Nautican Fisheye lens.
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Lens choice / other tips for Maldives live aboard
For the Maldives, the 70-130 degree WACP is optimal in most places. As you experienced, reef sharks are plentiful but do not get close enough… it is what it is. So a either crop or frame tighter. The 180 degree inmo would be for the whalesharks (which you likely won’t encounter in Rasdoo, but perhaps in S Ari —with a lot of snorkelers) and perhaps manta rays. Reef wiews… not that impressive. Good luck in the Maldives! Maldives Shark-TV wwl @130 degrres Dfov Maldives mantas 180 degree FE
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Lens choice / other tips for Maldives live aboard
Yep, carry on weight won’t allow anything complete but some sort of compact p&s system. So for any a little more serious system, stuff has to be checked. Good luck with your trip. The wwl (wacp) is the right choice for the Maldives inmo. Are you on a liveaboard?
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things I have found out as a novice
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Lens choice / other tips for Maldives live aboard
Little late for the OP. Anyways I was in the neighborhood about the same time, went on the Voyager in March (Sharktastic route) and exclusively used a Nauticam WWL-C for a fullframe Nikon camera. That was a good alternative, a little less wide than the Tokina 10-17 on APS-C but full zoom through with a 24-50 lens.