waso

May I ask how strong the lock is? The Saga adapter also has a lock, but it's too weak to hold, for example, the SMC1/SMC2 in a vertical position underwater.

I can rule out a hard impact, as I noticed this immediately after purchase, even before the first dive. To be honest, I can't imagine how I could check this with a bubble level. I'll probably measure the dimensions of the lens hood, but I don't expect to find anything conclusive. However, if all the other owners here in the forum report that they haven't been able to resolve the issue, I'll contact the dealer. The camera has IBIS, but I turned it off because it behaves strangely in combination with the Fisheye and Commlite adapter. So that can't be the cause.

Thanks for your reply! Does the Nauticam triple flip have dedicated, fixed(!) 'detents' for each flip that hold the flips in position? The Saga has detents, but they are far too soft and therefore can no longer hold the weight beyond a certain tilt.

I'm using the Nauticam 140mm FE dome with the Canon FE 8-15/4 in combination with the two RF extenders and I've noticed that when zooming out, the lower right corner of the dome's lens hood is always the first part of the image to appear. There's an inaccuracy and I don't know the cause. It could be due to the lens hood's manufacturing, or perhaps the camera's position in the housing isn't perfectly precise—or a combination of both. Has anyone else noticed this? It's not a major issue, but it does reduce the FOV somewhat.

Hello, I own a Saga M67 triple flip adapter, which is very good in principle. Unfortunately, it has a design flaw: at a vertical tilt of approximately 45°, it can't support the weight of heavier close-up lenses, causing them to flip forward. This can have serious consequences, as the lenses can get scratched because they collide with each other. Besides, there are rare situations where you actually want to shoot vertically. Does anyone know of another manufacturer of triple flip adapters that doesn't have this problem?

I used the Z-220 a long time ago (from 2008 to around 2010) and back then it was a good strobe for the price. However, what drove me to sell it after about three years was the fact that it was virtually impossible to snoot with the strobe because the focus light and flash tube weren't on the same optical axis. For me(!) that would always be one of the main reasons for buying a strobe – along with, of course, a few other features.

I don't know if anyone has to be 'serious', but back-button focus has made photography easier for me for many years, both above and below water.

Also without(!) the removable, rotating aperture dial?

Hi Dave, thank you so much! Does the protective bumper affect the light beam in any way?

I've only recently acquired the MFO-3 and haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but the unprotected front lens is a concern for me too. If I remember correctly, @Dave_Hicks had a 3D-printed front lens protection for the predecessor, but I haven't seen anywhere whether it also fits the version 3. If anyone sees an effective front lens protection online, please post it here!

TTL works amost perfect on my Canon R5 and HF-1 with e-TURTLE 3 SMART TTL trigger for Canon MILC systems.

Were you able to take a picture of it?

Above and under water.

That would of course be another option, but it would take me a little more time to switch quickly. I'll probably start by training my little finger.😁

And how do you handle that in 'non-exclusive' situations? 😁 Have you ever assigned Eye AF to a specific button? It would be possible to assign it to the AF-On lever, but then you lose the option for regular servo AF, which isn't really an option for me. It's a shame, Canon doesn't allow more customizable button assignments on the R5 – it's improved on the R5 Mark II, though still not perfect. And yes, I've been using backbutton focus for about 15 years now.