waso

Thanks a lot for your help, Dave!

Hi Dave, I was just about to send you a PM about this, but I assume your inbox is full. So here are my questions: Since I don't have a 3D printer myself, I'd like to have a friend print the reduction rings and the base for the HF-1 backscatter that you designed. He's now asking which material to use. You wrote that it should only be printed in PETG. Is that correct? There's also PETG CF, which is supposedly even more temperature-resistant. By the way: I think it's great that you share your designs! They're very practical and money saving. Best regards, Wahrmut

Do you see a difference after editing the image in Lightroom and then converting it to sRGB? Or do you make a proof in Lightroom (--> sRGB)? Lightroom always develops in Pro Photo RGB, which is a much larger color space than Adobe RGB. Blue water generally looks somewhat "sick" in sRGB because important cyan components are missing - assuming a wide gamut display is used. Of your images, I find the first one a lot of and the third one a bit too magenta-heavy; the others look relatively 'realistic' - without knowing the exact situation. DCI-P3 also lacks a potentially important cyan range compared to Adobe RGB, but your monitors can only display 95% of that range anyway, and probably a maximum of 90% of Adobe RGB. My starting point for image development in Lightroom is always the camera's default profile - okay, it works better sometimes and worse at other times. Personally, I find the HSL sliders in Lightroom in combination with the white balance tool extremely powerful and I don't feel like I'm missing anything when I want to influence the color of the blue water. However, after converting from Adobe RGB to sRGB, I regularly feel like throwing up. No, it's exactly the other way around: a strobe with 4800K is significantly warmer than one with 6500K - I know it's confusing. May I ask if the image was uploaded in Adobe RGB? To me, it doesn't look like sRGB.

Like Thales said: FE = F (ish) E (ye)

And for me, who very frequently uses an extender in combination with the 8-15/4, the new FE is actually not an option.

Sold!!!

I'm selling a Retra LSD snoot with the matching adapter for Seacam 150D strobes. As the original owner, I used the snoot for years and it always worked perfectly (what could possibly go wrong with it?). It has a few minor signs of wear and the front lens has a couple of tiny scratches, but these don't affect the light transmission in any way. The buyer will also receive 6 different mask sets for various diameters and shapes of the light exit opening, as well as a spare parts kit, 3 additional diffuser discs, and the original silicone lubricant. Insured shipping from Germany is possible upon reimbursement of costs. 220,-€ As this is a private sale, the item is sold without any warranty or guarantee. Liability for damages resulting from injury to health, body, or life, and for gross negligence and/or willful misconduct on my part as the seller, remains unaffected.

Thanks, very helpful! I think I'll go with the XTARs, since they're definitely recommended by Backscatter and are significantly cheaper than the NiteCores. And whether the NL2160HP actually has 6000 mAh and thus a significant advantage over the XTAR, I can't even verify.

My question concerns the principle of how many amperes the HF-1 requires at a minimum. Backscatter surely provides specifications for this, which I would like to know. There are plenty of other batteries with the same capacity of at least 5000mAh on the market.

Thanks, good ton know! Very helpful, thanks! Because of the strange answer, I asked again how many amps the batteries for the HF-1 must have at a minimum, but I haven't received an answer yet.

I also find this statement somewhat strange and will decide either for the (very expensive) Nitecore or the (significantly cheaper) XTAR anyway.

I posted 2 links -the first led to the Backscatter page and the second showed the other battery model with only 10A. But: Backscatter claims that the amperage doesn't matter (see my quote in my last post): 'The batteries we sell have been tested and work properly with our lights. The NiteCore and the Xtar work fine the different amps have no real issue with the lights.' However, I also find the word 'lights' somewhat strangely chosen in this context.

Just to mention it... Backscatter replied to me with the following: 'The batteries we sell have been tested and work properly with our lights. The NiteCore and the Xtar work fine the different amps have no real issue with the lights.'

Thanks! May I ask, if you're using the NL2160HP with 20A, or the NL2160 with 8A? Thanks for the Link! May I ask, which strobes you are using this batteries in? This appears to be the same battery I linked to in my first post: https://www.backscatter.com/Xtar-Dual-21700-5000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-Ion-Batteries However, on the site you linked, they cost only a fraction of the price compared to buying directly from Backscatter. Interestingly, XTAR offers a slightly more expensive version with 6000mAh, but only with 10A: https://www.akkuteile.de/en/lithium-ionen-battery/protected/size-21700/xtar-21700-5000mah-3-6v-3-7v-li-ion-battery-electronically-protected_100839_3404 So if someone is successfully using the Nitecore version NL2160 with 8A in the HF-1, this version would probably also work. I'm still waiting for Backscatter to answer my questions... Btw: I just received information from a Nitecore employee that the model NL2160HPI is only suitable for specific Nitecore flashlight models. So, don't buy it for underwater strobes!

Because the batteries will be used in the HF-1, I was writing an email to Backscatter for a recommendation. Hope to get their answer soon. Someone here on the forum has mentioned that only the Nitecore work with the HF-1 but this was some time ago and I can't find it back. This has certainly changed by now, otherwise Backscatter wouldn't sell any other batteries for the HF-1. Indeed, very interesting.