ACHiPo

Another vote for Prescription Dive Masks.

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Pics?

That’s what I’m currently using. Just wondered if making the HF-1 more neutral on its own might make it easier to use.

@waso thanks this is kinda what I had in mind.

Bummer! Sorry for your loss!

Dave, Thanks. The balance on my whole rig is fine, but I would like to leave my clamps a little looser to more easily reposition them and have them stay. My thought is that if I could make the strobes a little more neutral I could could reduce the clamping force. I looked at the HF-1s today and am rethinking--instead of foam all the way around which might make positioning the strobe close to the port, maybe a block of foam bolted to the HF-1 using the mounting screws for the ball mount? I need to do some calculations, but I'm thinking 3/4" thick by 3" x 6" should be close to a 1/2 pound positive. Evan

I saw a post that mentioned how negatively buoyant the HF-1 strobes are in the water, and how tight clamps need to be to secure them. While this is something that hasn’t bugged me too much, it did make me wonder if there is some way to wrap the body of the HF-1s with rigid float material to make it more neutral? I think I saw something from Marelux or Mares that used floats and a strap for dome ports or strobes, but I can’t find it now. Has anyone tried something like this? Is it a dumb idea (I know the heat sinks need to be exposed, but it seems like there’s still space to strap on ~ 0.5 lb of positive float material)? Thanks, Evan

Wow. Thank you for posting this!

It seems like this could be a great thing for blackwater on a 30mm M43?

Thanks!

Dave, These look great! Thank you! Any concern about blocking the heatsinks with the bumpers? I can’t see whether they would impede water access to any of the cooling fins. Evan

Late to the discussion, but I find it interesting as I prepare for my first muck trip to Lembeh in July. I had good results in Roatan with static subjects using my M43 60mm macro plus an Inon 165 (+6 diopter), and even with a borrowed +15 diopter. Based on getting decent Costasiella sp. pics in Roatan with +15 I think I want to add more magnification than the +6. My original thought was just to add a ~+10 so I would have +6, +10, and+16 by mixing/matching. I’ve gotten advice that I’d be better off with a Nauticam CMC-1 to use instead of the Inon +6 and not try to stack. Of course I’ve also gotten advice that I should get an MFO-3! (It’s only money!🤯) In addition to the 60mm I am adding a 30mm OM and 45 mm P/L to my kit to experiment with. (The 30 is primarily for blackwater and the 45 is based on @bvanant ’s advice that it is a great all-rounder macro lens. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Evan

That’s too bad.

I was at CoCoView for 15 days of diving. Loved it! It was just what I was looking for--decent accommodations, good (not great) food, and all the diving I wanted. Coupled with some world-class photography instruction by Mickey Charteris, and I couldn't be happier. The only time I saw a red light was when my finger tip was a bit damp and I inadvertently touched the moisture sensor when I was prepping the housing. A quick dry with a towel and microfiber, power cycling the housing, and all was good. The moisture sensor is very sensitive to moisture. Could you be introducing a water droplet during opening the case or getting the camera ready?