Dave_Hicks

The WWL ports are pretty big compared to the MWL. Typically you put a mount on your camera arm if you want to remove the WWL during a dive.

Get some Sugru

I saw one where the wires inside the hotshoe were frayed creating a short. Open the hotshoe connector to inspect. First look for loose solder connections on the circuit board, hotshoe wire bundle, and battery.

I put a lite lanyard on my WWL-C. The original rubber grip got cut on rocks and fell off. I printed a replacement that has lanyard loops on it. Some knotted fishing fishing line and a micro clip to the handle ensure it does drop if i fumble the burb. 😧 https://makerworld.com/models/637896

Let's see some photos of your additions!

I use the WWL-C and occasionally fisheye up there. I tend to shoot macro for the 3rd dive of the day when the light is fading. The visibility is what it is, sometimes excellent occasionally less so. You can control the particulate with careful lighting in an conditions.

I have a buddy that likes to use some exotic manual focus lenses from LensBaby. I think 56mm and 24mm. He used them with out a focus ring for a while, but then i got a 3d printer and made a few zoom rings for myself. Pretty soon i was able to make focus rings for his lenses. There are none made or sold for these lenses, so it's the only way to go.

I found that with the Arm floats stix foam is hard to beat. The dry weight vs buoyancy ratio of jumbo stix is superior. Its just cleaner and more durable. Port floats work a bit more in favor of printing as you can get really snug, clean, and maximize volume.

I should go into business. I could sell a float collar for $50 and still make a $40 profit. Turns out my hourly rate is $0/hour since I retired. Obsolete and unemployable!

The port floats are big jobs, about 12 hours prints and use 1/3 of a KG spool. But once tested out, they are pretty easy to reproduce. So far, I just have designs for the 3 macro port configs I listed. I don't have a WWL-1 to measure.

I've been experimenting with 3D printed buoyancy solutions for a while now. I've created a few iterations of a form fitting collar that snuggly fit over a 105mm macro port and add about 250 to 350 grams of buoyancy. It's a lot cleaner looking than a foam belt too. My first versions relied on painting with epoxy resin to seal it, but I've since been able to make versions without added sealants that stay watertight to 100feet over multiple dives. I want to keep iterating to reduce the dry weight and wall thickness a bit more before sharing. I've made prototypes for the Port60, Port87, and Port60+20mm extension. These have been especially useful to counter the added front weighting of a Dual Flip adapter with a couple of diopters attached. It should be very possible to design one of these for the WWL-1. I have a WWL-C, but it includes a built-in aluminum buoyancy collar.

My HF-1 beam restrictors, which can sit on top of a diffuser : 60mm With 38mm option: 3D print shared at: https://makerworld.com/models/865305

Please include photos, not links.

It doesn't look like the hood is removable, which would be a problem in a dome port. And it's still rectilinear not fisheye. Perhaps it could be made to work, but I'm guessing it would need a larger dome port such as the 8.5".

The Backscatter HF-1 strobes are great, but it's also nice to have a spare strobe or two. I'd hang on to your Inons, or at least one of them. I use the Nauticam Nikon manual trigger. I don't need TTL. The nice thing about this trigger is that it's fast and the battery lasts basically forever. I change them each January and reuse them in the vacuum circuit. (which chews through batteries)