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Christian K

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  1. So you had the same distance to the mat? The @28 behind wwl should give a bit more FoV than 16 recti behind a dome. Looks almost the other way around.
  2. Have only used the wwl-c (nikon z24-50) but can say it is seem a little more prone to produce ugly flares than a lens behind a dome inme. Not a big issue as it can be mitigated by small angle adjustments when you’re facing the sun. Don’t know about the wacp or if it is a wwl (c) specific challenge. Sharpness should be pretty close, with an edge to the wacp, everything else being equal. Allegedly extremely tough to tell the difference in real world images though. @24 - 107 horizontal degrees and 130 diagonal
  3. In my view (finder), def a fisheye for whales, whale sharks, manta rays and friendly sharks (baited), reef-scapes, big aggregations of fish and perhaps wrecks. A WACP / WWL for manta rays and baited + chance encounters with sharks, reef-scapes and fish aggregations of fish / schools. Others might do it different. Rectilinear 16 mm, 105 degrees FoV. A little bit more wouldn't have hurt.
  4. Agree somewhat. Often numbers don't tell the whole story. Anyways, 11 degrees (107 on wwl/wacp) difference horizontally makes for quite some difference in many UW shooting situations inme and inmo. The "square" you have available to frame your image from a desired distance (less than 1.5 metres, preferably less) is quite a bit larger with a wacp/wwl, compared to a 16 mm rectilinear lens. Shooting style and preferences then vary of course and different shooters want different solutions. The WWL and WACP (full disclosure –– have not used WACP, so merely a qualified guess) have some mild barrel distortion, but not as much as a full-blown FE. Kind of like the Tokina on DX @ 16-17, perhaps a little less. Fisheye 180 degrees, trying to make use of the diagonal FoV.
  5. We’re shooting in water. So ask yourself how much closer you can be to a subject / something you want to shoot with 25 extra degrees of FoV and what that does to IQ.
  6. The FoV is quite different on those two options, a WACP (or WWL) and a 16-35 behind a dome. The former will give you 130 degrees on the wide end, a 16 will give you around 105 on a FF sensor. 130 degrees
  7. With a large dome you can do over unders. But inme wide rectlinear lenses are not as good as Naticam wet optics for corner to corner sharpness. You need a fisheye for that. The wwls are quick and easy to burp, and inme often not even needed, the wacp and dome has the advantage of being ready immediately. In my short but sweet experience with WWL:s … a little sensitive to creating ugly (not cool looking ones) flares when you shoot against the sun. Have never experienced that delicacy with domes. Maybe a wwl-c specific?
  8. Ahh, right .. recall now it has a fixed port system. So it can't fit the z105 f2 which paired with a MFO3 is a pretty versatile combo, covering a lot of macro needs. Have no experience with the CMC or how good/bad it is. I'd say the Nauticam route is nice for a lot of WA needs, but perhaps not for macro in the case of Nikon Z50II.
  9. For wide, the wwl-c is awesome. Please note that the 13-14 mm equivalent Chris mentions is on a fullframe camera. On your DX it is quite a bit wider than your 12-24, which equals a 18-36. 10-17 FE also a very solid option, shot it many years, and has the advantage of being able to do splits with a large enough dome (not as travel friendly as the wwl-c). Others can chime in on the Nauticam macro, but you could stick to a classic macrolens and port and shoot wide with the wwl-c and compact zoom IIRC. Not sure what port system the NAZA50ii uses?
  10. I haven’t done any tests since I discovered it, but glad to hear. And my hunch is it won’t have any impact as it will be wet.
  11. Have these blotches on my 75 dive old Nauticam port, and I have always meticulously kept and rinsed it in fresh water after every dive. I learned from Nauticam that I need to rinse it with deionized water to be sure ... A new one for me. I guess if you don’t have that at hand (!) keep it wet most of time and when you dry it—use a clean soft towel to wipe it off and make sure it’s absolutely dry.
  12. Sobering report. I was on the Emperor Voyager mid March. That smoke, three breaths and you’re passed out. Five and you’re pretty much dead.
  13. Welcome, me to recently back from the Maldives.
  14. 55 going on 56. Been scuba diving since 1985 and photographing UW since 1999.
  15. I just try keeping it wet all the time, salt or fresh water doesn’t matter, until it eventually has to open for battery change. Has worked for me.

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