Michi

Thx! Cloth is an interesting idea! I will give it a try…

Thx a lot. I really appreciate the help and thoughts from everyone!!! Here We go with the first four photos from the wide angle / fisheye Workshop - after retutning yesterday ( I will post a few more in the other Forum) with 8-15 with 2xTC …

Thx for the advice! Yes, now like before… rotate without any scratching Sound etc. I do a lot of muck and The sand and salt creeps in everywhere! I am also in a lot of destinations where I can not let it soak… : Small fishing boats / villages and no 24/7 water Infrastructure with Water supply… amazing diving but no rinse tanks! And after those Trips I let it soak for several days and try to really take good care with warm Water and cleaning… but in our case before with This incident: I was having it after every dive day for 10 min in a tank in around 30 cm depth… very very Strange… I will send the 35.5 to a Service inspection and let everyone know what they say because this can cause a really big Drama for every user … I can Imagine people can’t Pack properly for flights etc when not able to Open… Next Post will be some photos after all negative at least some positive…

Thx for the advice! So you just rotate them a bit in direction of the line (away from Circle) and try to unlock again?

I was able to fix the problem overnight with WD-40— I was able to get the yellow marked screws out, open the lock mechanism! I had to shake the whole case, and then it finally popped open by rotating at the same time!!! As you can see in the second picture, there’s no other way to access it. I’ll make sure to always have the right Allen key and some oil on hand from now on. The Nauticam set of keys doesn’t quite fit the N100 on the N120. Better to get something that works 100 percent! This issue was really the worst problem with a whole set up which affected everything… Best regards and thanks to everyone for the help :-))

Thx. But I am at the end of the world and even WD40 is luxury but I will give it a try!

For me, authenticity is important. Excessive editing, including the use of AI, should not be allowed.

Hi, thx so far ! It’s: Sony A1 plus Sony 2xTC plus Metabones plus 8-15 canon. Nauticam housing, 30mm n100 extension plus 35.5 n120/n100 adapter plus 30mm n120 extension. I try WD40 to help the Allen key. My camera shop told me to try warm water… Every other recommendation is highly appreciated!

Hi, Attached you find a video Which shows that I can not open the 35.5 n120 to n100 adapter Anymore. The problem is, I can’t get the cam / Lens out if I cannot open this because it’s not going over n100! it’s stuck! Do you have any trick? Also, the screws with the Allan key were kind of stuck, and I can’t open from outside… Camera and Lens are trapped inside :-/ It’s the special 8-15mm with 2x TC combo - zoom ring / big lens blocking from release… First time something like this happened… greetings Michael 002dbac3-dc9e-4460-a457-6dd3c82d33b7.mov

Thx - I think the same! Thx for explaining!!!

Thx for your comment and explanation! About your question: The Electronic is 30 fps. Strobe should be 20 fps. Mechanical is 10 fps.

Can you really Shoot in electronic shutter up to 1/400? I think it’s Limited in Electric to 1/200 (without HSS)?! With mechanical shutter it’s up to 1/400 (and with my Ikelite ds161, inon z330 And Marelux Apollo III and Nauticam trigger even Limited to 1/320…)?!

Hi Chip, thx! have you ever tried with electricic shutter to fire in serial mode? With the Backscatter strobe you have also a fast recycling one… Can the trigger / strobe keep up with a certain speed? I want to Use my new Marelux Apollo with my Sony a1 in serial Mode.

Hi Tim, thx! have you ever tried with electricic shutter to fire in serial mode? Can the trigger keep up with a certain speed? I want to Use my new Marelux Apollo with my Sony a1 in serial Mode.

Thx for your research! Does anyone have real life experiences regarding liability etc of those triggers??? I don’t need TTL…

Yes, Electric shutter!

Hi, my Nauticam Trigger just supports mechanical shutter with my Sony A1 to trigger my strobes (Marelux, Ikelite and Inon) via optical signal/cable. What triggers can send a signal when fired in non mechanical (electric) shutter mode of camera?

Hi Markus, thx a lot! That´s very helpful! Greetings

Regarding the forgotten O-rings, here's the anecdote: I was in a camper van at a perfect spot for unloading my camera and diving gear (without carrying for miles), but not exactly a perfect spot for the police. Consequently, there was maximum pressure to assemble all the equipment, including the sweltering heat of around 45° Celsius inside the camper. In Addition, there were the police, my wife, and kid, who were asking every two minutes when I'd finally be finished, when the car could be moved, and when the family could finally get to the sea… Yes, in that situation, something like that happened, something that hadn't happened in about 1500 dives before and about 700 dives since. I've even seen supposedly waterproof battery compartments that were clearly broken when they turned out not to be. With Sea & Sea and inon, I can say from my own experience (also with other people's equipment) that after water flooding and cleaning all was fine... the point is that you can buy double AA batteries anywhere and anytime (and there have also been cases here in the forum where too many batteries were taken at the airport and it wasn't possible to buy replacements at the arrival point)! I am Open with Brands and not a Fan boy. More power and faster recycling time is always nice but comes with a price… but keep also in mind: with bigger strobes for example carrying and cfwa can be more challenging…

I am an owner of 4 x z330… Recently on of my little kids turned on both of my strobes. Both empty... I realized at the dive spot when I wanted to take my test photo… I was able to buy in a tiny tiny shop (doesn’t deserve the name) in front of an amazing dive side 8 double AA batteries… that safed my day and made even a dive mag article with nice photos possible! Another story: once in Australia I was super stressed before a dive and forgot both my o-rings in both strobes… all batteries broken. Cleaned with WD40 and replaced accus fast and able to continue working for the Whole trip. I can trigger with optic cables and electrical… that safed me many trips with issues with broken cables/triggers/connectors… I am a big fan of Inon (even while owning several Ikelite strobes) and for traveling and in remote places it’s a good choice because so reliable, compact, lightweight and flexible wit AAs… I am now about to buy The Marelux Apollo because of its recycling time and speed but have no plans to sell my Inons… I think each strobe has its pros and cons…

Hi Markus, what’s the exact product name / manufacturer for your ceroxyd? Where do you find it? Greetings and thx Michi

Thx a lot for this link and your correction!!!

Thx! It seems than to be an alternative to the nauticam fcp?! If my calculations are right the setup 8-15 plus 2 tc should be zoomed all the way to 15mm be a 50mm equivalent lens?!

Thx a lot! Vignetting should be only between 8-11,2 correct?

Hello, thanks for the useful Feedback to @Wolfgang @Adventurer @jjmochi . Unfortunately I have the Sigma mc-11 and an Old Version of metabones nex to ef - my 1.4 tc doesn’t fit (like written in here before - the tc is too big and hole of Adapter to small but now you know mc-11 doesn’t fit as well… before I Jump In buying a new metabones Adapter: do you know if with the tc you can still zoom to have a wider field of view (like 180 degree field on the normal widest end 15mm without TC)? It would be critical for me to have a big coverage and a bit Zoom would be amazing)…Thx in Advance