Grantmac

Another option other members have been happy with is the Howshot 140mm, about half the price of Nauticam.

I have the n100 to n120, I just wasn't sure if it would be too much extension by the time you add the n120 to Marelux adapter

There will be an N100 adapter eventually?

Anything threaded gets attention daily. Ports stay on until changed. Main oring gets inspected and cleaned perhaps monthly unless looking sandy.

You might look at the wireless protocol used by Halcyon for their new CCR controllers. They seem to have both range and bandwidth. Likely proprietary and expensive however.

At the bottom: https://bluerobotics.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/05/WTE-DATASHEET-RevC.5-MAY2026.pdf

Depends on the situation. With a fair amount of ambient light I use live view. If it's dark I use the other mode (Sony shooter).

Keep in mind the live view will only show the background exposure unless you are using video lights.

Fair enough. It seems to me that a port which allows you to use an easily available, fairly cheap and durable dome which is user replaceable would be pretty neat. I might just need to order one and see what would be involved.

Any interest in printing a port to accept the BluROV acrylic domes? They have a 130mm which seems like it could be suitable for a fisheye.

Welcome from just across the water in BC

Welcome!

I shot this sequence in pretty poor visibility today: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZ0UlX9HUZA/?igsh=MWo1bXE2cXkzY3B4 The shorter FL is a really benefit in lower visibility and seems to be more versatile than the 90mm Sony. I'm now looking for a port that matches it better. Which I think would be the N120 Port 41 plus the N100-N120 adapter (which I have).

The Canon 8-15 adapts extremely well to MFT. Honestly I sometimes question why I didn't hold onto my Olympus and adapt that lens rather than going Sony FF.

That looks awesome

MkIV and V are identical electronics, the MkV is just built better. It's the version I have.

Good news is those z330 are still a fine strobe and any camera from the last 5 years is going to be great.

I use a 10 second time out with the A7riii to lower use, plus C3 to swap to back screen.

I was NOT able to get Advance mode to function well, lots of ficus breathing even with good contrast and light. Green mode worked better but seemed to be slow to close the aperture and fire the shot. Updated the adapter firmware and HUGE difference. Advanced mode now works far better, maybe a bit better in Green mode. I'll be looking to 3D print a zoom gear since I can now use DMF with Advanced mode.

I have a significant divot in my Sea&Sea 12mm from a shore exit because I couldn't get the neoprene "bikini" cover on. I've been trying to figure out a better design since. I believe Dave Hicks has 3D printed designs in TPU.

On Sony a good combo seems to be: 140mm dome Canon 8-15 Sony 2.0 TC My current wide angle setup is the mechanical Nikonos 15 or Sea&Sea 12mm and nothing is lighter or more compact. However doing CFWA is a challenge with them and I intend on going the route above at some point as a general traveling setup. Perhaps not as perfect as the RS or WACP-C but significantly cheaper and a touch more versatile.

I've been experimenting with the Canon 60mm on Sony FF via Metabones adapter. IQ seems quite good and the closer FL is a real benefit in the poor visibility we are currently experiencing. I still need to get a port which sits closer to the lens which would make for an even more compact set-up to get into some tighter spots.

If you are going Nauticam then the Metabones/Canon 8-15 and 2x TC is an option.

This is so much the truth. Between the camera manufacturers moving things by 1mm and the housing manufacturers not doing conversions it's enough to make you pull your hair out (what is left of it).

Welcome! Your first question is likely going to be how to trigger strobes and also which strobes to trigger!