I dive in BC where we have both inconsistent visibility and also a very wide variety of subjects on any given dive (Nudibranches to GPOs to Sealions). I also use a DPV and do technical diving which makes dealing with a bulky system with large strobe arms, wet lenses etc a bigger challenge. I enjoy the process of making pictures with something that offers more control than a compact/GoPro but that comes with compromises in terms of overall system size.

My question is how do you build the system you take on every dive, especially the ones where you don't know exactly what you're going to find (if anything)?

Edited August 27Aug 27 by Grantmac

This is when the WWL setups excel. They are pretty compact and can shoot macro to wide with very good quality possible. Not the best wide or macro solution but competent at both.

As we contend with multiple variables, we are doomed to live in a tangle of equipment. So much simpler if we limit what we do.

I have a dive buddy who takes only an Olympus TG and a dive light. He looks for the tiniest things. Simple system and actually pretty versatile. I do wish for a new version with a larger sensor and bit more in the way of manual controls.

I use a DPV pretty regularly, and I hate hauling it in and out of the water for mostly shore diving. I’ve mounted an Olympus TG, on top of which I’ve mounted a GoPro, plus strobes or video lights. Really unwieldy until you’re in the water, and then you have to repeat the process. Lately, I’ve just gone with an action camera and a single 10k lumen video light while using a DPV.

For stills and no DPV, it’s a subject matter decision for me. Macro or wide? Here in Hawaii where I live, shooting fisheye means you won’t have many chances at very skittish wildlife. I’ve lately come around to thinking that a kit lens and wet optics may be the best solution to shooting a variety of things.

I had a WWL-1 (original recipe), just wasn't a fan. Then again I was on M4/3 at the time and the WWL-C would have probably been a better choice. Wet lenses have been rather heavy and bulky from my perspective plus I want something wider when I shoot wide.

I'm currently using a DP100 and Tokina 10-17 then just shooting CFWA if anything smaller becomes available (it covers FF at 16mm) or the Nikonos 15mm if I think I'll get static shots with most distance. I'm tempted by an 8-15 plus 2.0 TC, especially if the any of the native E mount 8-15 coming out can take a TC. The higher quality over the Tokina should allow for more cropping.

All of my set-ups are pretty heavy in the water without adding additional bulk from flotation.

Ask 10 different photographers the same question and you’ll get 10 different answers.

All we can really respond with is what has worked best for ourselves.

First off, I predominately shore dive, but do not dive with a DPV, so can’t comment on that piece of the puzzle.

I have shot the following in order:

• Sony RX100IV

• Oly OM-D E-M1 MKII 

  • 12-40mm + 60mm macro + 8mm fisheye +7-14mm wide angle 

  • kit lens+WWL-1B + CMC-1

• Sony AC7

  • kit lens + WWL-1B + SMC-1 

• Canon R5

  • 14-35mm wide angle + 100mm macro + 8-15mm fisheye + 50mm + 20-50mm

I went the WWL-1B + CMC/SMC-1 route, but found it was awkward and fiddly underwater swapping lenses and trying to carry them on flips and arms.  I also didn’t enjoy using the CMC/SMC-1 on kit lenses, part of that would my level of skill and experience with a razor thin depths of field.  The WWL-1b was nice for close focus wide angle, but for me it just wasn’t something I enjoyed swapping…also, I didn’t enjoy burping the lens when offshore in deep water.

Fisheye and macro lenses are awesome, but specialized.

My favorite do everything, go-to lenses which I’ve used are these (in order):

• Canon RF20-50mm (Perfect compromise for my regular diving.  Close up dolphin passes.  Distant tiger sharks.  Good fish portraits.  Crop for nudibranchs.  I’ve been shooting it in a 230mm dome, but it should work nicely in a 180mm dome too.  I’ve also used it in a 140mm dome with surprisingly good results, but the edges would be too soft for some folks).

• Olympus 12-40mm (Great all around lens and sharp.  Not quite wide enough for me though.)

• Canon RF14-35mm (A little distorted at 14mm and not enough magnification at the 35mm end).

I practically only do technical dives with rebreathers and multiple stages, so: no DPV, no party 😉

Because of this I have always used an M43 system to limit bulk. I only shoot video and I have given up on having a kit that does everything.

Depending on the dives or my mood I choose:

• 14-42mm plus WWL-1 for mid-wide

• 14-42mm plus CMC-2 on a flip for details and macro

• 45mm plus CMC-2 on a flip for exclusive macro.

I rarely use the 12-35mm with a 6 inch port for general mid shots and I regret not using it more often. In his range is tack sharp and better than WWL but most of the time it's not wide enough.

Impossible to swap lenses on my dives. With the 6 inch port or the WWL I sometimes mount everything on the scooter otherwiseI clip my kit on a D-ring or I bring it on the left forearmlike a basket.

Never had a blurp on the WWL and never had bubble issues. From 40 meters down everything washes out. 😅

WWL-C is more compact than the WWL-1 units. Burping is not required once you are a few meters underwater. I have not burped it dozens of times and never noticed. Shallow or snorkeling is not advised however. And i would never plan to remove and swap out the WWL during a dive, the lenses in question just don't merit using diopters.

20mm (FF) is about as narrow of a lens as I would want on the wide end this is roughly where the Nikonos 15mm sits, I found 12mm on MFT was just too tight especially behind a flat port.

The 8-25 was a lens I considered on MFT but having to front load it wasn't appealing. I'm kind of avoiding N85 sized housings for this reason.

To be clear: I'm not camera shopping, mainly curious.

The other side of the coin is flotation and strobe arms. That seems to be at least half of the bulk on my systems. I'm having to run at least 800g of flotation or more.

Like the WWL-1 or WWL-C or not, this "scenario" is exactly why I have the NA-R50 and the WWL and CMC lenses and my new Maxi strobes. The rig can cover a huge range of opportunities and is relatively compact and travel friendly. No unreliable triggers, no ports, no multiple lenses and domes. No I do not switch from the WWL to a CMC in the water but it usually becomes quickly apparent that an area is more suited to one than the other.

2 hours ago, Grantmac said:

20mm (FF) is about as narrow of a lens as I would want on the wide end this is roughly where the Nikonos 15mm sits, I found 12mm on MFT was just too tight especially behind a flat port.

The 8-25 was a lens I considered on MFT but having to front load it wasn't appealing. I'm kind of avoiding N85 sized housings for this reason.

To be clear: I'm not camera shopping, mainly curious.

The other side of the coin is flotation and strobe arms. That seems to be at least half of the bulk on my systems. I'm having to run at least 800g of flotation or more.

Isotta housings get away from the N85 port restrctions, they use a 102mm dia port for m43.

Isotta is very appealing for a future camera I must admit. It appears that there are adapters to use Nauticam ports as well.

Of course there is always the A7CR/CII if housing size is the priority. But again it's the arms which seem to be a non-trivial part of the bulk for me. As is the 45 degree viewfinder, which I absolutely love but it adds a not insignificant depth to the overall package. Being able to fold a monitor onto the top of the housing might be more convenient?

8 hours ago, Grantmac said:

Isotta is very appealing for a future camera I must admit. It appears that there are adapters to use Nauticam ports as well.

Of course there is always the A7CR/CII if housing size is the priority. But again it's the arms which seem to be a non-trivial part of the bulk for me. As is the 45 degree viewfinder, which I absolutely love but it adds a not insignificant depth to the overall package. Being able to fold a monitor onto the top of the housing might be more convenient?

That is just it, you cannot have your cake and eat it too. Didn't that get somebodies head removed or was that "let them eat cake" or something! Anyways, to have a monitor or 45 degree VF and a dome, it is what it is.

By going to the larger Maxi strobes which are neutral I was able to remove the outer float arms and just have bare skeleton arms outboard. View finder/monitor, no. Run and gun or jump and go, all of that stuff added negates the premise.

In some future where I am exceedingly wealthy I will hire a porter to haul all my equipment about and when we see something photo worthy they will hand me my camera and assist. And serve as a model and set up off camera lighting. And if an OWT shows up hungry sacrifice themselves for benefit of my escape!