Grantmac

Wide rectilinear shots is probably where FF has the most advantage.

One disadvantage of smaller cameras, at least with Nauticam, is that the port size doesn't allow many common lenses to load from the rear. That said if I can get into a M4/3 housing which uses N120 or similar ports I might be very tempted. Although something like an A7CR isn't much bigger.

A yes mirrors, those pesky things. I'm adapting to Sony FF mirrorless.

Aluminum tape is durable and creates a decent reflective surface if applied carefully.

You might be surprised at how well the 60mm works on FF, at least as you get close to maximum magnification.

It was my go-to lens when I shot M4/3 and honestly I doubt anything else on any other system is quite as versatile. That said it was never particularly sharp and I personally am averse to using AI in any way.

It's noticeable for me at night. My Kraken light doesn't switch off although it's claimed to.

I have not used the MFO3, however the longer length should be easier to light than the 30mm. But that also come with a lot more bulk. The 30mm can also be used with the MWL-1 or Weefine equivalent which is a very versatile set-up (as can 12-50).

I just used a diopter on that lens rather than the "macro" mode, worked better for me.

Keep in mind you can lens correct a fisheye to rectilinear and there are wreck shots which really suit an uncorrected fisheye. Adding a TC to the 8-15 is popular for a reason as well. On the less expensive side I'm going to experiment with shooting a EF-S version Tokina 10-17 on my Sony FE, so far it gives full frame coverage from 16mm. I might even try a TC to see if I can get FF coverage on the wide side. It won't be poster worthy IQ, but lots of winning shots have been made with that lens. I will likely look at the Laowa AF 8-15 when it becomes available, especially if it can accommodate a TC.

At least one person likes the Tamron 17-28: https://interceptor121.com/2024/04/13/tamron-17-28-f2-8-for-underwater-photography-review/

Hard to beat a 8-15 behind the 140mm dome like Dave Hicks uses. If there is a lens combo that works for Nikon FF he's probably tried it. Both those use cases want an AF lens.

I'm just saying if we knew what housing, body and intended image projection we're dealing with it would drive the conversation into more productive directions.

Knowing which system the OP is starting from would probably help drive the conversation in productive directions. A recommendation for FE in a Marelux wouldn't do much for a M4/3 Nauticam user.

I've been wondering if a magnetic focus gear like Inon uses in their MRS system would be possible to adapt to other housings. Then you don't need a different gear when changing extensions or adding TCs. Just an idea I've had in the back of my mind.

I shoot rather a lot with Nikono manual wet lenses, it's rather a pain to get focus correct and they are literally built for it. I would not want to shoot a manual lens which wasn't a specific corrected wet optic especially behind a dome.

Paul, Do you use any specific focus tools such as peaking? Housing or port gear? Any suggestions for a newbie learning to pull focus?

A lot of snorkelers using the Weefine ring light, it's a pretty handy thing.

When I went there was +40m vis and still only saw two hammers distant, talking with experienced divers it's very dependent on the tides. I previously dove with action cam, was planning full rig this time.

How are the ball mounts held on?

If you went Sony FF, like an A7Cii, you have access to using Nikonos manual lenses. Which are simultaneously the most frustrating and rewarding lenses I've got. They are also tiny.

If that 8-15 can take a TC that would be amazing. Unless it's $3k

It depends for me. I find BBF causes some hand fatigue unless I'm shooting right on the bottom.

For snorkeling without strobes I run auto ISO and try for 1/125 with F8 at a minimum.

Where are you shopping in Japan? I might have a chance at a last minute trip to Mikomoto in a few weeks.