Grantmac

I just used a diopter on that lens rather than the "macro" mode, worked better for me.

Keep in mind you can lens correct a fisheye to rectilinear and there are wreck shots which really suit an uncorrected fisheye. Adding a TC to the 8-15 is popular for a reason as well. On the less expensive side I'm going to experiment with shooting a EF-S version Tokina 10-17 on my Sony FE, so far it gives full frame coverage from 16mm. I might even try a TC to see if I can get FF coverage on the wide side. It won't be poster worthy IQ, but lots of winning shots have been made with that lens. I will likely look at the Laowa AF 8-15 when it becomes available, especially if it can accommodate a TC.

At least one person likes the Tamron 17-28: https://interceptor121.com/2024/04/13/tamron-17-28-f2-8-for-underwater-photography-review/

Hard to beat a 8-15 behind the 140mm dome like Dave Hicks uses. If there is a lens combo that works for Nikon FF he's probably tried it. Both those use cases want an AF lens.

I'm just saying if we knew what housing, body and intended image projection we're dealing with it would drive the conversation into more productive directions.

Knowing which system the OP is starting from would probably help drive the conversation in productive directions. A recommendation for FE in a Marelux wouldn't do much for a M4/3 Nauticam user.

I've been wondering if a magnetic focus gear like Inon uses in their MRS system would be possible to adapt to other housings. Then you don't need a different gear when changing extensions or adding TCs. Just an idea I've had in the back of my mind.

I shoot rather a lot with Nikono manual wet lenses, it's rather a pain to get focus correct and they are literally built for it. I would not want to shoot a manual lens which wasn't a specific corrected wet optic especially behind a dome.

Paul, Do you use any specific focus tools such as peaking? Housing or port gear? Any suggestions for a newbie learning to pull focus?

A lot of snorkelers using the Weefine ring light, it's a pretty handy thing.

When I went there was +40m vis and still only saw two hammers distant, talking with experienced divers it's very dependent on the tides. I previously dove with action cam, was planning full rig this time.

How are the ball mounts held on?

If you went Sony FF, like an A7Cii, you have access to using Nikonos manual lenses. Which are simultaneously the most frustrating and rewarding lenses I've got. They are also tiny.

If that 8-15 can take a TC that would be amazing. Unless it's $3k

It depends for me. I find BBF causes some hand fatigue unless I'm shooting right on the bottom.

For snorkeling without strobes I run auto ISO and try for 1/125 with F8 at a minimum.

Where are you shopping in Japan? I might have a chance at a last minute trip to Mikomoto in a few weeks.

It would be interesting to have a flip open cover like on a rifle scope.

Last year I went from an EM1ii (m43) to an A7RIII (FF) and looking back I regret it somewhat. Although it was fairly cost neutral being both somewhat older systems the money would have been better spent on getting a Canon 8-15 and required accessories, since I'm now spending that anyway but likely with the Sony 2x TC and required extension on top.

I know someone who is quite happy with his lower tier Letonpower 15000lm lights. Definitely not constant output or high CRI but the price was right for a casual videographer.

I'm a huge fan of used shopping, I have gone through a variety of setups to find what I like (and in one case what I shouldn't have sold). But I'd draw the line at nearly 20 year old systems, especially ones which aren't coming with exactly the lenses I wanted.

As someone currently considering the 8-15 Canon this is definitely very on my mind. However I did just pickup a Zen dp100 for Tokina at a good price and I'll grab a Tokina in the meantime. Given how poor our vis usually is I doubt I will be limited in IQ and from what I've read the Tokina offers some interesting crop opportunities on FF.

15-30 AF fisheye would be a dream lens underwater. It's a wonder one of the housing manufacturers hasn't had one one made in an easily adaptable format.

Fish floats are extremely easy for me to get. Locals use them for cameras with some success. We've also done some 3D printed floats but that is heavier for a given buoyancy. Personally I'd like to get flotation under my camera to make tilted shots less effort. Having all my buoyancy on the strobe arms is a pain.

I'd not spend the money on an Inon viewfinder, the Nauticam units are far better. You can use the older DSLR style on most mirror less with just a little corner distortion.