Grantmac

10-17 Tokina, just get close and creative for the small stuff.

Run it in FF mode.

EF-S 60mm macro will cover a FF sensor at maximum magnification.

If the lock is sticky I'd recommend rotating the ports slightly, mine doesn't want to lock or unlock if they are fully rotated together but instead need to be slightly backed off.

I am not particularly enamored of the categories since they seem to cater to tropical locations, but that seems to be the focus here. Likewise I'd rather allow not fixing of composition errors such as removing backscatter but that's just me. Perhaps I just dislike post-processing and would rather take better pictures?

Use of any AI should not be allowed. Including masking.

I missed that, was listening to the review with half my brain.

Looks like the aperture will require a gear of some sort

Isotta is very appealing for a future camera I must admit. It appears that there are adapters to use Nauticam ports as well. Of course there is always the A7CR/CII if housing size is the priority. But again it's the arms which seem to be a non-trivial part of the bulk for me. As is the 45 degree viewfinder, which I absolutely love but it adds a not insignificant depth to the overall package. Being able to fold a monitor onto the top of the housing might be more convenient?

20mm (FF) is about as narrow of a lens as I would want on the wide end this is roughly where the Nikonos 15mm sits, I found 12mm on MFT was just too tight especially behind a flat port. The 8-25 was a lens I considered on MFT but having to front load it wasn't appealing. I'm kind of avoiding N85 sized housings for this reason. To be clear: I'm not camera shopping, mainly curious. The other side of the coin is flotation and strobe arms. That seems to be at least half of the bulk on my systems. I'm having to run at least 800g of flotation or more.

I had a WWL-1 (original recipe), just wasn't a fan. Then again I was on M4/3 at the time and the WWL-C would have probably been a better choice. Wet lenses have been rather heavy and bulky from my perspective plus I want something wider when I shoot wide. I'm currently using a DP100 and Tokina 10-17 then just shooting CFWA if anything smaller becomes available (it covers FF at 16mm) or the Nikonos 15mm if I think I'll get static shots with most distance. I'm tempted by an 8-15 plus 2.0 TC, especially if the any of the native E mount 8-15 coming out can take a TC. The higher quality over the Tokina should allow for more cropping. All of my set-ups are pretty heavy in the water without adding additional bulk from flotation.

I dive in BC where we have both inconsistent visibility and also a very wide variety of subjects on any given dive (Nudibranches to GPOs to Sealions). I also use a DPV and do technical diving which makes dealing with a bulky system with large strobe arms, wet lenses etc a bigger challenge. I enjoy the process of making pictures with something that offers more control than a compact/GoPro but that comes with compromises in terms of overall system size. My question is how do you build the system you take on every dive, especially the ones where you don't know exactly what you're going to find (if anything)?

Less distortion should require a larger dome than a traditional fisheye correct?

Those were all shot with the 20-200mm behind a 180mm dome? I miss the ability of my m4/3 12-50mm as a generalist lens for photos of opportunity. Being able to find something similar for Sony FF is very appealing.

Honestly from what I've read the D850 can do still images with all but the newest mirrorless. Plus I'm betting you can find a housing for a decent price if you keep your eyes open. Many people are still using adapted lenses from that era.

Particulate greatly reduces how much light you can throw at the subject and the distance you can throw it from before all you are illuminating is the water.

Try shooting a wreck in low light with suspended particulate using off camera constant light sources and you'll see why a bigger sensor is a benefit.

Wide rectilinear shots is probably where FF has the most advantage.

One disadvantage of smaller cameras, at least with Nauticam, is that the port size doesn't allow many common lenses to load from the rear. That said if I can get into a M4/3 housing which uses N120 or similar ports I might be very tempted. Although something like an A7CR isn't much bigger.

A yes mirrors, those pesky things. I'm adapting to Sony FF mirrorless.

Aluminum tape is durable and creates a decent reflective surface if applied carefully.

You might be surprised at how well the 60mm works on FF, at least as you get close to maximum magnification.

It was my go-to lens when I shot M4/3 and honestly I doubt anything else on any other system is quite as versatile. That said it was never particularly sharp and I personally am averse to using AI in any way.

It's noticeable for me at night. My Kraken light doesn't switch off although it's claimed to.

I have not used the MFO3, however the longer length should be easier to light than the 30mm. But that also come with a lot more bulk. The 30mm can also be used with the MWL-1 or Weefine equivalent which is a very versatile set-up (as can 12-50).