Tobyone

After all the calculations, especially considering the glass in front of sensor, I think I am abandoning this project. I would probably have to machine at least 3 mm off to get close to infinity focus, leaving a too thin of a lip. Also considering the Fuji crop factor,I would not be getting the moderate(underwater)wide angle option the 15mm presents. I will just use for macro with the 80mm and maybe see how the 15 does with closeups. Thanks for everyones input.

I measured the Nikonos 2 flange which is 32.18 mm.from the lens mount base to the film plate. Being careful not to push the spring plate tensioners back. I measured the distance from the mounted Nikonos adapter to the Fuji XT-3 front of sensor protection glass(There is no bayer filter in Fuji) in the Nautical housing. The distance was 31mm. I have yet to get a depth of this glass to the sensor. Could be .5-2 mm in thickness. So it look like I can shave 1.5 mm and get the lens to focus near infinity.I will test by sliding back the camera on the plate in the housing top side. I have an 80 mm Nikonos Lens to test focus. Before I start removing metal form the adapter.

Thanks Issac, I will do some calculations and see if I can match the two cameras sensor distances

The difference between the Fuji Mount and the Sony E is .3mm. 18 on the Sony, 17.7 on Fuji. Nikonos focal flange is 28mm. If the adapter to sensor distance is the same from the Sony to the Fuji, I would have to shave .3mm. I do not have the Sony camera and housing available to measure. Reluctant to put a mic directly on the Fuji sensor to measure.

Does anyone have the distance for the A7 camera flange to the port seat on the NA-A7 housing. I am trying to convert the NA-A7 Nikonos adapter for the Fuji Nauticam housing. I need to figure how much I need to reduce the flange distance of the Adaprter. The lens work but I need to reduce the flange distance to get it to focus at infinity. It will focus with the adapter but acts like an extension.

Same posting on wet pixel. Different name. ???

I use FreeCad to design my gears. It has a gear evoluter action. You just plug in MOD,# of teeth. and it sketches a gear. One has to play with the perimeters to get thew gear to perfection.

Hellhole , you pre focus. At f 8-11 you have a great depth of field. I focus at about 10-15 ft using peaking. I have sharp focus from about 1 ft from the dome to the edge of visibility.

My favorite wide set up is the Loawa 9mm on aps Fuji. When you have fast action you don't want to complicate with focal length, pick a FOV and go with it. Shooting Whale Sharks or Sailfish. At f5.6- 11 you can zone focus. Here is a link to some photos :

Check out Richard Wong review. Corners sharpen up at 8 and 11. Vignetting seems to be the main issue with this lens.

Laowa's upcoming 10 mm will have a FOV over(slightly) 130 degrees on a full frame. The lens is offered in auto focus with a Sony E-mount and Nikon z. There is a manual focus version for the Canon RF and L mount. This is a rectilinear lens priced at $799 US. Chest Frost's review on YouTube :

Just got my copy from Amazon $28 for hardcover. Excellent photos from a group of master u/w photographers. I personally do not like the way credits are in the back of book, they should be with the photos. Also sans of technical info. I will probably look for a month and pass it on.

Looks real good. Like how you shape string in the ID script.

I am interested in buying this Port . PM me with the info to pay via PayPal.